Exhausted, I stood in front of the heavy wooden door holding the brass key the little old Italian mama in the café a few doors away had just handed me. Her grey hair was pulled back in a severe bun at the nape of her neck and she was wearing a loose black sack-like dress, cinched in a little at the waist by her blue and white striped apron. Her impatience at having to give directions to me was palpable, her floured hand stopped rolling rounded gnocchi parcels for a mere second to point out the door and to the right. And now here I was, standing outside the pensione that would be my home for the next three months.
Pushing open the door with my shoulder as I dragged my suitcase awkwardly behind me, I felt my shoulders drop as the spiral staircase came into view. I'd just dragged this case, with its broken wheel, all the way through the cobbled Florentine streets and piazzas from the train station. Now I was going to have to climb three flights of marble stairs to get to my room. So be it: I had always wanted the complete Italian experience, and modern elevators didn't fit that ideal.
Each grey marble step was worn in the middle, hundreds of shoes treading it and smoothing the stone. I soon forgot about my tiredness and started drinking in the scene: wrought iron balustrade spiralling upwards, edged by terracotta, forest green, Wedgwood blue and mustard yellow ceramic tiles to waist height along the walls. Above this border was a faded fresco that hinted at the sites the seasoned building had seen via generations of travellers.