We Roma, Gypsies as you call us, are nomads. Always have been. That's how we spread all through the Balkans, all through Eastern Europe in general. I guess there's a certain romance to life on the open road. At least, you
gadje
certainly seem to think so. That's the word we call you outsiders.
Gadje
. Me? I've shared a bed with a hot
gadje
from Budapest to Minsk. Even scored with twins, freaking
twins
, one time up in St. Petersburg. But the absolute best lay I ever managed to score was this one time out in Belgrade.
I'd gone down to Serbia to crash with my cousins down there. We Roma, we tend to have big families, and pretty much everyone knows everyone else, if only by reputation. They welcomed me with welcome arms, naturally asking me everything they could about Hungary and Romania, where I had been living for the past couple years or so. The situation in Serbia at the time was pretty bad, so they were all thinking about making a trip up north. Can't say that I blame them either. We Roma, we tend to be the scapegoats for you guys. Either you love, or you hate us, and sometimes even both at the same time!
Well one night, a couple of Serbian guys came out to our camp. I know you Americans like to think that we Roma live out in the countryside in some sort of traveling caravans, but that's not the case these days. My family and I were crashing in a crumbling Soviet-era housing project with drab concrete walls. The Serbs, yeah, they had the nice places. They kept us out in the slums, so when we saw a couple of city boys we got kind of curious.
Turns out they were from some big important family over in Belgrade. They were having a wedding, and they wanted to hire an
authentic
Gypsy band for their wedding, you know, just like the good old days. Considering that those "good old days" included a time when we were virtually slaves to some lord or another, I didn't exactly share the same sense of nostalgia, but money is money. They talked to us for a while, asked if we were any good. Naturally, I replied that my cousin Grigor could play the fiddle, and Ivan was a great singer.
"The best voice in all of the Balkans," he proudly exclaimed, a huge smile across his face.
Not entirely convinced, they asked us to perform for them. Considering that none of us had worked in weeks, we jumped at the opportunity. Grigor went into the decrepit apartment and came back out with his fiddle. Ivan started to sing. And I just clapped my hands to provide some sense of rhythm, because I had nothing else to do, and wanted to get a hold of that money nonetheless. It seemed we put on a good show, because our Serbian friends were impressed. They began clapping and cheering, so we continued, playing a couple more songs late into the night.
Eventually, the duo told us that we had the job. It was good, because I really didn't feel like clapping all night. They thanked us for our effort, and told us where and when the wedding would be held. One of them passed a note to Ivan, though I'm not quite sure why, as none of us could read Serbian. Ivan just tucked it into his jacket pocket. The Serbs assured us that we could help ourselves to food at the wedding, and then left. They probably didn't want to stay out in the slums much past dark. Again, I can't say I blame them.
After they were gone, Ivan turned and asked me if I could play any instruments. Everyone else in the family could play, so it was going to be a big band. I told him that the only instruments I knew how to play were the fiddle (which was already taken), the
nai
and the cimbalom. I mostly grew up in Romania, after all. Since they didn't have a cimbalom I could borrow, and nobody else in town knew where to find them, it looked like I was going to be stuck playing the
nai
. That was good enough for me! I spent the rest of the week practicing.
When the day finally came, we loaded up a couple pick up trucks full of instruments and drove up into the city. I have to admit, Belgrade wasn't as depressing as I would have expected, but everywhere we went, it seemed like the Serbs were giving us disapproving looks. Well screw them. We made our way out to the hotel where the wedding was being held. Like pretty much everyone else in Eastern Europe, the Serbs have big damned weddings. There were easily a few hundred guests crowding into the dining hall, and the place was overflowing with food and decorations.