There's a place in Spain where you can walk all day and never see another human being. Where your only companions are the snake gliding through the brush, the ibex clinging to the cliff, the eagle soaring overhead.
The sound of this place is the soft wind as it mourns an abandoned farmstead or a shrine to a long-dead pilgrim.
Iago Blas, obit. 1458.
The landscape is drawn in harsh contours, unsoftened by any thickness of the air. The moisture has been sucked out of it by a sun so greedy that it's leeched the colour from the rocks and plants.
It's a hard land, and lonely. The rocks beneath your feet are the very bones of the mountains. It's a bleak place, where the spirits of nature feel very close.
It was still early when I set out on this particular day. I'd spent the night at a small farm perched midway up a slope, with stone walls so thick I had to lean out of the window to get any signal on my phone. The full moon painted the fields below a glowing silver and softened the hard lines of the day.
I made my farewells to my landlady, responding to the words I recognised in her regular salvos of speech and nodding and smiling through the rest. Her husband's tractor stood at the edge of a tiny field, perched at an impossible angle on the slope, but the man himself was nowhere in sight. I tried to be polite and keep my gaze away from the valley of cleavage that was on display, but I promised myself to revisit the memory later.
Stuffing the lunch she'd prepared for me in my pack and waving one last time -- and enjoying the movement as she waved back -- I stepped onto a narrow path uphill. It led me over the crest, then down into a gorge. The birds that populated the farm and its fields soon fell silent in the morning's heat, and I left the small shrine of civilisation behind as I put one foot in front of the other, again and again and again, and let my mind wander.
Besides the occasional crunch of gravel under my feet and the low murmur of the stream further below, all I heard was silence. It was like a constant whisper in my ear, growing louder, somehow, as the sounds of the water also grew bolder. Pale yellow cliffs rose up on either side, three or four times my own height, trapping me and my small presence in the gorge with the running water.
By midmorning I'd reached the point where the path crossed the stream. Ancient stones, of a bluey-grey that seemed alien to these pale mountains, lay across the water, a smear of darkness in the sun-bleached landscape.
The stream had come awake with the climbing sun. It sang and chortled its way over its rocky bed, hemmed in by steep sides above and below me. Here and there a stunted tree or bush clung to the stone. Far off in the distance, a dark spot moved in lazy circles against the full blue of the sky. An eagle. For a while I watched it: king of the morning's warm air.
Perhaps watching that great bird fed a desire for adventure in me. A need to step off the path and find my own way, if only for a little while. Jealousy? Frustration at the shackles of the ordinary? A yearning to find something, somewhere, that was mine and mine alone?
Whatever it was, the idea of crossing this bridge, of following the trail from marker to marker, made me obstinate. Just for a short while I wasn't willing to be led by anyone or anything except my own feet.
And so I turned away from the bridge. The face of the cliff was steep, but not smooth, and I set first one foot, then the other, on the rocky slope and followed it upstream. Below me, the stream chuckled, either in encouragement or in amusement at my foolishness.
It was hard to disagree. The footing was uneven, with only an uncertain ridge between rock and ravine. More than once I had to steady myself suddenly when a stone slipped away beneath my shoe. For stretches, I moved sideways, trying to wrap my arms around the cliff face in a giant hug.
Below me the stream grew steadily louder, and nearer. Above, when I tore my gaze away from the water beneath, the sky was a strip of hard blue, with the sun peering anxiously over the gorge's edge. Once I spotted an eagle, the same one as before or another, I couldn't tell. I wondered whether it was there to guide me, or whether it was waiting for me to fall to my death.
Slowly, gradually, the angle of the slope became softer. The way forward rose steadily, with the stream alongside, and the sky came closer. Large rocks formed the bed of the gorge, and the water glided over them and danced in pools in between.
As the scene became more tranquil, the sun joined me in the gorge. Its light softened the sky and stroked the water, teasing it and playing with the shadows like it was tickling the stream and making it gurgle like a small child.
Eventually my way appeared blocked by a group of vast boulders. Their broad shoulders blocked the gorge from side to side, as if to prevent anyone from proceeding. The stream fell enticingly over them, laughing openly now. Challenging me to continue, daring me to find a way past the giants.
