The alarm clock buzzed at 4am.
Paul groaned as he reached over and shut it off, then sat up suddenly in bed, remembering why he'd set the alarm so early. Today was the day! He'd been looking forward to this hike for months, since he first read about Fairy Falls on a website dedicated to Washington waterfalls.
Paul was 26 years old, strong and fit, a seasonal park ranger at Mount Rainier National Park for four years now, ever since graduating from college, and he'd hiked almost all of the established trails already. He'd climbed to the summit once and up to both high camps twice. All that was left was to explore the places with no trails, which, in a 200,000 acre park, were vast.
Fairy Falls caught his imagination as soon as he read about it. The highest waterfall in the park, descending seven hundred feet in three stages, but several miles cross-country to get to it, hiking up a rugged canyon choked with vine maple: it sounded like an great challenge!
He'd have put on his pack and gone immediately, if hadn't been December, when the high country was buried under the first layers of Rainier's legendary 56 feet of winter snowfall. Paul knew from years of experience that it would be July before the snow melted. Seven months to plan and anticipate.
And now, at last, it was mid July, his first free weekend after the Independence Day holiday. His job kept him busy on everyone else's weekends, of course, when all of Washington state and half of California seemed to converge on the park's trails. His own days off were Tuesday and Wednesday, much quieter—not that he was likely to run into anyone where he was going! He smiled to himself, anticipating the blissful solitude after the chaos of talking to crowds of visitors all week.
The pack was already ready to go, sitting by the front door fully loaded with several quarts of water, peanut butter sandwiches, dried fruit, maps, a GPS unit, and spare batteries. Paul splashed some water on his face in the bathroom, pulled on a t-shirt and shorts, laced up his sturdy hiking boots, grabbed an apple and a banana out of the basket on the counter, and was out the door by 4:12.
It was a 45-minute drive to the pullout where Stevens Creek crossed under the park road, which would put him there about half an hour before sunrise, just as the dawn was getting bright enough to see by. From there, it might take another four hours to get to the falls, depending on how dense the vegetation was in the canyon, and how many lingering patches of snow there might be.
As he pulled out from his apartment, he turned the radio on to get an update on the day's weather forecast. His timing was good; the announcer was just saying "---and so it's likely to be the warmest day of the year so far, with temperatures around 80 degrees and not a cloud in the sky." Of course, that would be Seattle; up at elevation it would be cooler, but Paul knew that he would work up a sweat climbing through the canyon. "It's perfect weather for National Nude Day!" the weather man continued. "Just be sure to wear lots of sunscreen. Back to you, Sheila."
"Huh," Paul thought, "National Nude Day, who knew?" He turned off the radio and grinned. "I never carry a swimsuit in the wilderness anyway."
Diane rolled over restlessly in her sleeping bag, glancing for the hundredth time, it seemed, at her cell phone. 4:24 am. God damn it. Still more than an hour till sunrise.
She'd hardly slept a wink all night, too excited about her plans for the day. In fact, she'd been planning this trek for weeks, poring over topographic maps online, scouting terrain on Google Earth, scouring the Internet for previous accounts and photographs. It looked like the last up-close photograph of Fairy Falls that existed was taken all the way back in 1907, a black and white image now in the archives of the University of Washington that showed two tiny female figures with alpenstocks standing on the rocks at the base of a massive waterfall.
This was going to be perfect for her Instagram account, dedicated to remote and pristine waterfalls.
And it was pure serendipity that the best time for taking a vacation from work was over the 14th of July! Diane had stumbled across National Nude Day several years ago when she heard some fellow students at U-Dub joking about it. She joined in their laughter, but the idea intrigued her. A day for being nude! It wasn't like she was a nudist or anything, but she'd always been curious about people who went to nude beaches and nudist parks. What better day to try it out, when you could always laugh it off, if you were caught, as just being "National Nude Day?" That summer she'd planned a trip up into the mountains to a remote lake, where she'd gone skinny dipping for the first time. She'd loved the experience, and resolved to make it an annual event, one that she now looked forward to every year.
