Trying to recount this story
really
messes with the grammar of the English language.
*
Wow, what a ride. It all started about six months ago, and it is only now that I am able to spend the time to recount the story. My wife, Julie, and I were on a mum & dad only holiday for two weeks. We had the most amazing time in Vietnam & Laos. The children stayed home, attending school and staying nights with both sets of grandparents. It had been several years since we'd done a holiday together, and as the children are both in high school this was by far the longest time Julie had been away from the children since they were born.
We essentially did a big clockwise circuit from Hanoi, down through Vietnam to Ho Chi Minh City, across the border to Laos then north and back Hanoi. We travelled as much to the out of the way places as possible to really experience this absolutely breathtaking part of the world. We really got into the people and culture as much as possible. At times we were way out of our depth with the language, and experienced some really bizarre things - especially in the food department. Fortunately we are both quite open to trying new & different things. During the trip we stayed in all sorts of accommodation from 5 star opulent luxury, to very basic "guest houses" which were little more than grass huts way up in the mountains in areas not frequented by tourists.
Late on the second last day of the trip, we were on the last leg back into Hanoi to catch the flight home to Australia, the following afternoon. We were way off the beaten track well up in the mountains staying in a very small town not frequented by tourists. We'd visited many markets throughout the trip, and have many tails to tell of those experiences alone. This particular market caught us by complete surprise. To look at it was just like all the others, yet had a completely different atmosphere. I couldn't put my finger on it at the time, and even now I struggle to make any sense of it. For a start the wares all seemed much older, and strikingly more authentic. I'd collected some really beautiful pieces already on the trip, and was starting to wonder how we were going to get it all home.
Julie has a real jewellery fetish, especially for something really different. Anyway the booths at this market were ancient, with oil lamps. Electric lighting was almost non-existent, as were all electrical appliances come to think of it. There were practically no other Europeans at all in this part of the world. The air was thick with a menagerie of aromas produced from the many stalls selling cooked food for the evening meal. Here in the tropics there isn't much twilight, and it had gotten dark pretty quickly. We were just wondering around the area eating anything that looked interesting, it all smelt great. We were wondering how we were going to survive on the Western cuisine once we got home.
Julie wondered into this booth and that, each time greeted enthusiastically by the merchant. They couldn't speak much English, and as through most of the out of the way places on this trip, the bartering was performed with chalk and blackboards (or a calculator at times) with the vendor and purchaser taking turns to write down a price until an agreement was reached. The Aussie dollar was very strong compared to the Dong, and we were able to pick up any manner of trinket for just a few dollars. These markets seemed a little more expensive than all the others, but we simply put it down to the possible authenticity of the items for sale. Still they were quite reasonably priced when using western currency.
It was one particular booth, right at the edge on the maze of streets that really caught Julie's interest. I would get to the point where I would just wait outside with our back packs while Julie would briefly wonder inside. I stood outside this booth for a while then wondered a couple of booths down to check out the food on offer. I bought some "meat on a stick" and stood by waiting for Julie. There was still no sign of her, so I wondered inside to see what the holdup was. Through the front entrance, which was just a tent like all the others, there was a left hand turn that went through the door to a building. I kept going, smiling keenly to the old lady who sat at the door greeting me warmly. The place was full of tables completely covered with all manner of artefacts. Some small, some large, wooden, stone, porcelain, but mostly metal -- bronze.
I was immediately captured by the items on display, and examined many items very closely under the glow of the few oil lamps operating in the room. I went up a flight of dimly lit stairs where I found Julie completely engrossed in a table of rings. They were absolutely beautiful hand crafted bronze, gold, silver, etc. She would reach right up to the back of the table, pick up various pieces look at them for a while, then place them back exactly how she had found them. There was a very old gentleman sitting on a stool behind the table, and each time Julie examined an item he would say a barely understandable "welly nic, yu by, yu by". Apart from Julie, the old man and I there was no one else in the upstairs room and a few tables of wares with an empty stool behind each one.
