The first view I ever got of Tingting was my favourite one; a hundred and eighty degrees straight down her top. I was standing with one foot on each of the top two bunk beds in the trains cabin, trying to make our back-packs fit into the luggage rack when she put one foot inside the room, peering at her ticket to see if she was in the right place. Her top, while not indecent when viewed from a more normal angel, allowed me to see clearly between her two large breasts, and even down to her belly button. For a moment, I got a glimpse of heaven, and then she decided she was indeed in the right place and started to dump her bags on the bunk bed, breaking my view in the process.
Following behind her was her friend, of whom I could see little, except the fact that her typically Chinese long black hair had been dyed slightly red, and that she was a lot smaller than her friend. As they settled down on to the left-hand bed, I gestured for them to pass up their cases to me. As usual for women, their cases were about twice as large and three times as heavy as ours, and I nearly slipped and broke my leg pulling them up.
By the time I had rearranged the rack so that everything fit neatly, Lewis had already started to make friends with the two girls. Since he was over six foot and there was not much space on the bunk beds he was forced to lean forwards towards the girls, and he was trying to communicate with simple English and the odd Chinese word he'd picked up. In terms of actual information being transmitted, he was a complete failure, but his big smile and infectious laugh seemed to be already endearing him to the skinny girl; the fatter one if anything seemed a little unsure of what to make of him, maybe even a little nervous. I wondered if she had ever met a black man before.
I'd only met Lewis a couple of days before, at the train station where we were both trying to buy tickets to Beijing. He had a teaching job starting in a few days in some small town in the north of China somewhere, and I was taking a short holiday. After being made redundant from one company, I had quickly found a new job, but one which didn't start until the new year, and so had decided to blow some of the compensation on seeing something of the world. Both of us had been trying to buy train tickets for Beijing, a process which had been much complicated by the fact that no-one in the ticket office spoke English and all the tickets for that day and the next had been sold out. As we'd ended up buying the tickets together at the same window, we'd ended up in the same cabin. Actually, as I watched him talk to the girls, I marvelled at how quickly Lewis could become friends with anyone, whether they spoke his language or not. He was encouraging the two girls to touch his dreadlocks, something they had never seen before. His huge laugh boomed out completely covering the two girls' soft giggles.
By this time the train was pulling out of Chengdu station. The newer high-speed trains would do the trip to Beijing in about ten hours, but we hadn't managed to get tickets for one of those. As it was the train would take nearly twenty-four hours to arrive. It was eight in the morning, and the four of us would have a whole day and night together in the small cabin. The scarcity of tickets, meant we had been forced to buy the first class tickets, which meant that while the cabin was still cramped, we had a little bit more space than in the ordinary carriages, in which the bunk beds were piled three high instead of two, and our section had a door which could be closed, for a little privacy. After seeing our new travelling companions though, I suddenly felt glad we'd had to pay the extra.
I climbed down from the top bunk and sat next to Lewis on the bottom one. The two girls smiled at me and I introduced myself: "Hi, I'm Roger".
"Ro-ger" the fatter girl echoed, trying to get her mouth around the unfamiliar syllables. "Where...", she thought for a second, then finished "...you from?".
"I am from England", I told her slowly and she seemed delighted that she had both been understood and understood the answer.
"How old are you?" she asked more confidently. "I'm thirty-six" I replied.
"How...no...why...", she stopped and started a discussion in Chinese with her friend about how to say what she wanted. Occasionally there would be an English word, but none of them seemed to satisfy the two girls, and I was completely bewildered as to what they wanted to communicate. Eventually the room settled into uncomfortable silence.
At this point, Lewis got out his iPad and started to show them pictures he'd taken at the panda reserve a few days ago. The girls cooed over the pandas and panda babies and the communication difficulties were forgotten for a good fifteen minutes. After we tried to play cards together; the girls attempting to introduce a game which they couldn't explain except by playing open hand after open hand. Whenever we thought we'd got the basics down we would lay a card only to be told "No, no, no can't. This one" and to have another card taken out of our hand, or else one of the girls would lay a card and triumphantly announce that she'd won, though we were never quite sure why. Our confusion didn't matter much, the ice was being broken and everyone was laughing a lot. While we played the girls ate endless sun-flower seeds, cracking them between their teeth and then spitting the shells out into a bag.