Looking back, I probably should have realised that all was not well even before we reached the front door. The lights along either side of the long gravel driveway were all working. But they were those low-voltage solar-charged garden lights. Ahead of us, the country house hotel itself was in almost total darkness.
'We have not the electricity,' the smiling fellow in the candle-lit reception area tells us when we go to check in.
'Oh?'
'Not the heating as well,' he says.
'Why not the heating?' I ask, finding myself slipping into his strange syntax.
'Not knowing,' he tells me.
'And...?'
'We are not being open for the guests.'
'Not open! But we have driven for six hours,' I tell him.
He smiles and nods. But there is nothing to smile about.
'It's my wife's birthday,' I tell him. 'An important one. Or at least it will be. In a few hours' time. This is supposed to be a special weekend. I made the booking weeks ago.'
'We are not being open,' he repeats, shaking his head to emphasise the point.
'So what are we supposed to do?'
For a moment or two, he frowns. And then he takes one of the candles and walks over to a rack filled with brochures. After waving his candle about a bit, he selects a brochure and hands it to me with a broad smile. 'Crangle the Chase,' he says, and he points to his left. And then he changes his mind, shakes his head, and points to his right.
'Crangle the Chase? What is Crangle the Chase? Is that another hotel?' I ask.
He doesn't seem sure. And, in the dimly-lit reception area, it is difficult to read the brochure that he has given me.
'And you are definitely not open?' I say, hoping against hope for a different answer.
'Not being open,' he says. 'Yes.'
My wife, Mary, who has remained silent throughout all of this, attempts one final try on our behalf. 'Will you be open soon?' she asks, carefully enunciating each word.
'Not being open soon. No,' our man confirms, with a broad candle-lit smile and an emphatic shake of his head.
Mary and I retreat to our car where there is at least light by which we can study the brochure.
The Crangle Chase brochure (it's Crangle Chase, not Crangle the Chase) is, to put it mildly, a tad confusing. It seems that Crangle Chase itself is some sort of adventure park in which it is possible to partake of various outdoor activities. Archery. Trail running. Fell walking. Canoeing. And then there is The Lodge. The Lodge may (or may not) have guest accommodation. And it may (or may not) have a restaurant. As I say, the brochure is not especially informative.
'Well, in the absence of any better ideas, I think we should go and investigate The Lodge,' I tell Mary. 'Other than that, we probably need to head back to Windermere or somewhere like that and just hope that somewhere has a vacancy.'
'Let's give it a try,' Mary says. 'If this map is anywhere near correct, Crangle Chase should only be about half a mile away.'
We set off in what we hope is the right direction and, within less than a mile, we see large sign saying: Crangle Chase. In much smaller lettering, there is also a sign for The Lodge. 'Well, so far, so good,' I say.
From the outside, The Lodge has a rustic appearance. But at least the lights are on. We push open the iron-studded front door and find ourselves in an almost baronial entry hall. Not large. But definitely baronial. In addition to various stuffed and mounted animal heads, there is a desk (probably estate-built, circa 1820, I'm thinking) with a bell on it. I ring the bell and we wait.
I am just about to ring the bell a second time when a thin man wearing a deerstalker hat appears. 'Ah, yes, good evening,' he says, as he finishes tucking in his shirt. 'And isn't it nice to see the end of the rain?'
'The rain?'
'Torrential,' the man says. 'Torrential, torrential. Biblical almost.'
'We are looking for a bed,' I say.
'Ha ha. No beds here,' he says. And then, after a brief pause, he says: 'The beds are all in the bedrooms.' And he laughs.
'A room then,' I say, beginning to wonder if I am dealing with the village idiot.
'Do you have a booking?'
'No,' I tell him.
He shakes his head. 'No. I didn't think so.' And he produces a large book from under the desk, opens it, and holds it up for me to see. 'See? Not a single entry. Not one. Not for tonight, anyway. Tomorrow... tomorrow is a different story. Do you have luggage?'
'In the car.'
'Good. Yes. Good. Well, you get that. And I'll find a key,' he says. And he nods.
The room to which he shows us is, like the entry hall, rather baronial. And I half expect the large canopied bed to have a plaque somewhere saying that King Someone-or-Other (or Queen Someone-or-Other) slept here. 'Nice,' I say.
'Do you need anything else?'
'Is there a bar?' I ask.
'A bar?'
'Somewhere that we can get a drink.'
'Ah. A drink. I suppose you'll be wanting gin,' our host says, frowning slightly.
'Or a glass of wine perhaps.'
'Oh. Wine. Yes. Wine we can do.' And his frown turns to a smile. 'Red or white. Well... red and white. We have both. I shall bring you some.'
'White perhaps,' I say, hoping that he will produce a list or at least that he will recite a selection of possibilities.
'I shall return,' he says. And, before we can enter into further discussion, he is gone.
'Oh, well,' I say to Mary, 'it's only for the night.'
'Well, it's certainly a bit different,' Mary says, looking around the room. 'But it's quite fun.'
Before we have finished unpacking, our host returns with a chilled bottle of Sancerre and a couple of glasses. He pours a small splash of the wine into one of the glasses and hands it to me. The wine is very good. Very good indeed. And I tell him so.
He nods. 'Anything else?'
'Food?' I suggest.
He frowns. 'Food. Hmm... hot or cold?'
'That rather depends,' I say. 'Hot or cold what?'
'Sandwiches. Hot or cold?' And then he answers his own question. 'On a night like this, I think hot. Well, warm anyway. Don't you? It's not raining now, but you never can tell at this time of the year.' And he nods in agreement with himself and is once again gone.
'Well, this could be interesting,' I tell Mary.
'Relax,' she says. 'At least we have a bed for the night. And we have wine. Rather nice wine.' And she raises her glass. 'Cin cin.'
When our host returns the second time, he is trundling a trolley with a platter of sandwiches, a large bowl of game chips, and a pot of blackberry something-or-other. 'Roasted loin of local venison on freshly-baked sourdough, with lightly-pickled blackberries. Oh, and game chips. OK?'
'It looks very nice,' Mary says. And I have to agree with her. It does look very nice.
'The cook returns tomorrow,' our host says. 'Breakfast in the dining room from seven-thirty. And you should probably book for supper. I think tomorrow could be busy. Although the weather may play a part.'
'Oh. Right. Perhaps a table at seven?' I say.
He nods. 'Seven? Seven would be heaven. And now I shall leave you to your supper.'
The sandwiches are excellent. They may even be contenders for the best sandwiches that either of us have ever eaten. And, for afters, on the lower tier of the trolley, there are the makings for plunger coffee and there is a half-bottle of brandy. I am getting to like The Lodge more and more.
Later, we retire to the giant four-poster bed for a last round of nookie before Mary turns fifty. But then, thanks to the wine, the brandy, or the fact that we have driven for just over six hours, we both fall asleep before we can get very far down the path to our sinful intentions.
In the morning, we are woken, just after seven, by the sound of a rumbling engine and many voices just outside our window. 'What the...?' I desperately need a pee anyway, and so I get up and take a peep around the edge of the curtain. Outside there is large coach and about thirty people dressed as if they are about to make an attempt on Everest. 'The hills are alive,' I tell Mary. 'But not with the sound of music. Oh, and happy birthday.'
'Thank you,' she says. 'Fifty, eh. Who would have thought it?'
'Fifty is the new twenty,' I tell her.