I'd never seen him like this before. He was a good traveler and liked new places and adventure. But this third week in Africa was bringing the worst out in him. Maybe it was the bout of fever he'd had for two days. Or the nagging insects and constant heat. Or the flat, featureless landscape of this last country we'd been visiting.
"I'm bored! How much further?" Steven complained.
"About 20 minutes. You're the one who wanted to hike into the city."
"Because I thought I'd see something," he said, "instead of whizzing past it in the jeep."
I didn't say anything. He'd made his bed, he could lie on it. My own temper was feeling a bit frayed too.
"Really, Marina. We came here to see exotic things and it's been bugs and grass and now I'm spending the day tramping along this ugly dirt road."
I sighed. My husband is wonderful to travel with when he is happy, and miserable to travel with when he is bored. Today, he was bored. Other days he'd been unusually complaining and out of sorts. Sometimes I'd wanted to smack him.
I'd been to Africa several times before and loved its varieties and extremes, but this was Steven's first trip. It hadn't been much fun. For all the traveling he'd done, he'd never been outside of high civilization, and it showed. He'd been behaving like a pampered and spoiled ... well ... brat.
"There's a river," he said. "Aren't there supposed to animals? Hippos or elephants or something?"
"This isn't a tour-guided hike, Steven," I said, exasperated at his attitude. "The animals don't line up to perform for your amusement."
"Well, is the town's famous marketplace another long trip to nowhere?" he huffed.
"I don't know." This particular city would be a new experience for me. "We'll find out when we get there. Probably fruits and nuts, pots and beads for sale. Maybe you can buy an animal if you want." A weak attempt at humor on my part.
Steven thought for a moment. "I wonder if they sell slaves there too," he said.
I shook my head in irritation, for again he was raising the subject of slaves.
We had seen our first and only slave market during our first morning in Africa. We had landed at port after a week-long cruise and were having breakfast in the luxury hotel catering to rich Westerners. The hotel had a covered verandah overlooking the huge marketplace. Breakfast was a leisurely affair, made more leisurely by Steven. We'd only been in the country a few hours, but he'd already run into people he knew from New York and Los Angeles and made the acquaintance of several people staying at the hotel. Somehow, he has a charisma that lets him make new friends easily.
When Steven spotted the naked men being marched through the bustling marketplace, he was so shocked he nearly dropped his coffee cup.
"Those men!" he cried. "They're chained together. And they're NAKED."
Indeed they were. There were about 30 of them, naked except for the bindings that held their hands behind their backs and the ankle shackles that bound their feet. It was a hot day, and their bare feet were dusty and moving wearily from whatever long journey had brought them here, but the four slave wranglers in charge of them used their crops frequently to make sure their inventory kept pace.
Steven, shocked, peered down off the balcony for a better look. "They're slaves being taken to market," I explained as I sipped my latte.
I confess that I'd known there was a slave market in this bustling port city. I'd been here before, though then I'd only seen the market for the women. But it made sense that there would also be one for men, as some buyers had tastes that ran in that direction. The idea of slavery had shocked me the first time too, even though I knew it still flourished, mostly underground, in some parts of the world. Somehow in Africa, with all of its extremes, it seemed natural to encounter it.
And I had even found myself wondering ... What if I had unlimited money to spend? Wouldn't I like to have a slave to indulge my every whim? A fantasy I indulged once in a while. I could understand why other, less civilized people would take the opportunity if they could.
Steven was still speechless.
I looked over the parade of chained men, now mostly past us. "Pleasure slaves, I'd say, since they're all quite good-looking. Nice muscles and firm, rounded bottoms--and their nakedness, of course. It's important to let the buyers see the merchandise."
"Merchandise?" Steven gasped. "But some of those men are white!"
I laughed. Some of the men were indeed white. And Asian. And brown and black in varying degrees. Some were quite slim and some more muscle-toned. Something for everyone.
"Being a rich Westerner wouldn't save you in the slave market, Steven dear. Although with your fair skin and hazel eyes you'd fetch a high price."
Steven's expression couldn't have been more shocked. The son of a prosperous business family in Chicago, graduate of private schools and private universities--a naked slave? The very idea!
Steven pointed to the men at the rear of the parade. "Look how the wranglers are hitting them with their crops. Shameful." His voice sounded more wondering than indignant, and I couldn't tell what he thought was shameful--the men's nakedness on public display or that they were chained and could be cropped.
