Leaning against the low fence, I looked out over the vast open space in front of me. The cold beer in my hand was a welcome relief from the wet, steamy heat that surrounded me. The sweat beading on my forehead rolled aside as I tipped my head back to take a swig on the cool, fresh liquid.
I breathed in the humid air, my lungs filling with the rich Arnhem Land perfume. The grey clouds rolling over the horizon and the slight metallic taint to the air heralded that coming rains. The wet season approached, and with it the beginning of our isolation.
"Dean!" A voice from inside broke my quiet contemplation. "It's ready."
I turned and looked back at the house. "Coming!" I called out.
Neel stood at the doorway, a tea towel over his shoulder like a parody of the domestic dream. The house seemed to wrap around him, a well-designed U-shaped building surrounding a sheltered central courtyard with an oasis of tropical plants.
The building itself was basic, but nicely set out, and the surroundings were like nothing I'd seen.
Not a bad place to call home for 3 months even if we were a little trapped.
I had embarked on this endeavour just 2 weeks ago, after some months of intensive planning. Jobs were tight, and that was particularly so in the entomology field. Seems that when the economy is falling apart, no one wants to spend money on bug research.
So, on one level, this job researching nocturnal insects in the remote Australian Top End was the best that I could find.
On another level, a chance to escape my life for 3 months didn't seem so bad after all.
The last 12 months had been, to quote a late monarch, Annus horribilis. My marriage of 5 years had fallen apart after I found her sleeping with her personal trainer. I think I was as upset by the ridiculous clichΓ© of it all as I was by the look of bliss on her face as she straddled his naked body on our bed.
I then realised that all of our friends were really her friends as they ghosted me one by one. I don't know the exact point at which I had given up on keeping in touch with my pre-relationship mates, but I do remember sitting on the couch realising I was totally alone.
My attempts to be the bigger person and keep the separation amicable just resulted in me losing the house and the car to boot. So, when the funding on my research dried up, I was finally left with nothing.
After some weeks trying to find new employment, this job was forwarded to me by an old mentor. It seemed ideal when I looked at it. All expenses paid, accommodation, travel, food allowance, and a decent wage on top of it. All of that for spending 3 months in tropical northern Australia.
As I looked at the fine print, though, the shine started to wear off a little. The part of tropical Australia in question was around 500km from the nearest settlement, and even that was essentially a roadhouse.
Added to that, the time of year that the insects I was to be studying were most active was during the wet season. That meant the roads would be cut off by flood waters for around 3 months. Once I arrived, I'd be stuck there until the waters cleared.
With the way things were falling apart around me, though, it only took 24 hours of deliberation before I sent in my application. It couldn't possibly be worse than this!
It wasn't a big surprise when I got a positive reply a few days later. I don't think they were expecting a huge number of applications.
The months between that reply, and my eventual trip out here seemed to fly past in no time. The time was filled with orientation, a literature review and all the inevitable logistical arrangements that go into a 3-month expedition.
Thankfully the research team employing me had a lot of experience managing this sort of trip. If it were me alone, I think I would have ended up living on 2-minute noodles and dry pasta for the duration.
Finally, I found myself behind the wheel of a Hilux, driving down the long dirt roads of Northern Australia. Music blaring, I sung loudly out the window, waving to the last of the grey nomads driving their caravans down south before the rain hit.
I was nervous, but full of hope. I was determined to make this work. After such a horrible year, something had to finally go right.
The drive to the research house was an incredible experience. It had been more than 200km since I had last seen another living soul -- well, human anyway. The kangaroos were plentiful out here, and a source of constant worry while driving.
The tropical savanna of Arnhem Land stretched out as far as I could see in every direction, the long, straight dirt road seeming to be the only thing available to provide some perspective.
Waterholes punctuated the drive with some regularity, their deep, moon-like craters dropping down amid the surrounding red dirt. I stopped at a couple to look into their depths, scenes of tropical paradise revealing themselves to my curious eyes.
Finally, I arrived at my destination, dusty and exhausted. My new housemate, Neel, had heard the approaching vehicle and came out to greet me. We'd spoken on the phone a couple of weeks ago, but this was the first time we met in person.
"Well, I guess you're either Dean or you're lost!" his easy smile instantly put me at ease. "Not too many reasons for someone to be all the way out here."
