I didn't intend to buy a boat. I had gone down to the coast to look at a cottage that was for sale. After working pretty much seven days a week for almost ten years, I had sold my business and I was getting ready for the next chapter of my life. I was going to try my hand at writing a novel. And I figured that it would be easier if I had somewhere quiet to work, somewhere away from the distractions of London.
On the estate agent's website, the cottage looked perfect. It promised a recently-redecorated interior and 180-degree views of a picturesque fishing harbour. What it didn't mention was that the interior redecoration was dreadful beyond belief. No wonder there were so few interior shots on the website. It also failed to mention that there was a busy A road running immediately in front of the cottage, meaning that the harbour views could only be glimpsed through breaks in the traffic.
'Well, you could get the place redecorated,' the estate agent said. 'It's only paint and paper and a few tiles. With a good team, that could be done in a week.'
'And how would I go about getting that road rerouted?' I asked.
The agent laughed. Nervously.
Oh, well, at least it was a nice fine day, I told myself. I wandered down to the harbour and sauntered along the quay, looking for a café or a pub - somewhere that I could get a cup of coffee and maybe a sandwich. And that's when I spotted the good ship
Aquila
.
Back in my university days, I had done a lot of sailing. There were very few professionals around back in those days. If you were half-handy - and you could manage a week or so away from whoever or whatever paid your bills - there were always more crewing positions than there were available crew candidates. Cowes Week, the Fastnet, the Cherbourg ... yes, I'd sailed them all. I'd also been lucky enough to get over to Antigua a couple of times. I even scored a berth on the Sydney-Hobart one year. But, once the business really got up and running, I had to put all that on hold.
Aquila
looked as though she may have been built as a racing yacht, probably back in the '60s, and had then been converted to a cruising boat when her racing days were over. I thought that she was probably about 38 or 40 feet LOA. She wasn't the beamiest boat that I'd ever seen, but boats were generally narrower back in the 60s. She had a high-aspect-ratio rig with a roller luff spar and what looked like power-assisted winches. Oh ... and she had a For Sale sign.
I found myself a café that served surprisingly good coffee and perhaps the most delicious cheese scones I had ever encountered. And then, restored, I wandered back along the quay. As I've already said, I didn't go looking for a boat, but there was something about
Aquila
. I punched the broker's number on the For Sale sign into my phone and saved it for later.
Back in London, there were still a couple of loose ends to tidy up. 'Another week or so and it should all be done and dusted,' Gerry, my accountant, said. But it turned out that Gerry was being overly cautious. The deal was done and dusted just three days later. 'So, what now?' he said.
'I'm thinking that I might buy a boat,' I replied.
'Really?'
'Of course, the boat that I'm thinking of may have already sold,' I said. 'But I think that I'll give them a call anyway. You never know.'
As it turned out, the boat hadn't been sold, and, a couple of days later, I went back to have a proper look at it.
My guess that it had started out as a racing boat turned out to be correct. 'Sparkman and Stephens,' the broker said. 'Good pedigree. And the subsequent refit was carried out at the Arnold & Hammond yard and supervised by Trevor Arnold himself. Again, pretty top drawer.'
We took it for a test sail and, maybe it wasn't perfect, but it was pretty damned good.
'Where can I keep it?' I asked the broker.
'Does that mean that you want to buy it?' he said.
It turned out that the broker also had a 42-foot marina berth on his books. It wasn't cheap; but, in the grand scheme of things, it wasn't that expensive either. I made an offer - subject to survey. The broker made a couple of phone calls. And, a couple of weeks later, I had a new home - for the summer, anyway.
I spent a few days getting to know
Aquila
; brushing up on my seamanship; and getting the hell of the hi-tech navigation and coms equipment (which was practically unrecognisable compared with what we had had 20 years earlier). And then it was time to take on stores for my shakedown cruise.
My plan was to sail out of Plymouth, down around the corner, across the Bristol Channel, and then up the western Welsh coast to Anglesey. I planned to spend about three hours each morning writing. After that, I would sail at a leisurely pace until I came to a suitable overnight anchorage. And the following day I would do it all over again.
A week into my cruise, I had covered a bit over 250 nautical miles and I had produced almost 11,000 words. Things were going well. But then, a couple of days after that, the writing hit a brick wall. Maybe writing every day was not such a great idea after all. I decided to allow myself a day off.
My Day of Rest dawned fine. There was hardly any breeze, but what there was was from the west-southwest - perfect for a gentle reach along the coast. I made myself a pot of coffee and some toast, and studied the chart to see where I might drop anchor later that day. There seemed to be at least three or four possibilities; but, in the end, it would probably depend on the breeze. As someone - Jonathan Raban, perhaps - once said: 'The wind is a mad travel agent.'
I began my day's coasting feeling vaguely guilty about neglecting my writing duties. But, by 10:30 or so, I had shed all guilt and I was thoroughly enjoying the sensation of
Aquila
making a steady six or seven knots with sheets eased.
At midday, I was only about three hundred metres off the coast, although the depth sounder was still showing plenty of water beneath the keel. And that's when I noticed a little horseshoe bay that didn't even seem to make it onto the chart. I sailed past the entrance and then came about and sailed past a second time. Yes, I thought, that looks worth a visit. It was only just past midday, but it was my Day of Rest. If I wanted to fritter it away, I could.
As I nudged
Aquila
through the heads, I realised that the bay was even smaller than I had thought. It was probably no more two hundred metres across. I dropped the pick and checked the depth sounder. By my calculation, we were almost at low tide and there was still plenty of water.
From out beyond the heads, I had noticed a house or something tucked behind the trees above the rocks at the back of the beach. But now, anchored in the bay, I could only see the rocks and the trees. It was perfect.
I secured the sails, grabbed a towel and a bottle of water, clambered over the transom and into the inflatable dinghy, and pulled for shore. With my back to the shore, the scene before me was reminiscent of a postcard from some idyllic haven in the South Pacific. I wished that I had brought my camera.
Once on the little sandy beach, I pulled the dinghy well clear of the water and secured the painter to a large, conveniently placed rock - just in case. Then I slipped out of my shorts and went for a swim. It may have been the Irish Sea, but the water was almost Mediterranean warm.
I spent about five minutes in the water, swimming, floating, and just generally larking about. And then I spread my towel out on the sand and lay down, leaving the warmth of the sun to dry my naked body.