I wake up, and I don't know where I am or what time it is. The sun is streaming through the window, a rich, warm sunlight like nothing we ever get back in London, but it feels like the middle of the night. I've never felt this completely disoriented in my entire life.
I look around, taking in a small room dominated by a half dozen cheap mattresses lying on the floor. There's a hookah next to where I'm lying, and it definitely brings back a few memories-someone told me that a ball of hash helped with insomnia, and I wasn't going to say no to free drugs. They were wrong-I still feel like the sun's not where it should be, a legacy of too much travel through too many time zones in too short a period-but the hash was amazing.
It starts coming back to me, little details filtering through the half-sleep and the residual buzz from the hash. I remember thumbing a ride from Lahore with Sahara, sharing a joint with a driver and conversing with him in rusty grammar school Italian because he didn't speak any English and I didn't speak any Hindi. We rode the hippie trail all the way from England, dropping out to do the East like the Beatles. We busked when the money ran out and relied on the kindness of strangers to get to Delhi. It's amazing how far the kindness of strangers extends to two pretty blondes who don't wear bras anymore.
The room is empty. I don't know where Sahara is right now. I stumble to my feet, feeling strange and light-headed-a lot of it is hunger, I realize. I don't know how long it's been since I've eaten. I rummage around in my pockets and come up with a few coins, probably enough for street food. I stagger outside and begin looking for a vendor.
After a few minutes walk, I find a man selling chaat from a small stand in a local market. I eat something I don't recognize and barely even taste, I'm so hungry. I feel like I'm not making an auspicious start to my spiritual journey, being so openly concerned with my empty belly, but I have to admit to myself that I don't even know what I'm doing here.
Sahara made it sound wonderfully romantic. She said that we would find wise and enlightened gurus who would enrich our spirit, helping us to shed the corrupt skin of the Western world so that we could be reborn as pure souls. We were both on LSD at the time, and it sounded magical. Now that I'm here, though, I don't even know where to find a guru let alone what sort of ancient wisdom I'm actually looking for. I realize I just sort of expected them to be all over the place, dispensing wisdom and enlightenment like chaat. Instead, India feels a lot like London in a different language.
I wander back to the little house, still feeling weirdly disconnected from everything. A couple of people have wandered in, but it's nobody I recognize-friends of friends of friends, probably. Sleeping arrangements get a little loosey-goosey when you're on the trail, I've learned that. I barely even remember the people we're staying with, apart from their smiles and their incredibly good drugs. I wave at my new housemates, and they wave back. One of them is a more than a little bit cute, and I start wondering if he's exclusive to anyone. And if I still have any birth control pills left.
I'm just starting to really wake up when Sahara comes bursting in wearing a sari, her long blonde hair streaming behind her like a halo of sunshine. "Gaia!" she shouts, her voice filled with wonder and excitement. I almost look around for a moment before I remember that she's talking to me. We dropped acid on our last night in London, going inside ourselves to find new identities for our spiritual pilgrimage. She gave up 'Doris' for 'Sahara', eagerly describing a vision of a vast and empty landscape inside her waiting to spring forth with miraculous new life.
I saw Judy Garland doing a conga dance through the room with Lucille Ball riding on her shoulders. I had no idea what the fuck it meant, so I said the first name that came to mind and made up some bullshit about seeing myself give birth to a whole world. I figured at the time that my guru would probably give me a better class of mystic insight than my drug-addled subconscious. Now I'm less sure.
Sahara races over to me, kneeling down in front of me and beaming at me with a rapturous smile that makes me want whatever it is she's taken. "Gaia, I have got to take you to someone! Oh my god, he is amazing! I've been speaking with the Bodhisattva Kobutsu all day, and...I just feel so open, you know? Like my enlightened self is finally speaking to me, deep within. You really have to come and see him."
I feel more like what I really have to do is smoke some more hash, get some more chaat, and maybe see if the cute guy in the corner likes to eat pussy, but it seems silly to come all this way and then ignore a chance at spiritual enlightenment because I'm too busy with food, drugs and sex. Besides, Sahara's practically glowing with inner peace. Maybe this guru of hers really has something after all. I say, "What are we waiting for?"
