Petaloudes (Greek): Valley of the Butterflies
Old Rhodes town is beautiful and ancient, predating the Roman empire, and although much of it has been lost and has decayed over the years, enough remains to preserve a sense of the history and culture that comprised the Greek civilisation.
New Rhodes town is somewhat less so, mainly for tourists who want to drink too much and party noisily till dawn, sleeping the morning away then play Russian roulette with the ultraviolet on the beach all afternoon. Nothing against that personally, just not my thing.
I'd previously spent a week on the delightful island of Simi which typified the Greek way of life and had essentially remained unchanged for centuries, with some residents never even having ventured off the island all their lives. Being only 25 square miles in area it comprises mountainous regions and a main port, with a central upper town, and various smaller settlements mainly on the coast. A meal with more courses than I could count could be had for five dollars and the beaches of yellow sand contrasted with the crystal clear blue ocean, basically a paradise island albeit in a quiet and idyllic way.
You strolled slowly about the island, the only way as it was so hot. Life was easy and everything moved in a chaotically organised way, for instance how was it possible to transport a family of five on a moped? Yet it happened all the time. Why were most new buildings unfinished? Because you only paid taxes on a house when it was completed hence the top story was usually left with iron reinforcing struts sticking out of an unbuilt structure. Simple! But it had worked for hundreds, probably thousands of years and that is how the good people of Simi lived.
Another oddity was that you couldn't put toilet paper down the lavatory as the drainage system was built by Britain decades ago and was narrow bore hence loo tissue would block it up. So you placed it in a little bin and it was collected each morning by the hotel staff. I gave up trying to figure out why these quaint customs had not been modernised then decided it was not my place to worry about such things and just enjoyed my time there.
Sitting on a jetty in the evening warmth eating a delicious seafood salad washed down with dry wine and with the waves lapping a few feet from my toes was one of the memories I'll always keep. As was the long trek to this restaurant which was apparently recommended by just about everyone. When I arrived it looked like a transport cafe and the owner welcomed me with a cockney accent. What was going on? However the food was heavenly and as near as possible to a culinary orgasm on this earth. Turned out he was schooled in London where he learnt his trade and inherited the establishment from his parents. It's a funny old world and smaller than one would expect.
So totally relaxed and with the beginning of a nice tan I took the ferry across to the island of Rhodes and arrived in the town of the same name. Not wanting the noise and crowds of the new area I stayed in a traditional inn, The Karpenski, that was situated in a delightful old street in Rhodes Old Town. Run by a lovely lady called Kyria (Greek for Mrs) Cirillo, it was spotlessly clean and seemed like an oasis or sanctuary of order in a town of traditional and crumbling stonework. Meals were provided but if you wanted to eat out that was not a problem and new bedding and towels were provided every day. There were no problems with the plumbing and showers were more like waterfalls that you really needed after a day walking around Rhodes' dusty streets and avenues.
Central to the town was the fountain, not only impressive but the cool spray welcome in the heat of the day. Overlooking the plaza was a world famous restaurant, yes eating figured heavily on my daily itinerary and again it specialised in seafood, to which I have no complaints. Think it took me most of the afternoon to digest the volume of lobster and prawns and it served the only starter I've ever had with baby octopus (octopi?).
The medieval part of the town was amazing and so atmospheric. Statues adorned every square and street as did geometrical objects from spheres to pyramidal obelisks. Whether they symbolised anything in particular I don't know (although I'm sure they represented some great thinker's philosophical musings) but the whole experience made one more contemplative, less inclined to rush through life, caused me to stop and think, if only for a moment. Wondering how many thousands of years ago did people first walk these avenues and stand in the plazas discussing great and deep things, I became very much aware of my place in the universe. Feeling small but not insignificant, humble yet not unimportant, I returned to my inn with a different outlook and obviously a new expression on my face as Kyria Cirillo commented: 'You've been to the medieval section haven't you?'
I smiled and confirmed I had, she said that it was good for everyone to visit such a place at least once, as a reminder there are higher things in this world and perhaps that helps us to face the ordinariness of everyday life. I remembered her words as I visited the Byzantine harbour, the Acropolis and the Cathedral. Especially in the Knight's Street did I feel myself more than what I had previously considered to be. Was there part of us that was perhaps eternal and were we all connected, the human race, by history and destiny? All sounds like very deep stuff, just trying to describe my state of mind at this time and the way this place was affecting me.
But from the profound to the mundane, some personal stuff: Mandy Binton, age 25, 5'5" tall with a medium curvy build, long brown hair, pretty rather than beautiful and my friends tell me my best asset is my laugh. First holiday by myself after earning enough to put a deposit down on an apartment, solely attracted to women and not currently in a relationship. All sounds rather ordinary but that's who I am and quite happy to be so. The fact that this place was far from ordinary made it different, and special.
One thing remained which I had not seen, something mysterious called The Valley of the Butterflies (Petaloudes in Greek). Sounded intriguing so I booked a place on the tour and arrived at the pickup point around 2 in the afternoon. Small buses took us in a group of between fifty and a hundred visitors and parked in a clearing before the start of the valley, leaving quite a walk ahead of us.