I ground my teeth as my GS1200 jittered and shook over the washboard surface of the dirt farm road. I rose to my feet, standing on the foot pegs so I could use my legs as additional shock absorbers. For the last seventy miles I'd spent more time standing than sitting.
I'd left San Jose, California, on May eighth, the day of my thirty-third birthday, three months and ten days after signing the papers selling my company. I'd been on the road since, living a dream I'd had for years. Over the past five months I'd visited thirty-nine of the forty-eight contiguous states. Mississippi, the state whose roads were currently beating the shit out of me and my motorcycle, being the thirty-ninth. I had the rest of Mississippi, Louisiana, Arkansas, Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, and Arizona to go before I returned home.
I'd ridden over twenty thousand miles on the back of my trusty iron steed. From the beginning of my trip, I'd made it a point to avoid interstates as much as possible, sticking to back roads, gravel and dirt roads such as this one, and occasionally, almost no road at all. I slept in a tent five nights out of seven, stopping in motels only when I needed to do laundry or was so grimy that a sponge batch was no longer an option. I was going where I wanted, when I wanted, and I didn'tβ
I felt the front wheel washing out into the deep, slippery dust as it began to follow a rut. I twisted the throttle hard, trying to lighten the front end and power out of it, but it was too late. I went down in a tumble of arms and legs as the bike pitched me from the saddle. It wasn't the first time the bike had put me on the ground, and I'd probably hit the dirt at least a few more times before I reached California.
"Fuck..." I muttered as waited a moment, lying where I fell to give any pain time to start as I did a quick mental inventory of myself to make sure I wasn't injured.
When I realized there was no serious discomfort, I groaned to my feet and began slapping dust off myself, breathing hard from the heat and the adrenaline rush of crashing my bike. I was only doing about thirty miles per hour over the rough, dusty road, so my tumble hadn't been violent. My BMW was well protected with crash bars all around, and I was wearing full riding armor, so the fall hadn't hurtβmuchβbut now I had to pick that heavy bitch up again.
"Getting really tired of falling off..." I grumbled to no one as turned to the bike.
With my gear on the bike, the motorcycle weighed around eight hundred pounds. When I started on this trip, I either had to unload the bike or enlist the help of others, if someone was around, to help me get the bike up after I crashed. Now, after five months and more falls than I cared to remember, I could muscle the loaded bike upright alone if the ground wasn't muddy. Today, the road was anything but muddy.
I settled to my knees beside the bike and grabbed two of the crash guards as I placed my chest against the seat. Driving hard with my legs, I powered myself into the seat, battling to my feet as the bike slowly rose. Once, rather than offer to help, some joker commented how it looked like I was fucking my bike as I muscled it upright. I didn't care. Let the asshole throw
his
back out while trying to dead lift a bike. Besides, short of an Olympic power lifter, there was no way a lone guy was going to lift my loaded bike any other way. Panting from my effort, I pushed the stand down and eased the bike to a rest.
"Yeah!" I roared in victory as I threw my hands in the air. In the past five months I'd leaned down and muscled up, not the least reason being because I kept having to pick this heavy bastard up.
I quickly checked the bike over and adjusted my gear before I thumbed it into life. It started easily, and with a little hop, I slid my leg between the tank bag and the bed roll strapped to the rear seat. With a hard pannier on each side, plus another one on the rear, my bedroll and tent on the rear seat, and the large tank bag with my map in front of me, I was wedged into the saddle with little room to spare.
I kicked the bike into gear and started off again. My family and friends said I was nuts for taking this trip, and doubly nuts for doing it alone. I didn't care. I was going to do it, and since nobody wanted to ride with me, I was doing it solo. I'd poured nearly ten years of my life into starting a company that allowed business to track customer's buying habits and make predictive inventory recommendations. It had been wildly successful, so much so, a venture capital firm made me an offer I couldn't refuse. They'd wanted me stay on, they'd
begged
me to stay with the company, but with eighty million dollars in my checking account, I was done. I wanted to live a little and see the country. I'd never been outside California until I left on this trip, and now I was a better man for it.
