Looking back, I probably should have realised that all was not well even before we reached the front door. The lights along either side of the long gravel driveway were all working. But they were those low-voltage solar-charged garden lights. Ahead of us, the country house hotel itself was in almost total darkness.
'We have not the electricity,' the smiling fellow in the candle-lit reception area tells us when we go to check in.
'Oh?'
'Not the heating as well,' he says.
'Why not the heating?' I ask, finding myself slipping into his strange syntax.
'Not knowing,' he tells me.
'And...?'
'We are not being open for the guests.'
'Not open! But we have driven for six hours,' I tell him.
He smiles and nods. But there is nothing to smile about.
'It's my wife's birthday,' I tell him. 'An important one. Or at least it will be. In a few hours' time. This is supposed to be a special weekend. I made the booking weeks ago.'
'We are not being open,' he repeats, shaking his head to emphasise the point.
'So what are we supposed to do?'
For a moment or two, he frowns. And then he takes one of the candles and walks over to a rack filled with brochures. After waving his candle about a bit, he selects a brochure and hands it to me with a broad smile. 'Crangle the Chase,' he says, and he points to his left. And then he changes his mind, shakes his head, and points to his right.
'Crangle the Chase? What is Crangle the Chase? Is that another hotel?' I ask.
He doesn't seem sure. And, in the dimly-lit reception area, it is difficult to read the brochure that he has given me.
'And you are definitely not open?' I say, hoping against hope for a different answer.
'Not being open,' he says. 'Yes.'
My wife, Mary, who has remained silent throughout all of this, attempts one final try on our behalf. 'Will you be open soon?' she asks, carefully enunciating each word.
'Not being open soon. No,' our man confirms, with a broad candle-lit smile and an emphatic shake of his head.
Mary and I retreat to our car where there is at least light by which we can study the brochure.
The Crangle Chase brochure (it's Crangle Chase, not Crangle the Chase) is, to put it mildly, a tad confusing. It seems that Crangle Chase itself is some sort of adventure park in which it is possible to partake of various outdoor activities. Archery. Trail running. Fell walking. Canoeing. And then there is The Lodge. The Lodge may (or may not) have guest accommodation. And it may (or may not) have a restaurant. As I say, the brochure is not especially informative.
'Well, in the absence of any better ideas, I think we should go and investigate The Lodge,' I tell Mary. 'Other than that, we probably need to head back to Windermere or somewhere like that and just hope that somewhere has a vacancy.'
'Let's give it a try,' Mary says. 'If this map is anywhere near correct, Crangle Chase should only be about half a mile away.'
We set off in what we hope is the right direction and, within less than a mile, we see large sign saying: Crangle Chase. In much smaller lettering, there is also a sign for The Lodge. 'Well, so far, so good,' I say.
From the outside, The Lodge has a rustic appearance. But at least the lights are on. We push open the iron-studded front door and find ourselves in an almost baronial entry hall. Not large. But definitely baronial. In addition to various stuffed and mounted animal heads, there is a desk (probably estate-built, circa 1820, I'm thinking) with a bell on it. I ring the bell and we wait.
I am just about to ring the bell a second time when a thin man wearing a deerstalker hat appears. 'Ah, yes, good evening,' he says, as he finishes tucking in his shirt. 'And isn't it nice to see the end of the rain?'
'The rain?'
'Torrential,' the man says. 'Torrential, torrential. Biblical almost.'
'We are looking for a bed,' I say.
'Ha ha. No beds here,' he says. And then, after a brief pause, he says: 'The beds are all in the bedrooms.' And he laughs.
'A room then,' I say, beginning to wonder if I am dealing with the village idiot.
'Do you have a booking?'
'No,' I tell him.
He shakes his head. 'No. I didn't think so.' And he produces a large book from under the desk, opens it, and holds it up for me to see. 'See? Not a single entry. Not one. Not for tonight, anyway. Tomorrow... tomorrow is a different story. Do you have luggage?'
'In the car.'
'Good. Yes. Good. Well, you get that. And I'll find a key,' he says. And he nods.
The room to which he shows us is, like the entry hall, rather baronial. And I half expect the large canopied bed to have a plaque somewhere saying that King Someone-or-Other (or Queen Someone-or-Other) slept here. 'Nice,' I say.
'Do you need anything else?'
'Is there a bar?' I ask.
'A bar?'
'Somewhere that we can get a drink.'
'Ah. A drink. I suppose you'll be wanting gin,' our host says, frowning slightly.
'Or a glass of wine perhaps.'