A crowd of our hotel acquaintances had joined us at the edge of the verandah, some denouncing the display of male flesh and the brutality.
I was more focused on Steven's reaction, which had a strange edge to it. He was nervously fingering the collar of his silk shirt as he watched the pleasure-slaves being paraded, almost as if he was assuring himself that in his fine clothes he was different from the naked men.
His eyes widened. "Some of the men they're passing on the street are... touching them!"
"Disgusting!" "Shameful!" Several of the men and women were leaning over the edge of the veranda for a better view.
One of the women said, "Which one do you think will get the best price?
A man's voice: "The tall one with the muscles?"
"Maybe," said a woman. "But likely the slim blond will get more."
"Do you think he's Swedish, or something?"
"The one with the biggest penis!" A woman's voice shouted out merrily.
"Ha ha, maybe. But some of the buyers really like Asians, so you can't be sure."
"Yes, taste is so subjective." Several of the men and women laughed at that.
Not everyone on the verandah was outraged at the sight of slaves, some seemed to think it amusing.
One of the women had a pair of binoculars and exclaimed, "I think they all have a marking on their bottoms. Look. It's easier to see with the lighter-skinned men."
She passed the binoculars to her husband, who took a few seconds to look closely. "Oh my, yes. I can't tell, though, if it's some sort of temporary ink marking to identify them--or a tattoo."
"Maybe they've been branded!" Another man's voice piped up.
Steven had taken a quick picture with his camera app and was zooming in on each of the men's buttocks. "Yes, that's a brand!" he said quietly, almost to himself. "A kind of star on that one's left buttock. That one has the letter T. I don't know what that one's symbol is, but it's quite exotic."
After a pause, he said very quietly. "I like it."
"So you think slave men should be marked by their owners?" I asked him, as he passed his camera over for me to see.
Steven thought for a moment. "Definitely," he said, "right on their asses."
The women laughed.
One of the women said to the group at large: "Do you think I can post these pictures on social media?" Everyone chuckled at that.
"Maybe there's a sort of National Geographic exemption for male nudity in this case," a man speculated, causing several more laughs.
Steven meanwhile had withdrawn himself to the side and was contemplating the parade of men as it receded into the distance. I followed him to the side.
"Where are they going?" he wondered, half to me and half to himself.
"The slave market inside that building at the end of the street," I replied. They'll be put in the holding pens for a day for open inspection, then put on the auction block."
"The auction block?" he said, surprised. "Like Sotheby's or Christie's?"
I wondered at his naivetΓ©. "Yes, that's the basic idea. Though not so elegant, obviously. Each man is brought out, put on the block, and the men and women bid for them. The highest bidder wins, pays, and then owns."
"Men and women?" Steven was lost in thought for a moment. "Of course. I'd assumed women would be the buyers but there are men who would too."
Steven leaned over the balcony's edge as he strained to see the last of the slaves entering the building. "Can we see the display pens?" he asked, a strange note of needy curiosity entering his voice.
"Hardly, darling. It's not a place for a man like you. Not Western men wearing clothes, anyway," I teased.
He didn't respond to my teasing but stared at the market building.
"And," I added, "with your looks we wouldn't want to tempt them, would we?" I said that flattery mostly to humor him, as he seemed to be getting oddly fascinated.
Steven doesn't take No for an answer, and for the rest of the day he was out of sorts. A few hours later our guide drove us deep into the interior for our first safari, but I could tell Steven was too distracted by what he had seen to enjoy it.
* *
The past few days of our journey had been lovely, apart from my husband's bad attitude. He'd been annoyed that none of his friends had sent him any pictures, although he still hoped something would be posted on social media.
No matter how many questions I tried to answer about the slaves, Steven was never satisfied. As we took our long hike down the river to this next town's marketplace, the subject arose again.
"Tell me, Marina, are there any slave men at this market or not?" he pressed. "The port city can't be the only one in this country, can it?"
"I suppose not. I've heard there's a slave market there, but it's not the sort of thing advertised in the guidebooks. And this town's not as big as the port city, so I don't know for sure."
I let the uncertainty hang in the air between us as we walked.
"But the male slaves we saw passing by our hotel--they had to come from somewhere."
"Yes," I agreed. "Probably there's a network of buyers and sellers, even as remote from civilization as we are now. It makes sense that there would be some sort of market in this town."
He seemed encouraged by that, and I had a sense for where his thoughts were headed, so I added:
"And no, you can't go."