My girlfriend at the time said if I left she wouldn't be there when I returned. She'd been shocked when I offered to help her pack her shit. I was doing this whether she wanted me to or not, and I hadn't regretted my decision for an instant. I hadn't even wondered if she'd carry out her threat because I didn't give a shit one way or the other. I hadn't realized how much my life had become about bullshit until it was just me and my motorcycle on the road.
I chattered along the rough road, the bike dancing over the bumps and ruts, navigating by map because
Bitching Betty,
the woman that lived inside my GPS, wouldn't allow me take roads like these. Avoiding major roads allowed me to see America without commerce ruining the views. I loved the seemingly infinite miles of fields, forests, and lakes, abandoned or ramshackle houses, derelict buildings, and rusting equipment. This was the real America, not all the fake bullshitery of California.
It was hotter than seven hells as I rattled along, slowly eating the miles. I hadn't seen another car or truck in the past hour, but I didn't care. My next stop was a wide spot in the road called Hohenlinden. I'd need gas by then and I hoped they had a filling station. I had a two-gallon can of gas on the bike in case I ran out, but with no cell reception I had no way to find my next fuel stop until I saw it for myself. There were a lot of places marked on my map that, except being marked on a map, you'd never know were there. I hoped Hohenlinden wasn't another one of those. The next town was Montevista, but that would push my bike to the limit of its range, and if Montevista didn't have gas, or cell reception so I could find a station, I was going to be in trouble.
I'd learned that lesson early in my trip when I got stuck in the middle of nowhere, ran out of gas, and used damn near every drop of my emergency reserve. I hadn't had to walk, but if the gas station had been another three or four of miles, I'd have probably walked a couple of them. That hadn't been funny and it took weeks to get the puckers out of the seat from my ass being clenched so tight.
The roughness of the road increased and I rose on the pegs. After a moment I realized something wasn't right with the bike and I glanced around, watching the road as it passed beneath my tires. The BMW normally rode pretty well, but it was beating the shit out of me even though the road didn't look any worse now than it had for the past ten or fifteen miles. I rode for another mile or so, trying to determine if the problem was the bike or the road, before I stopped. I decided it was bike.
I could see for miles in both directions, and since there was no dust cloud from an approaching vehicle, I stopped in the middle of the road. With another little hop, I dismounted. I noticed immediately the bike was sitting low in the ass, and it took me only a moment to find the problem. The rear monoshock had failed. There was oil caked dust all over the rear of the bike and there was almost no gap in the coils on the spring. I pulled my helmet off before crouching to take a closer look. Poking at the shock with my finger, it didn't take long before I realized I was fucked. I carried a tire repair kit, extra oil, and spare bulbs and fuses, along with a basic tool kit, but I didn't have a spare shock. Of all the things I worried about breaking on the trip, a shock was close to the bottom of the list.
"Well... shit," I grumbled as I stood and looked around. There was nothing as far as I could see except fields of cotton.
I debated my quandary. Did I push the bike off to the side of the road and walk in the heat, or did I ride and risk damaging the bike further? Without a rear suspension, riding over these rough roads I could easily break the bike's back by snapping the frame. Pursing my lips tight, I hopped my leg over the seat. I'd just have to ride slow.
I crept along in second gear, groaning in mechanical sympathy with ever crashing bang as I hobbled my bike along. Every couple of miles I stopped and checked my cell phone for a signal, but I might as well have been on the moon for all the service that was available.
Ahead of me was a small grove of trees standing tall in the surrounding fields. I decided to pull off there to drink some water and cool off a little. Moving so slowly, I was baking in the hot, Mississippi sun, and I didn't need to add dehydration to my problems. As I approached the trees, I could see the roof of a structure, and I had to resist the urge to speed up. The roof appeared to be a barn, but where there was a barn maybe there was a house, and where there was a house there was probably a phone.
I pulled into the wide dirt drive, stopping well back from the small house, and killed the engine. I was preparing to dismount when a woman stepped out of the house and waited on the porch. I removed my helmet immediately and parked it on the mirror. I didn't want to scare her.
"Hello!" I called as I stepped off the motorcycle but remained standing beside it. "I'm hoping you can help me!"
The woman watched me a moment and then seemed to make a decision. "What can I do for you?"
I unzipped my armored jacket as I slowly approached. "My motorcycle is broken and I'm wondering if I can use your phone. I'll be happy to pay for any charges."
"It seemed to be running okay when you stopped."