When Julie moved onto the next table the old man simply stood and walked around the back to sit on the stool at that one -- all very amusing. This table was right in the very dimly lit corner of the room. At first glance it looked just like any other table in the building. There were some small hand carved wooden boxes at the back of the table, some were very intricate while others were simple, but most of them quite dark with age. Some boxes had the lid open or removed and others were shut with boxes stacked up on top of them. The reaction from the old man changed when Julie started reaching to the boxes at the very back, amongst the old Buddas, carvings and things. A strange look came over his face, not quite of fear - more of apprehension. He would make a strange, guttural sound as each box was opened and the contents examined by Julie.
Julie called me over, and inside the boxes were different pieces of jewellery, necklaces, bracelets and rings. She found the reaction from the old man to be somewhat intriguing, bordering on disturbing. But Julie's reaction was nothing but desire and admiration. The jewellery was exquisite. She was getting that look in her eye, the one I knew all too well. She reached over the table moved a few items out of the way and picked up a small, very dark simple looking box that had some ancient symbols carved on it. The old man just sat there with a stone look on his face, not making a sound and not moving. Julie carefully opened the lid and inside was a silk pouch. She placed the box gently on the table in front of her, and untied the simple knot on the string of the pouch. She delicately reached into the pouch with slender fingers and pulled out a gorgeous little ring. She moved to the side to get a closer look at it under the oil lamp suspended from the ceiling, and let out a barely audible gasp.
She handled the ring as expertly as any professional aficionado. She still had the pouch in her hand and reached inside again and pulled out a similar yet larger ring, took one look at it, let out another gasp and handed it to me. Now I am an admirer of all things of beauty, and this ring even impressed me. It was clearly larger than the first, and it didn't take me long to work out that the rings were a matching pair -- one for him and one for her. I kept glancing at the old man who was now shifting nervously on the stool, no longer making any eye contact with us. Julie asked him how much and he just ignored her. She moved a bit to be in the direction he was looking and asked again very quietly one of the few simple phrases of Lao that we had learnt -- "thao dai". He whispered something we could barely hear, let alone understand. Julie looked around the room and walked across the room and grabbed a small blackboard and rag that was on one of the other tables.
She returned and handed it to the old man, who reluctantly took it from her. He rubbed out the numbers that were on there from a previous sale, and slowly wrote 3M, which we had learnt meant 3million Kip -- or about 400 Australian Dollars. I raised my eyebrows and Julie just smiled, took the board and rag, and wrote 1M. He waved his hands and shook his head saying "Baw, Baw" -- no no. This was not the reaction either of us expected, Julie pushed the board towards him, and he wrote 2.8 - $380AUD. Julie was now handling both the rings with that look in her eye. I knew this was going to end with us having a beautiful pair of matching rings, and the single largest transaction of the whole trip. Even a night in the 5 star hotel hadn't cost this much.
I just said "It's completely up to you Julie, they are really beautiful." She put the smaller one on one of her fingers and placed the larger on one of mine, they fitted perfectly. So a few moments later she nodded at a negotiated price of a little over $350. The old man yelled out over his shoulder and a young girl in her late teens suddenly appeared out of nowhere. She came over and had a brief exchange with the old merchant, while looking us up and down. She grunted a few times and said in very hard to understand broken English and pointing at both of us, "yu bi carlful, welly welly carlful. Yu ray down to kiss, yu ray down to kiss with ling on and off". Julie and I just looked at each other, not understanding what she meant. We persevered, but she just kept repeating herself. We took a while but worked out what we thought she was saying and repeated it to her, even though it made no sense to us. "We lie down and kiss with these?"
"Yes, Yes, Yes -- on off on off" she kept nodding. Julie put the rings back into the pouch and then the box and closed the lid. The old man placed the box on a pile of brown paper and wrapped the box in front of us as Julie held out the cash. He said nothing as the transaction completed. Julie said "Khawp Jai -- Sohk Dee Der" -- thankyou and goodbye, and we walked slowly down the stairs and out onto the street. I was in a bit of a daze. We wondered around aimlessly for about an hour longer without significant incident, and eventually got our bearings and headed back to our simple accommodation. We were absolutely worn out as we were at the end of every day on this trip. While I was in the bathroom, Julie had packed our few purchases of the day into one of her bags in preparation of the trip out in the morning.