Trying to recount this story
really
messes with the grammar of the English language.
*
Wow, what a ride. It all started about six months ago, and it is only now that I am able to spend the time to recount the story. My wife, Julie, and I were on a mum & dad only holiday for two weeks. We had the most amazing time in Vietnam & Laos. The children stayed home, attending school and staying nights with both sets of grandparents. It had been several years since we'd done a holiday together, and as the children are both in high school this was by far the longest time Julie had been away from the children since they were born.
We essentially did a big clockwise circuit from Hanoi, down through Vietnam to Ho Chi Minh City, across the border to Laos then north and back Hanoi. We travelled as much to the out of the way places as possible to really experience this absolutely breathtaking part of the world. We really got into the people and culture as much as possible. At times we were way out of our depth with the language, and experienced some really bizarre things - especially in the food department. Fortunately we are both quite open to trying new & different things. During the trip we stayed in all sorts of accommodation from 5 star opulent luxury, to very basic "guest houses" which were little more than grass huts way up in the mountains in areas not frequented by tourists.
Late on the second last day of the trip, we were on the last leg back into Hanoi to catch the flight home to Australia, the following afternoon. We were way off the beaten track well up in the mountains staying in a very small town not frequented by tourists. We'd visited many markets throughout the trip, and have many tails to tell of those experiences alone. This particular market caught us by complete surprise. To look at it was just like all the others, yet had a completely different atmosphere. I couldn't put my finger on it at the time, and even now I struggle to make any sense of it. For a start the wares all seemed much older, and strikingly more authentic. I'd collected some really beautiful pieces already on the trip, and was starting to wonder how we were going to get it all home.
Julie has a real jewellery fetish, especially for something really different. Anyway the booths at this market were ancient, with oil lamps. Electric lighting was almost non-existent, as were all electrical appliances come to think of it. There were practically no other Europeans at all in this part of the world. The air was thick with a menagerie of aromas produced from the many stalls selling cooked food for the evening meal. Here in the tropics there isn't much twilight, and it had gotten dark pretty quickly. We were just wondering around the area eating anything that looked interesting, it all smelt great. We were wondering how we were going to survive on the Western cuisine once we got home.
Julie wondered into this booth and that, each time greeted enthusiastically by the merchant. They couldn't speak much English, and as through most of the out of the way places on this trip, the bartering was performed with chalk and blackboards (or a calculator at times) with the vendor and purchaser taking turns to write down a price until an agreement was reached. The Aussie dollar was very strong compared to the Dong, and we were able to pick up any manner of trinket for just a few dollars. These markets seemed a little more expensive than all the others, but we simply put it down to the possible authenticity of the items for sale. Still they were quite reasonably priced when using western currency.
It was one particular booth, right at the edge on the maze of streets that really caught Julie's interest. I would get to the point where I would just wait outside with our back packs while Julie would briefly wonder inside. I stood outside this booth for a while then wondered a couple of booths down to check out the food on offer. I bought some "meat on a stick" and stood by waiting for Julie. There was still no sign of her, so I wondered inside to see what the holdup was. Through the front entrance, which was just a tent like all the others, there was a left hand turn that went through the door to a building. I kept going, smiling keenly to the old lady who sat at the door greeting me warmly. The place was full of tables completely covered with all manner of artefacts. Some small, some large, wooden, stone, porcelain, but mostly metal -- bronze.
I was immediately captured by the items on display, and examined many items very closely under the glow of the few oil lamps operating in the room. I went up a flight of dimly lit stairs where I found Julie completely engrossed in a table of rings. They were absolutely beautiful hand crafted bronze, gold, silver, etc. She would reach right up to the back of the table, pick up various pieces look at them for a while, then place them back exactly how she had found them. There was a very old gentleman sitting on a stool behind the table, and each time Julie examined an item he would say a barely understandable "welly nic, yu by, yu by". Apart from Julie, the old man and I there was no one else in the upstairs room and a few tables of wares with an empty stool behind each one.