In Canada, even if you live in a city, the wilderness is never too far away, particularly if you are willing to canoe or hike off the beaten path. With care, you can find still isolated areas within a few hours drive, where you can get away from the internal combustion engine for a day or a week - the trick is in finding the spots.
In the winter, one of our favorite activities is paper prospecting for potential new routes. On cold winter nights, we pour over our maps, selecting promising areas, then go to the topo maps to make sure we avoid those lakes ringed with black dots signifying cottages. (and yes children - this was in the days before Google map). Finally on to the aerial maps and letters to the Ministry to make sure the route is doable. Then in the spring and summer, we would try the routes. Oftentimes we make mistakes, we have many tales of walking for kilometers through a mosquito infested mash with a canoe over our head, only to discover a short portage, and HORRORS motor boats just around the bend. Another time, we took the wrong portage and paddled back to the highway. But we've found some gems too. Places where you can watch otter, beaver, snapping turtles and, more often now, falcons and eagles; where the call of the loon at sunset isn't interrupted by the insistent put-put of an outboard motor, and where sometimes there are big fish just waiting to be caught.
The Spirit River system is one of those gems. More than 50 kilometers of river and lakes extending between two cottage lakes, with almost nothing in-between. We explored it gradually, first going into the upper lakes for trips in and out, then finally biting the bullet and going down the river. It wasn't large, all flat water, except for the portages, those long hikes with canoe and gear between sections of passable water. As my father-in- law used to say of nearby provincial park famous ofr its canoeing and portages "Algonquin is where I learned that a canoe is something you carry over your head like an umbrella." Even the names, Long Falls, High Falls and Middle Falls were daunting, and rightly so. But it was worth it, the isolated river valley, the transition from coniferous to deciduous oak forest, the wetlands with their carnivorous plants and hidden orchids. And in the middle of the trip there were the Twin Lakes.
You approach the lakes right after the railway bridge, looking down the valley, past High Falls to the two lakes below. The waterfall plunges into a pool at the base of the upper lake, then it's about half a kilometer across to the short reach of fast stream which connects the upper and lower lakes. Both portages are rugged but passable and not too long (not nearly as long as Long Falls further downriver). In the summer, the lakes stratify, and the upper waters of the lakes are warm, but below a depth 6-10 feet the waters are at least 5o C colder. You can hold on to rocks in the middle of the stream, letting the warm water caress your portage weary body, then let go to be swept into the lower lake, where the current brings up cooler water. Then too, there are some good fish in the lakes, both large and smallmouth bass of over 20".
The trip had become our hidden jewel, one we kept to ourselves, and over several trips the only people we ever saw downriver were at the small hunt camp just off the railway bridge. I'd made the trip several times with friends and family, each time was special; then one year there wasn't anyone else to go with me so I soloed.
It had been a hard year, another corporate reorg and I was tense and irritable, an irascible old bear, who needed to get away from everyone. It was early fall, the weather still warm and the water up from summer low but nowhere near flood levels. Nonetheless, I'd taken the portage small pond series into the upper lakes rather than trying the upper river which can be a rock garden. I'd made good time, into Tuttle Lake the first evening, and Birch the next day. Both of the upper lakes had been quiet, the weather fine with warm days and crisp nights, and no bugs. I was hoping to see the first autumn colors as I moved downriver from coniferous to deciduous forest. I'd taken a few decent fish, but nothing really big. I made good time going down to Twin Lakes the next day, set up camp on the lower lake at noon, took a swim in our famous whirlpool stream, then dressed and carried the canoe to the upper lake for an afternoon fish. Four days out and I hadn't seen a soul - glorious.