She grins widely as I get up, and talks the whole way there. "When we got in last night, I was talking to Saffron, and of course she said that the only true path was Buddhism. And she told me about this spiritual retreat she'd done, back in '66, just a really enlightening experience-she'd met her past selves, you know? And she told me that she'd been meeting with the Bodhisattva Kobutsu , and he'd helped her really clear her karma up-he'd helped her form a tulpa of her perfected self, and then they merged in a divine union, and it sounded so beautiful. Doesn't it sound beautiful to you?"
"Um, definitely," I say. I only understand about half of it-Saffron was one of the women back at the house, I remember her hugging everyone and saying "Namaste," when we first arrived. And I get the bit about meeting the Bodhisattva Kobutsu, because that's what we're here to do. But the the karma and the tulpa? It's all a bit fuzzy to me. This is usually the point in the conversation where I light up a joint and get squiffy-philosophy always makes more sense to me when I'm stoned.
"So I went to the ashram just like Saffron told me, and I asked to see the Bodhisattva Kobutsu, and you know what? He already knew I would be there! It was so amazing. We communed, and he helped me form my own tulpa, and it was just..." She flutters her hands, momentarily at a loss for words. "You have to, Gaia. You have to see what you can become."
We come up to the ashram, which is barely any larger than the little open-air house we just left and a good bit shabbier. Curtains cover the entrance and all the windows, and there's a man standing outside who looks a little more like a bouncer than I expected from a house of spiritual enlightenment. Still, he smiles at us warmly as we approach, and ushers us in to see the Bodhisattva Kobutsu without a word.
Kobutsu isn't what I expected at all. I had an image of an ancient man with a white beard longer than my hair wearing a homespun sari, but instead I see a clean-shaven young Indian man wearing a t-shirt and blue jeans. He must see the confusion written on my face, because the first words out of his mouth are, "An old soul, yes? An old soul in a young body." His English is strongly accented, but good.
"Please. Please sit," he says, gesturing to a place on the floor directly across from him. "You are Gaia, yes?"
I almost correct him, out of sheer reflex, but instead I say, "Yes," and sit cross-legged facing him. There's a small brazier between us filled with smoldering coals, adding stifling warmth to the already hot day. I find myself wishing I was wearing a sari like Sahara.
"Sahara," he says, giving her a look that I can only describe as 'significant'. She's been gazing at him with religious awe ever since we came into the room, mixed with what only someone who'd known her a very long time would recognize as lust. I've known Sahara since she was fifteen. She wants to jump his fucking bones.
"Of course, Lama," she says, bowing low. She turns and departs, leaving the two of us alone together.
I look at him, trying to see the ageless wisdom that Sahara described. I try to let go of my Western prejudice, clear my mind of preconceptions, and everything else that I would imagine Sahara telling me to do if she was still in the room. None of it works. He looks like the boys back home who thought that love beads and a guitar were all they needed to get a girl like me into bed.
(It also took a bottle of Chianti, some good weed and a Velvet Underground record playing on the hi-fi. Just for the record.)
He smiles at me, and says, "Your soul. It is in disorder, yes? You do not know the truth you are seeking here today." I can feel myself blushing a bit, although I'm not sure if it's embarrassment or defensiveness. His comments strike deeply at my insecurities, hitting all the parts of me that believe the people who said I was too self-absorbed and materialistic to find any kind of enlightenment. Maybe I'm so busy chasing the next high and the next fuck that I really wouldn't know a real guru if he was staring me in the face after all.
He chuckles warmly. "This will make it difficult," he says. "But not impossible. Come." I look around, but he doesn't seem to be going anywhere. "Meditate with me."
My heart sinks. I've never been any good at meditating. Sitting quietly and thinking of nothing just leaves me bored and restless. Five minutes was the longest I managed without turning on the telly or lighting up a joint. But I'm four thousand miles from home. It's the longest sustained effort I've ever put into anything in my life. I can't just walk out of here and tell Sahara I'm not up for it. I focus him with my best 'interested' stare, and said, "I'm ready."
He tosses a handful of flower petals into the brazier. Instantly, the room is filled with a thick, heady floral odor. "Om," he says, drawing out the 'mmm' sound into a hum that seems to go on for minutes.
I wait, unsure whether I should be repeating it like a response, or whether I'm expected to join in. He gestures to me just before he says it again, and this time I'm only slightly behind him. "Om," we say together. I draw out the consonant sound the same way he does, trying my best to at least pretend I'm trying my best.