My Cycling Holiday to the Outer Hebrides
Yes! Five o'clock on Friday at last. I finished work and quickly cycled home. I was going on my holidays in the morning to the Outer Hebrides. A long train journey, a cycle run and then catch the ferry to North Uist. My plan was to cycle right down the islands and catch the ferry back to the mainland from South Uist.
All my gear was ready; my bicycle serviced and ready. Pannier bags front and back, installed and ready. One man tent, stove and spare gas, an assortment of dried camping foods, tools and spares, midge net all packed and ready. I even had a small first aid box including vaseline, packed and ready. I was confident that there was nothing I had overlooked. Whatever could go wrong, I was prepared for it. I was prepared for anything.
I could hardly sleep for excitement. This would be the longest cycle trip I have ever made and I was so looking forward to it. Tomorrow was going to be a busy day with many miles to cover. I just hoped there wouldn't be a train strike. That was the only thing I wasn't in control of. I knew the ferries were reliable but the train was not reliable. I would just have to take my chances and hope they were running normally.
I had a quick breakfast and cycled off to the train station. I was going to be on several trains until I got close enough to cycle the last part of the journey to the ferry terminal at Uig. I was hoping there won't be too many bikes on the train. They don't charge you for taking a bike but they can refuse you travel if there are too many cycles. To my pleasant surprise, the train was bang on time and I had the only bike. I secured my bike on the rack and took a seat where I could keep an eye on it.
The train should be a pleasant experience. You have no congestion and you travel through some stunning scenery. It was great to sit back in my seat and admire the views as we travelled to Glasgow. From there, I got another train north to Inverness and then another train to the Kyle of Lochalsh, an eight-hour journey. I was intending cycling from the Kyle of Lochalsh through the Isle of Skye, to Uig where I would get the ferry to North Uist. I had planned my journey well. I would either stay in bed and breakfast accomodation or sleep in my one man tent. It was going to be great fun.
I arrived at the Kyle of Lochalsh in good time and got my bike off and looked around for signs. Ten minutes later I was on my way. It was late afternoon and I wanted to get some miles under my belt. It was a fifty mile cycle to Uig and I wasn't going to make it before dark. The weather was still fine so it wouldn't be a problem to pitch the tent and save some money. I reckoned on covering ten miles and then I would make camp in a suitable place.
I was glad I had the midge net, the air was thick with the biting insects and I would be suffering if I hadn't brought the net. I stopped near Broadford and erected my tent. There was water nearby which I used to make a curry. I watched the buzzards and a sea eagle which flew past my tent. They were stunning birds to see in flight.
Next morning I washed in the stream and took down my tent and got it loaded back on the bike. It was an early start and I was expecting to get to Uig around lunchtime. It was a hard cycle, the wind was coming from the north-east and was in my face for most of the route. To make it worse, there were some very long hilly stretches. I did not make good progress but I got there in time for the two o'clock ferry. A two-hour ferry crossing and I would be on North Uist, where my holiday really begins. It had been a long day yesterday with all the trains I needed to catch, but now it should get much more enjoyable.
We sailed right on time, no delays at all. I was concerned about the wind, it was very blustery. I hoped it wouldn't get worse. In fact it did, barely half an hour into the sailing and the ferry was getting tossed about the high seas. We were told to stay indoors because of the weather although common sense prevailed. It was awful. I sat with my head between my knees. I was sick, badly sick. I made it to the toilets which were full of other passengers being sick. I don't have much of a stomach for sailing at the best of times but this was terrible. I wanted to go home, I wanted off, I wanted something for the nausea. There was nothing to help and no chance of getting off. For at least another hour I just had to put up with it. It was a very long and unpleasant hour.
Lots of yellow-faced, dizzy and sick looking passengers gathered ready to disembark at Lochmaddy. I couldn't believe we had made it. I still felt really bad so walked my bike to the hotel along the road. I checked in for the night and lay on my bed. I didn't move until morning at which time I felt an awful lot better. A full Scottish breakfast would set me up for the day.
By nine o'clock I was in the saddle and heading south. I was in no rush at all, I wanted to see as much of the countryside as I could. It was stunning. I stopped several times to take pictures and reached Benbecula late in the day. There are not many hotels on the islands so I was glad I had the tent and plenty dried food with me. I picked a nice spot, right beside a small loch and pitched the tent. It was a pleasant evening and I read my kindle while listening to the water lap against the banks of the loch. It was very peaceful.
Next morning I travelled further south although I did detour a few times. There was so much to see. I saw groups of men cutting peat. I'd never seen that before. It was like going back in time. In Edinburgh there are not many houses with coal fires, it's either gas or electricity for fuel. However on the islands, it's cheaper and just as effective to use the plentiful supply of peat. Even the roof of the scattered houses on the island were made out of turf from the moorland.
I came to a downward hill and was delighted. It was the first downhill stretch I had encountered. It just felt like I was going uphill all the time. I sat up in the saddle and freewheeled downhill, a big grin on my face. I looked at the scenery whizzing by. Sadly, I didn't spot the pothole and lost control, crashing to the ground. It really shook me. I spent a moment assessing the damage. I had a cut head and bad grazing on my hands and knees. Nothing too bad but it will sting for a while. I had vaseline in my kit which would help. I looked at my bike. The back wheel was buckled and had three broken spokes and a puncture. The puncture I could fix but a buckled wheel I couldn't. I had no spare spokes with me. I didn't expect broken spokes, they were supposed to be strong wheels, built for touring and carrying weight. I was stuck.
I couldn't even push my bike, the wheel was so badly buckled. I took the wheel off and tried to straighten it between two rocks. I just needed to be able to make it turn and then I could wheel my bike to the nearest house.
Benbecula is a very remote island. There are no big towns or cities. There are no bicycle shops, nobody who could repair a wheel. My best hope was to try to get my wheel turning, walk and ask at the nearest house for help. If I was lucky they might have a bike and sell me the rear wheel. I wasn't optimistic, I hadn't seen anyone on a bike since I set foot on the island.
I persevered and finally managed to fix the wheel so it would turn. I had to unclip the brakes but it worked. I couldn't pedal it but I could push it and that's what I did. For mile after mile until I came to what looked like a farm track. It was a long track and I was beginning to think there was nothing at the end of it. There was another track, cutting to the right and I took it following it for about a mile. There, at the end, was a dilapidated farm. For the first time since the accident, I was smiling. Hopefully, and I was praying, they would have a bike.
I knocked on the blue door that had the paint peeling off it. As I knocked, flakes of paint fell to the ground. I was thinking nobody was at home. I wondered if I should wait, but for how long? I took a drink of water and as I was putting the bottle away, the door opened, only an inch or so. I wondered if it was the wind. A voice spoke, 'what do you want?'