It was late in the summer, and I’d been working construction along the LeHigh River, not far from Fontana Dam. A former teacher, I had become used to the cycle of nine months of inside work and three outdoors. This year, my marriage was suffering a bit more than usual as I’d taken a job that separated me from my wife and family but brought in the income needed to support them. I lived on the per diem, stayed in company housing, and sent my salary home. My needs were few – cigarettes, a few beers on the weekend, some good reading material and, just once in a while, renting a raft for a trip down the river.
This was an especially bright day, the water higher than usual from the recent rains. We were awaiting new materials and had just been told that it would be at least a day before they’d deliver the steel supports we needed. While I could have spent the day at the job site and drawn my pay while chatting and doing odd jobs, I felt better about taking the rest of the day off and seeing if I couldn’t get out on the river before the weekend tourists crowded it again.
I went down to the rental shop, picked out a raft, paid my fee and went out to the launch. The owner expressed concern that I was rafting alone, but it was such a slow day he was happy to have the business. I grabbed a sandwich and a six-pack, tossed them in the raft, put on my life jacket and headed out. I’d stay toward the middle of the river, I thought, and just drift a bit, enjoying the sunshine, the water, the lush greenery and the spectacular hills that rose above me. About four miles down the river I’d put in at the landing, where the raft and I would be taken by van back to the starting point. It had all the potential of a great, relaxing day and would energize me for the work tomorrow. Little did I know.
The first sign of trouble was, as it usually is, something innocuous. I hadn’t realized how high the river really was, but as I paddled out toward midstream, I felt the raft moving a bit faster than usual. The good part was that the rocks which churn the water into a froth were submerged – the bad was that the trees, which usually stood a bit back from the bank, now fringed the river with their branches. This would be a bit more treacherous than I had imagined, but as an experienced rafter, I wasn’t too concerned.
I became a bit more worried as the raft picked up speed, more quickly and sooner than it usually did. I was headed toward the Nantahala Gorge, still a ways down river, but the power and fury of the river seemed to grow steadily as I slid downstream. I was paddling hard now, trying to keep to the middle of the river as it seemed to constantly push me toward the bank.
My speed increased further as the river snaked to the left and then the right, and my muscles began to ache as I fought to keep control. I knew I couldn’t keep up this level of effort for long, and began to look for a sandbank or natural landing to take a breather. Not panicking, but growing ever more concerned, I saw that the usual landings were well underwater, with only overhanging branches on either side to trap and perhaps sink the careless rafter.
Coming around a sharp curve I knew I was in trouble as the river literally frothed beneath me and pushed me into the air, raft and all, directly toward a wide, thick branch and tangled debris collected beyond it. Dropping my paddle into the raft, I hooked my feet beneath the seat in front of me and grabbed at the branch, which hit me squarely and painfully in the chest, bringing every muscle in my body to bear to stop the raft from crashing into the tangled mess ahead.
For a moment, time seemed to stand still. The raft did indeed stop, but I was now hanging tightly to the branch, my body caught between the relentless and growing pressure of the river upon the raft, and as I tried to maneuver the raft with my feet, the raft suddenly broke free and shot down the river, hitting the logjam ahead and overturning. Within moments it was out of sight.
I cursed myself for ignoring the most important of safety rules: Never raft alone. Now, I was hanging from a tree limb and faced a few dilemmas. I could drop down into the water but seeing the speed of current and dangerous tangles at every junction, I figured I’d do as well as my sandwich and six-pack, which I’d seen shoot over the side when the raft overturned. So I pulled myself up onto the branch and made my way to the steep shore, then climbed up to the road which ran along the river. I’d have to walk downstream and hope that I could recover the raft.
As I reached the road, an older woman called out to me “Are you alright? I saw what happened!” She was walking toward me with a look of obvious concern.
“Fine, just chagrined at my stupidity. The river is unforgiving today!” I said, embarrassed.
“Chagrined, eh?” she said. “You must be a schoolteacher or something. Folks around here would just say ‘dog-ass stupid’ to be rafting the river alone.” She laughed.
“Yeah, I know how stupid it was, but I don’t get out much. You know what they say, ‘book-learning and common sense don’t always go together’. I am a teacher, by the way. Just not a very smart one” I said, good-naturedly.
“Well, I know how it is,” she said. “I teach too.”
We laughed, and I marveled at the hospitality and easy manner of these folks in North Carolina. Always, if one was honest and friendly, they made one feel at home. It was something sometimes seen back North, but rare. Here, it was commonplace.
“That HAS to hurt” she said, pointing at my chest. In the rush of adrenaline I’d taken little notice of my injuries, but as I looked down I saw where the branches had torn through my shirt and scratched my chest and shoulders deeply.
“Not as much as having to pay for that raft if I don’t find it,” I said, though her notice of my injuries seemed to have awakened the pain of them. “Where’s the nearest bend in the river? Maybe it will have washed up there?” I asked, hopefully.
“C’mon, I’ll drive you down there, and then let’s see if we can’t put something on those cuts” she said. She motioned me to an old ’69 Ford Country Squire station wagon, parked a bit off the road and near the edge of the gorge. “I was just out here enjoying the scenery myself when I saw you having some trouble down there.”