I laughed. "It definitely the furthest I've ever been from civilisation, that's for damn sure." I gratefully took the cold beer that he offered me. "Well, I've driven halfway across the Territory today, I think, and this is definitely the best thing I've seen today!"
I took a huge swig of the ice-cold liquid, the shiver running through my body a welcome release.
"I guess you'd probably like to chill for a bit, but why don't we get your food unloaded first before the ice melts in the cooler boxes, and then I can show you around a bit."
"To be honest," I replied, "if you could point me to the toilet, I could really use a piss first. My bladder feels like it's about to burst, and this beer's not helping." I took another swig to prove the point.
Neel gestured around at the open space surrounding the house.
"For a piss, I guess anywhere's your toilet." He said. "Not like anyone's going to sneak up on you. If you're shy, though, there a toilet at either end of the house, just outside the main bedrooms."
Not sure that my bladder would quite survive a search around the house, I quickly took the first option. Taking a few steps away, I turned my back on him and quickly opened my pants, taking a long, hot piss on the ground looking out at the surrounding bush, as Neel made his way towards my vehicle. The sense of freedom it gave me came as a surprise.
I shook off and zipped up, turning back to the ute as Neel wandered towards the house with a heavy cooler box in his muscular arms. I quickly grabbed a second and followed him inside.
Neel had arrived the week prior, and so, being the senior housemate, gave me the tour. The house was essentially divided into two residential wings, with a shared kitchen and living space in between, all curved around the central tropical courtyard.
"Each wing looks to be set up the same," Neel explained, "with 3 rooms and a bathroom to each side. Since we're the only 2 here this season, I figured we might as well choose the best ones."
As he showed me to my room, it was clear he'd made the right decision. The room was at one point of the u-shaped house and was huge. Large floor to ceiling windows displayed views in 3 directions.
On one side, I could see through the courtyard to the opposite wing of the house. Through the windows on the other 2 sides, I could see for miles. Low vegetation and some trees filled the space, but the elevated position of the house allowed for uninterrupted views.
"Pretty awesome, huh?" he said, taking a swig from his beer as he stood beside me.
"You got that right!" I laughed. "Bit of a change from my apartment in Melbourne!"
He gave my shoulder a quick squeeze as he turned to leave the room.
"I'll leave you to unpack the rest of your things." He said as he walked towards the door. "I've made a start on dinner, so just come and join me in the kitchen when you've had enough of unpacking."
Those first weeks had passed in a blur. My initial couple of days were spent scouting for an appropriate study site, located by necessity near the field hut a couple of kilometres north of the main house.
My research role was simple but time consuming. The study was looking at the nocturnal behaviour of insect communities and essentially required a lot of repetitive observations and recordings. The nocturnal aspect was presumably why the role had been difficult to fill. No one wanted to spend all their nights sitting in the bush watching bugs.
For me it was perfect. I'd always been a night owl, and the time to my own thoughts was a blessing.
I quickly fell into a routine, heading out each night, collecting data, collating it on my laptop in the field hut before returning to the house by about 9am and then sleeping till mid-afternoon.
Neel was working on a project from a different university examining the relationship between fungi and a particular species of native shrub. He was gone each day to his research site off to the south before I returned home.
We had the evenings to be social before I headed off to work again.
It had actually been a nice balance for a new house-mate relationship. We were still in that initial 'polite' phase, no arguments, just friendly chatter. The limited time together helped to reduce any chance of friction.
I turned my back on the gathering storm on the horizon and wandered back into the house at Neel's call. Luckily for both of us, Neel enjoyed cooking, and was quite skilled in the kitchen, so we quickly determined that responsibility to be his. In return, I took on a few more of the cleaning tasks and the arrangement worked well.
I grabbed another couple of drinks out of the fridge as I came in, setting them beside our standard seats at the dining table. The humid air condensed almost instantly on the cold glass of the bottles.
"Looks like the rain's going to hit tonight." I said as Neel scooped generous servings of rich, fragrant curry into our bowls. "I guess we are really in for the long haul now."
"Yep." He grimaced. "No point having second thoughts now. We'd never make it out before the roads flooded."
"Well with meals like this, I don't think I'll be in any rush to leave!" I took a mouthful as we sat at the table. "So good! You really are a wizard with those provisions."