Author's note: This was my eighth trip to Europe. They say that the jet lag means less every time you fly the pond, but I don't think that's true. What I do think is that we learn to live with it, but that our bodies still feel it, every time.
The focus is to be on one day, one day only. Here's the story of that day.
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I woke up in a strange place, uncertain where I was. As I awakened, I realized that I was at my brother's house, in the village of Cres, on the Adriatic island of the same name. Cres lies on the Dalmatian coast, off mainland Croatia. Brother Don and I had driven from Frankfurt to Croatia on the same day that I arrived in Europe - a twelve hour drive after an all night flight over the Atlantic, a drive that included crossing the Alps - and ferried with his Audi over to the island.
His house is a two level apartment row house on an ancient village street, too narrow for cars. It had been a convent. There are shops and restaurants just paces away, and a small courtyard that echoes every sound coming from any of the surrounding buildings. Here, in the courtyard, the neighbors sit and do nothing but drink, talk and relax.
It was around 8:00 a.m. that morning, euro time, which is like early tomorrow this side of the Atlantic. Not a creature was stirring in that house, in my brother's beach house, there in the pedestrian only area of the village of Cres, where Roman stones formed the walkway toward my brother's front door. I got my ass up and I got moving. A block or so away, I found a coffee bar, and I had a morning espresso. I had not had a coffee in the two years since I kicked caffeine, but I didn't care. 48 hours out of JFK, after that too long drive down from Frankfurt, I was about as dazed as I could be. Then, in the rising sun, I wandered around the old town of Cres.
Next thing I knew I was at the stone church, which had a high square tower and which was the focal point of the town. The church was open, I went in. The Stations of the Cross were a thousand years old and truly unique. I walked the Stations of the Cross; I studied the representations of Jesus Christ, being cared for by the different women of Jerusalem as he walked his final journey. I wondered as I prayed. What about the people who had been stuck there, stuck there on that island, people who for this reason or that could not leave, generations who lived and died there, before cars, when the tiny fishing village was a place to escape from and not a place to escape to.
It was a Roman town, back in Roman times, and parts of the place probably looked the same to me as it did to some Roman thousands of years ago. It was and is a fishing village, with a bay and a small harbor. Pirates combed these islands during Roman times. Julius Caesar was probably held here when he was kidnapped as a youth. I finished my prayers, crossed myself with holy water, and I left the church.
I have always enjoyed the morning sun, and the sun that day was a sun to enjoy. I went back to the house, changed into my bathing suit, left my wallet and passport behind, and headed out for a walk along the beach. Close to town, the beach is developed. A paved path, like a bike path in the USA, runs out from the small harbor along the coastline. There are restaurants here and there, nice houses on the water, some shops. But the beach itself is shit. No sand, only rocks. No surf. And the rocks are quite sharp. I was wearing my sandals and wishing that I had a pair of beach shoes. Already, before 9 am, there were other morning sun worshippers out. I saw an occasional topless woman as I walked. Not surprising, I had seen topless women in Europe many times. Although the beach was rocky, the water was aqua blue and beautiful. The sea did not smell, no rotten fish, no salt water odors, and the water appeared quite clean.
There was an attractive couple buying juice at a beach store; so attractive that I took a second glance at them. The woman had on a maroon shift dress that hung from her shoulders like a long tee shirt. She was thin, maybe 5'6, but thin with shape. She had long brown hair and a striking face. The guy was dark haired and a little taller than my 6'1. I guessed them to be late 20s, maybe 30.
My intention was to take a very long walk and to get some exercise. Jet lag and my over indulgence in wine needed to be balanced out. The path along the beach was a paved sidewalk, some concrete, some blacktop. Bicycles passed, and I watched the petals crank the wheels. The path seemed to go on forever. I watched, I walked. After an hour's hike, I came to an area where there was a campground. I saw people waking up, stepping out into the morning light, drinking coffee. The day was surprisingly bright, a sky clear blue sun hot day, common maybe there but not common to me. Kids were already in the water. Some of the kids were nude and it seemed quite natural.
As I continued down the path, I came to an area where open nudity was permitted. There were no signs, not like France or California, nothing said "nudity OK." It was a campground of a sort, adjacent to the water. There were small trailer houses that may have been rental units, I didn't know, but the people were standing around nude, making small talk with one another. For the most part they were older, unattractive people. They sported distorted shapes that I found no pleasure in seeing clothed or not. It was embarrassing to look at them, stomachs hanging out, smoking cigarettes, drinking styrofoam cups of coffee. My pace quickened.
`Walking further out I rounded a corner or two, and I found a nice area set up for sunbathing. The beach there was extremely rocky, big sharp rocks interspaced with small rocks. To overcome the rocks' surface someone created concrete sunbathing plots in the 150 feet or so between the bike path and the sea. These were poured level pads, each about the size of a king sized bed. They were spaced at different height levels near the water, about 15 feet or so apart. (OK, they were spaced like Spock's chess game on the Star Trek series - don't mean to date myself.) Some of the better perches were secluded and could not be seen from the bike path. Some were clearly placed to be seen from the path, which no doubt brought its share of gawkers on a beautiful June Saturday.
A couple was walking behind me, they followed me close for several minutes, after I passed them first from behind. They were attractive, early thirties I thought, she had dark red hair worn in a short style, and she wore black sunglasses; he was burly with a full trimmed beard. Along the water, a family of three were posing for pictures - a man, a woman and a young teen age girl - with their bathing suits on. The mom was fat but the young girl was just coming of age, thin, maybe 15 years old. In an instant they each stripped and posed for the same group pictures in the nude. The teenager had perky budding breasts and a wisp of blond hair at the top of her thin thighs. Then I noticed the couple behind me stop and climb toward one of the sunbathing platforms. I walked on, where I came upon a very attractive woman close to the path. She had long dark hair. As I approached, she stripped her bright blue bikini off while stretching out on a lounge chair. The woman saw me approaching her and she opened her legs. She looked up and smiled at me, and her smile invited me to study her nudity. The people in this area of the beach were, for the most part, very good looking. But more than that, they were exhibitionists showing off their good looks.