It wasn't easy, but I managed. I left my pack behind and hauled myself up, heaving and straining, until at last I lay gasping on the hard, hot stone. A foot from my face the stream slipped by innocently. Sweating, breathing heavily, I clambered to my knees and found myself in paradise.
Dappled sunlight stroked a shimmering black mirror. On three sides, pale rock formed a bowl, rising upwards, lush with vegetation: dark-leaved creepers with bright flowers that gave off a heady aroma in the warm air. Birds chattered among the leaves, boasting of their hiding places.
The pool was fed by a stream that splashed down from perhaps twice my height. Droplets sprang free, sparkling like diamonds before being lost below.
The water seemed to sleep here, soothed by the sun's caress before it began its long journey down the gorge and beyond.
After my hot and nervous trek, it was a scene to cool the soul. Realising how thirsty I was, and remembering that my flask was in the pack I'd left below, I leaned forward and scooped up a handful of water.
Can water smell sweet? This did. A clear freshness crept up my nostrils and cleared my mind. I took a sip. Then another.
Nothing I'd ever tasted matched the experience. Even now, I'm unable to describe it, except to say that it cooled and soothed both body and mind.
I closed my eyes and drank again. The sun shone red through my eyelids. My ears filled with birdsong, a hint of breeze in the creepers, and over it all the falling water before me and behind.
I sat there for a long time. The pains and niggles and worries of life seemed to fade into the distance, washed away by the pool's water. I knew they'd return, but for now, as long as I remained where I was, they were kept at bay.
At last, tempted by the thought of another drink, I opened my eyes. What I saw made me forget my thirst, forget everything but what was before me.
A woman's head had appeared above the surface of the pool, half a dozen yards away. Her eyes mirrored its gleaming black surface, and when they met mine it was as if I was falling into a deep, cool depth.
Wet black hair was plastered to her skull, framing a wide brow and a face that was both beautiful and strange. Those dark eyes dominated, set above high cheekbones separated by a straight nose. Full lips were curled in a smile that seemed to shift from seductive to shy to predatory without moving.
I couldn't have spoken if I'd known what to say. In the moment she was the most beautiful woman I'd ever seen -- the most beautiful sight to fill my eyes, ever. Without exaggeration, it was only when I felt an aching pain in my chest that I remembered to breathe.
The eyes were gazing at me in something between amusement and interest. How long we stood there I don't know. My breath returned, and I managed a smile, but neither of us spoke.
After an eternity she rose further from the water. Slowly, ever so slowly, so that I could follow every drop as it slid and slithered from the smooth skin of her neck, her shoulders, her chest. The sunlight, my ally now, made them gleam on her caramel nakedness like diamonds adorning the most expensive of gowns.
Anticipation rose within me as the swell of her breasts came into view. My breath caught again as I waited for them, as I fought the disbelief that this otherworldly woman would expose herself to me. Yet as more soft, taut flesh appeared from below the surface it seemed that was what was going to happen.
I felt myself swelling up in time with her. I didn't care. It felt unreal.
Slowly, suddenly, the pool relinquished its hold on her breasts and they were fully revealed. They were as perfect as her face. Firm, full, enticing, jutting forward from her chest as if they were straining at a leash. The water below and the sun above seemed to caress them, stroke them, squeeze them even. I felt a twitch in my fingers.
I was rock hard by now, and I managed to get my feet beneath me and stand. Her eyes followed me up, then they slid back down to where I knew my shaft was pressing against the material of my shorts.
Her smile turned predatory again, and she spoke.
Her voice was sunlight reflected in the stream rushing over rocks. It was the gentle breeze that blew ripples across the surface of the pool. It was the warm water on top of the cooler water beneath.
It danced with a rhythm that was as sexy as it was natural. Not the throbbing beat of Latin music, but the ebb and flow of the tides, the waxing and waning of the moon, the writhing of two bodies making love.
I didn't recognise the words -- not Spanish -- but her meaning was clear. "Come on in, the water's lovely."