I'd been six days on the road on what I'd thought would be an odyssey of self-discovery, hitch-hiking round France visiting old friends, meeting new and interesting people and -- I hoped -- having lots of dirty and uncomplicated sex with willing, imaginative women. It had started so well. I'd renewed an old friendship with a guy I'd known four years before, had two nights of incredible sex with his sister, who'd carried a torch for me all that time, then found myself accidentally falling in love with her and being run out of town by her shotgun-wielding father when he discovered what we'd been doing. OK, so perhaps that last bit was an exaggeration, but it might not have been if I hadn't escaped first.
Forty-eight hours that changed my life. Alana and I were pulled together by her devotion to me and a shared obsession with each other's body fluids, losing our mutual virginity in the process. I was hit by 'le coup de foudre' -- the thunderbolt the French use as a metaphor for sudden, uncontrollable love -- and then it all turned to shit. Twenty-four hours later I was without a roof, standing by the side of a road with my thumb in the air, cursing the heavens and generally feeling sorry for myself. The heavens responded to my execrations by starting to rain.
"Thank you so much, God" I muttered as I pulled my coat around me. Then I realised that I'd been so absorbed in furious contemplation of my misfortunes that I'd been standing there for ten minutes without a single car having passed on the way to the highway, never mind stopping to offer me a lift. And as that bore down on me, a diesel-engined police Renault rumbled to a halt by my side.
"Military service?" the cop who rolled the window down said.
"Yeah." I might as well play the short-hair sympathy card. I had little else left.
"There's been a big crash on the highway just south of here. We've been putting out the diversion signs. Get in -- we'll give you a lift to where the traffic's coming off to follow the new route."
That was unexpectedly heartening from a member of the almost-universally despised Gendarmerie, and it even crossed my mind that it might be a trap. But if I refused it might go worse for me, and to tell the truth I was in such a foul mood that I didn't really care. At least they still thought I was a national serviceman.
I clambered into the car, which U-turned and took me back on the ring road to a spot where a steady stream of traffic was pouring down a minor route indicated by yellow signs. A single traffic officer stood there paying little attention to what was going on.
"There. You guys are doing a good job for our country. Keep those foreign sexual perverts out of our lives. Vive la France!" the police driver said, shaking my hand. His companion pressed a packet of cigarettes on me.
"Merci" I said, and attempted what I hoped was a decent imitation of a French army salute
My first lift was a lunatic test-driving a new Citroen van. At various points he would ask me me to hold the steering wheel steady while he made handwritten notes about the vehicle's performance.
"It'd be easier if we were on the autoroute instead of these bastard country roads, but I've got to do it anyway, so just yell if you see any sharp bends."
I was terrified, but at least it stopped me thinking about Alana.
And yet everything that happened I found myself wanting to tell her about. Even now, forty years later, I often interrupt a voice in my head which is trying to relate to her some odd, engaging, or moving story I've heard or been involved with and which I think would interest her.
We were together for only two days. How is that possible?
The van-driving lunatic eventually had mercy and set me down in some obscure village on the diversion route. It was a relief not to have to fear for my life, and by the time it happened I was ravenously hungry, not having eaten since the previous lunchtime -- and even then only a 'croque monsieur' toasted sandwich at Henri's bar. I ordered a steak at a restaurant in the town square, having first ascertained that my remaining francs would cover the bill. The wine automatically provided with the food helped me relax and be thoughtful, and I started considering exactly what had happened with Alana.
There was no doubt that I loved her. If she'd spent four years developing her passion for me, I told myself that the two days over which this had actually been realised was both an indication of my own emotional illiteracy, and a glorious revelation of what was actually possible when two right people not only met each other but acted on their instincts -- unconventional, distasteful to the common run of people, and splendidly dirty as these might be. Alana was a revelation to me. Surely, at some stage in the not-too-distant future we could be together again. It wasn't unreasonable.
This was the bargaining stage of bereavement.
When I left the restaurant I realised the fundamental flaw in having been dropped in a backwater: there was no way of telling which vehicles on the road outside were trying to get to the southbound highway, and less incentive in a narrow local lane to pull over to pick up an increasingly dishevelled-looking hitch-hiker, military haircut or not.
I ended up following the diversion signs myself until I got to the N162 again. Two more rides took me to Angers.
By this stage of the afternoon the light was rapidly failing. It had stopped raining, and in the newly-cleared sky the sun was attempting to compensate for an overcast day by setting in a bright orange ball, which reflected, dazzlingly in places, off the damp surface of the road. Early evening rush-hour had begun, and there was a steady stream of passing cars, most of whose drivers had no interest in a solitary hitcher who looked as though he might just have escaped from an institution.
Then at a set of traffic lights one of them leaned across his passenger seat and wound down the window.
"Get in" he said. I didn't need to be told twice.
The lights changed and we moved off. The usual question was asked.
"No" I said "I'm English. I'm visiting people I know in France and don't have much money so I'm hitch-hiking."
He reached his right hand across and shook mine.
"I was a prisoner of war. The English liberated me. As far as I'm concerned you're my friend, and if I can help you in any way I will."
For some reason I found this incredibly moving. The Second World War had been over for about 35 years now, but I knew what a huge impact it had made on my parents' generation. He was perhaps a little older than my father, but it wasn't entirely out of the question that Dad had been one of the British troops who'd freed him and his comrades from their POW camp after D-Day.
"My father was a soldier too" I said.