"Oh, freedom land, Can you let this go,
Down to the streets where the numbers grow,
Respect Mother Earth and her giving ways,
Or trade away our children's days,
Or trade away our children's days.
Respect Mother Earth and her giving ways,
Or trade away our children's days."
Yosemite. Say the words "breathtaking", "spectacular", "cosmic", or any descriptive adjective and you say nothing. It is something to experience, to absorb and to wallow into otherwise it is just pictures. Oh, but what pictures! Ordinarily, the mind goes to Ansel Adams and his monumental images. But not me. Do you remember your old Viewmaster, you know, the plastic binocular viewer with the wheels of tiny pictures. You clicked the side lever and the picture advanced in the viewer, right? We all had one. Among the reels of images was one of Yosemite. Those reels were pretty indestructible under normal usage and why mine didn't fall apart is a mystery of the ages because that one was my favorite. To me, it evoked the western wilderness of the nineteenth century, it was explorers, pioneers, adventurers and seekers - all people I yearned to be. Now, standing in Yosemite Valley and in the presence of El Capitan, I was inside the Viewmaster and I was hyperventilating.
We awoke at dawn and drove south to Route 140 into the High Sierras. As the park opened up to us, a silence pervaded Big Chocolate. Our final destination was Camp Curry where Amy had reserved their largest cabin weeks ago. And while it wasn't far up the road, it took us nearly all day to get there. It was impossible not to stop and walk around within sight of majestic Sequoias or Half Dome or Bridalveil Falls or the amazing Yosemite Falls or El Capitan. See what I mean? We intended to stop at The Ahwahnee for lunch and maybe a horseback tour but we never did make it, stopping instead for galley-made focaccia sandwiches under the Royal Arches.
By the time we reached the cabin, we were exhausted from the sheer volume of being dazed, or maybe it was the other way around. As the sun set and the clean air surrounded us, the stars emerged in a mystical light. We sat on porch rockers as the sounds of other campers drifted through the forest. Mark got out his violin and I my Martin and we began to improvise on all sorts of Americana themes, from country to cowboy and all sorts of sounds between. Unbeknownst to us, we attracted other campers who sat under the mighty trees. They quietly listened to our music. I only realized they were there when I saw the lit tips of cigarettes appear in little flashes. I understood that we were casting a spell and weaving magic in this holy place. Amy surprised me when she pulled out a harmonica and ably added another texture to the sound. As Santo lay stretched out beneath her feet, I closed my eyes and let my guitar express my feelings. We played for almost an hour before a Park Ranger arrived. He was very hospitable and he thanked us for our impromptu concert but asked that we end it as it was bedtime for humans but not for bears and other sorts of unwanted visitors. We stopped playing and listened as people drifted off. The Ranger asked for our autographs before he, too, walked into the night.
Our cabin was homey and rustic. We stayed up for a while playing whist and getting a buzz before we snuggled into our cozy beds. Sometime in the night, we heard the calls of animals (perhaps coyotes?) and I had to settle Santo down. He decided to hop on the bed and sleep at our feet. In the morning, we rose early and had a good breakfast before hiking down toward the Misty Isles. First, we took the trail to the Ulilouette arriving at an amazing panoramic point which opened up the vast wilderness to us. As we were alone, I passed the peace pipe. Mark found a bear loping through a meadow in his binoculars. We then followed down along the river on the John Muir Trail to Vernal Falls, past rapids and boulder-strewn streams to Emerald Pool, Nevada Falls and Mirror Lake. By this time, we were pretty exhausted and were stopping more often to rest and have pleasant conversation with other hikers. Somehow we dragged ourselves all the way back to our cabin. I walked Santo, showered and collapsed for another good night's sleep. The others actually ate some dinner and stayed up but I was down for the count.
The next morning, we pulled up stakes and drove back west toward 49 North. We stopped for some chachkas and momentos in Yosemite Village and took some group pictures. Heading west through the park was nearly as exciting as driving in. Waterfalls, deep verdant valleys, grand meadows, ancient giant sequoias, all exposed this vast wilderness park as the marvel it truly is - a national treasure. We spoke about the place a lot and I noticed that since we arrived, we'd spoken in hushed tones so as not to invade the tranquility.
I'd wanted to take Route 120 through the Sierras but the road was closed due to rockslides and rain damage. Given the high elevation of this road and the perils of driving it in our bus, it was just as well to travel a safer route further north to 108. Passing through little cowboy villages, you could almost imagine Conastoga Wagons passing by. Good God, this was beautiful land. We took the long drive into Sonora Pass through the mountains (and this was another spectacular passage) to Sonora Junction and Route 395 North. We passed into Nevada at Topaz Lake. Night was falling by the time we reached the Zephyr Cove RV Resort on the southeastern shore of Lake Tahoe but we made it just in time for the last moments of a glorious sunset. By the time we set up, the reflection of the moon upon the water had the makings of a very romantic night. We walked along the shore hand in hand and dog on leash. Several times, I had to stop and take Amy into my arms. Back in the bus, we settled into our beds and made some mad passion. Listening to Mark and Deb in their bed made for a very stimulating soundtrack.
The next morning was a disappointment. We had intended to take a touristy boat tour of the Lake but rain showers rolled in and a mist rose off the lake. Instead, we decided to keep heading north to Carson City, then to Reno and I-80. We considered stopping on the way to visit the Cartwright's Bonanza Ranch out side Virginia City but passed because we could always see them on nostalgia channel reruns. And anyway, they're all up on Boot Hill these days.
Much of this trip progressed slowly since the road was a route of steep inclines followed by riding the breaks down. South of Reno, we stopped to check out Indian ruins and to pick up the vibe. Reno, "The Biggest Little City In The World" seemed like a big honky-tonk. We liked Sparks better because it looked more Victorian and and like the set of a TV western.
We talked about stopping a casino for a very short break and while no one was really wild for the idea, I remembered my previous luck and agreed, Aw, what the hell. What the fuck, it's only a buck, right? We decided to walk in the $100 each and see what happens. After walking Santo and stretching my legs, I joined the others inside. Mark had won $75 and he was done. Amy and Deb pooled their money and were playing different games and they were losing. Finally, they decided to kill their last few bucks at Roulette. This was a good choice. After four spins, they were up about $300 and chose to quit. Walking past the Big Six Wheel, they put twenty dollars down and won another $400 just like that.
Now it was my turn so I did what I usually do to see where I might be sitting on the bell curve at that moment. I hit three Blackjack tables in a row losing at each. At the fourth table, I won back my losses. I figured I was on a twenty-five percent roll so I decided to push one more time. I won two hands in a row and folded. I was $40 ahead and we could all walk out winners. So we did.
As soon as we got into the bus, I asked if anyone would write something down for me. As we tolled back onto I-80 I recited: