I parked my car in the Glen Doll car-park. My plan was to hike over Jock's Road, an ancient drovers road in the Angus hills. I'd been looking forward to this trip all week. A weekend of solitude and back to nature, very welcome after a week of incessant emails and telephone calls. I spend more and more time at work replying to emails. Even the people who work around me would rather send an email than just come over and talk to me. Never mind, work is far from my mind. Now I'm going to enjoy myself; on my own for two days.
I took a picture of the view from the start of my walk. I'm aiming to walk to Braemar, a village on the Queen's Estate and it's around thirteen miles over the mountains. Not too far but enough to make it challenging. I took a swig from my water bottle and hitched my bag on my shoulders. I was well equipped, even if the weather turns bad, which it is known to do when you get above three thousand feet. There is no signal up here so I switched off my mobile to save the battery.
I was deep in thought as I climbed the steep hill which was covered with evergreen trees. I enjoy trips like this. Yes, it would be better if I had someone to share it with but I don't.
I stopped for a moment, watching a herd of Red Deer. There were some spectacular antlers on some of the stags. I spotted a Royal Stag, a deer with twelve points on his antlers. The rut, the time of year where stags fight other stags for possession of the hinds, was almost over. I watched as they sniffed the air, a little agitated by my scent which was blowing towards them. Suddenly, they took off, leaping in the air as they ran. I saw a pine martin, quite rare and beautiful, darting from tree to tree with the expertise of a squirrel. I could taste the scent of pine coming from the trees, mixed with the smell of dampness on the forest floor.
Eventually I had reached the top of the tree line. Jock's Road is not a tarmac road. It's wild. The ground will be rough grass, heather, rocks and peat bogs for most of the walk to Braemar now. I noticed the wind getting stronger. Unfortunately it was blowing directly behind me, trying to propel me forward with each step I took. I pulled the collar of my jacket up, stopping the wind blowing down my neck.
There were spectacular views of the mountains as I climbed higher and higher. The wind was still strong and getting worse. Once I was on the plateau, it would be easier going. I was sweating under my jacket, this was the only tough part, shortly it will get much easier.
Finally, the ground leveled out. I had reached the plateau. I stopped and took a drink of water. The sky had gradually darkened, grey menacing clouds were forming. 'This could turn into a storm,' I muttered to myself. I'll do another few miles and then stop for a coffee.
The sky was getting darker and darker. I like it when the weather turns into something as doom-laden as this. It makes the hills look so dramatic. Doubtless the rain wouldn't be far away. The wind was making the walk over the rocks a little bit hazardous, it kept buffeting against me, making me stumble.
Then the rain came down and it came down hard. I wasn't concerned, I had a new pair of waterproof trousers and my jacket was waterproof anyway. I stopped and put the trousers on. I was looking for an indentation in the ground which would give me some shelter from the wind. There were plenty areas where the deer had wallowed in the peat bogs, I looked for one that was reasonably dry. When I did, I lit my gas stove, pushing it up against the side of the bog to shelter it from the wind. I made a cup of coffee.
Contrary to popular belief, a peat bog isn't a bottomless swamp. This one was quite comfortable. The deer had dug lots of holes and I was just taking advantage of one. I pulled out my map and compass and took a bearing, locating where I was on the map. Still a few miles to go. I packed my kit and trudged on.
The rain turned to sleet, then snow and eventually it was a complete white-out. I could hardly see my foot in front of me. The wind was ferocious. It was exhilarating to feel the power of the wind and snow. I was disappointed in my new waterproof trousers, I was sweating under them. They were supposed to be breathable.
I found another place which would give some shelter so I sat down, wondering how long this was going to last. Snow wasn't forecast but at the elevation I was at, snow was always a possibility at this time of year. I would give it an hour and see how the weather was before I made a decision to continue. I pulled out my Kindle and started to read.
If anything, the weather was just getting worse. I took another bearing, checking the direction I was heading. It was risky to keep walking in a white out but I needed to move. Provided I keep checking my compass, I shouldn't come to any harm.
The snow was lying and getting deeper, great drifts were forming around me. I kept my head down and continued to walk through it. The wind was gusting at a terrible rate. One gust, worse than the others so far, tore my new waterproof trousers. It almost ripped them off my legs and one tear led to other tears. They were almost hanging by a thread to the elastic waist. I never expected something like that. These were new expensive waterproof trousers, I hadn't even worn them for an hour and they are useless now. I sat down again. Surely it'll die down soon.
My problem was the wind blowing from the north-east, driving the snow into the back of me. With no waterproof trousers, I was going to get soaked very quickly. I pulled my map out. There was an old bothy, Davy's Bourach, about four miles from the car park where I had left my car. There was so much snow falling that I couldn't triangulate my position on the map properly. I only had my compass for direction. From here, I estimated that the bothy was no more than three miles from where I thought I was. I had never been in the bothy before, all I knew was that it had a red metal door, a colour that was easy seen. And I also knew that for some unknown reason, the red metal door opens outwards, I read it in a newspaper article.
I headed in the direction I thought I should be going in. I was confident I could estimate three miles of walking. Nothing for it but to keep going. My trousers were soaking, completely wet through. The wind had a chill factor of at least zero because I could feel my trousers freezing hard against my legs. I'd never seen frozen trousers before. I cannot continue much further with wet and frozen trousers. The effort of walking through the deep drifts was making me sweat and the sweat was almost freezing against my body. I was starting to get concerned.
When I reckoned I had walked three miles I looked around for the bothy. Visibility was still not very good. I was shivering with the cold. I couldn't see anything. I walked round in large wide circles, seeing my earlier foot prints in the snow. I wasn't exactly lost, I just wasn't sure where I was. I was getting very concerned now.
Sometimes, not often, but sometimes the fates throw a lifeline. Just as I was on the point of giving up on the bothy, I saw a red box looking thing. Too small for a door but it's definitely red. I walked closer. It was the door, or at least the top of the door. The rest was buried in the drifted snow. God, that cheered me up no end. I had found it, purely by chance. I had waterproof gloves on, and they were genuinely waterproof. Using my gloved hands, I dug all the snow away from the door. It took ages but I managed it. I tugged the door and it opened.
This was a basic bothy. No fireplace, no furniture and no windows. It was no better than a cave. There weren't even floorboards, the ground was compressed earth and smelled very damp. But, it was shelter and it was reasonably dry and I needed that. I took out my stove and lit it to make coffee with some melted snow. My stove illuminated the bothy in a dull orange glow. It looked dark and foreboding. This place was designed to provide shelter and nothing else.
I took my wet clothes off and hung them from hooks in the roof. I was freezing cold. I took my sleeping bag out and laid it on top of my bivvy bag. I had an emergency foil blanket which keeps in the heat. I wrapped myself in the blanket and got into my sleeping bag, zipping myself up. It wouldn't take long to warm myself up. I berated myself for the trip ending up in an emergency bothy. I was annoyed about my new waterproof trousers getting ripped by the wind. I was annoyed that I was cold and had been caught out with the storm. Still, I was safe in here. My coffee quickly got to work, warming me up. I had some dehydrated camping food which I would heat up later for supper, once I had recovered.