Who knows, maybe she'd set up her camera and get a picture of herself naked at the base of the falls! She thought again of the picture of the women in long wool dresses in the archives of the library. "You've come a long way, baby," she thought.
Now it was the middle of the night at Cougar Rock Campground and she couldn't sleep. She sighed. Might as well get up and get moving. It would be daylight soon. She shrugged off the sleeping bag and shivered as the cold morning air raised goosebumps on her bare skin. Hopefully it would warm up soon, too. She quickly pulled on a pair of sweats, a sports bra and sweatshirt, and a stocking cap, then some thick socks and her hiking shoes.
Unzipping her tent, she fired up the propane stove on her picnic table and heated a small pot of water for hot cocoa. She saved some for a package of oatmeal, too, and sat on the table with her feet on the bench, eating her breakfast. From her campsite she could see the top of Eagle Peak, still untouched by the morning light; in the distance, the sound of the Nisqually River echoed off the cliffs, making harmonies with the trill of varied thrushes whistling in the treetops.
Breakfast finished, she stowed her trash, rinsed her dishes, and zipped up the tent. Her pack, loaded with snacks, lighter clothes, and camera gear, was already in the car. Let's do this, she thought. The time was 4:56.
"This is going to take some work," Paul said out loud. He'd only been hiking for about fifteen minutes, but it was already clear that he wasn't going to be making progress very quickly. Stevens Creek bubbled along merrily in the bottom of the canyon, but pressed in close on either side of it were the densest thickets of vine maple he had ever seen, their thin branches overlapping and intertwining as they competed with each other to reach the sunlight. Above them, steep rocky slopes stretched up toward the sky, too steep for anyone who wasn't a mountain goat.
Already the sweat was beading on his brow and his shirt stuck to his back under the pack. Leaves and pieces of twig matted his hair. "There's got to be an easier way," he thought, taking a swig of water from one of his bottles and assessing the options. It didn't look like the vegetation would thin out any time soon. The only alternative, really, was to hike in the creek.
But once the boots are wet, they'll be wet the rest of the day, he thought. On the other hand, it's going to be a warm one. He glanced up at the Mountain, just barely visible above the canyon in the far distance, where sunlight was now lighting the summit glaciers ablaze with amber color. It would be a while, he knew, before that light reached him in the canyon, and the water, fed by snowmelt, would be cold. But he was working up a sweat.
"It's the only way," he thought, shrugging.
The water was indeed cold! For a moment, Paul gasped and stood frozen by the shock of it as the stream flowed over the tops of his boots and soaked through his socks. His feet tingled and a shiver ran up his spine. He stood still for a long moment, feeling the cold, assessing whether he could stand to stay in the water. But the shock ebbed as his feet adjusted to the temperature, and as he began moving up the creek it was clear that, as long as he moved cautiously through the loose rocks and stayed out of the deeper parts of the stream, this was going to be a great improvement over the labyrinth of maples.
In fact, he realized, the biggest challenge was going to be keeping the rest of his clothes dry. The creek flowed so rapidly down through the canyon that it splashed aggressively against his shins, soaking the hem of his shorts. Paul wrinkled his nose in frustration, then laughed suddenly as a thought came to him. "Fuck," he thought, "it's National Nude Day, and I'm out in the middle of the wilderness. What the hell do I even need shorts for?" He laughed again, hearing the river laugh back, as he maneuvered to a large rock in the middle of the stream. Removing his pack, he set it beside him, then in one movement slid his shorts down and over his boots. He unzipped a pouch on the front of the pack and stuffed his shorts inside. He wore no underwear.
For a moment he considered removing his shirt as well, but the morning was still cool. "I'll risk my shirt getting wet for now," he thought. "There will be time to fully celebrate Nude Day later."