"We need another memory card," Bill said to Laura. It was their first trip to Japan and they were in danger of having no more memories available. Laura had proclaimed if they didn't have a picture of it, it didn't happen. Bill had taken nonstop shots in an effort to please his wife.
"Okay, we can go to one of those six-floor stores all over the place," Laura said.
"I think Mt. Fuji is different than Osaka or Tokyo. It's a resort town and smaller. I don't know how easy it will be to buy something there," Bill replied.
"If it's a resort town, they'll have camera equipment."
"I think we can scroll through and delete the bad shots but I'm just going to let you bask in your logical genius. Just don't get any of that oozing pride on me," Bill said with a grin.
They arrived at an inn featuring a public bathing area called an onsen. Laura read about them during the vacation-planning period and an onsen was one of her absolute must-do activities. She learned about them and thought the idea was wonderful. She was a sucker for bathtubs as it was.
"So, it's a public bathhouse. You go in, shower and get clean and eventually get into the pool. Everyone is already scrubbed and clean so they don't dirty up the water. Oooh, and it's a thermal hot spring from Mt. Fuji itself.... Herself? Whichever. They have hot and extra-hot pools in some places. Oh, sad, ours doesn't. But still, isn't that fun?"
Bill smiled as she kept talking. He liked his wife excited about their trip. They had been working on it for months. Now all they had to do was learn how to act locally so they didn't offend anyone by being rude Americans. They learned quickly and found everyone willing to teach and forgive their mistakes.
They arrived at the inn in early afternoon. The woman at the front desk spoke excellent English and directed them to their rooms. Bill and Laura learned to don their robes earlier and were quickly settled.
"I'm going to check out the napping capabilities of the tatami mats," Bill said. He rolled over and was snoring within 30 seconds. Laura sighed and walked out of the room. It was November and the windows were open in the hallway. A beautiful clear night shone through and brisk, cold air poured through the inn.
A sign in front of the ladies' onsen showed a big hand stopping Laura from entering. She panicked, calmed down, and strode to the front desk.
"Good evening," she said to the young woman at the front desk, "I have a question about the women's onsen."
The woman struggled with her words and Laura patiently waited. The woman's written command of English was slightly better than her verbal skills and she wrote down some words that didn't translate well.
Laura sighed. The woman's onsen was closed for the night. Whatever the problem was, it was enough that no one could go in the area. Disappointment flooded her face. The receptionist apologized and invited her to try again in the morning.
"We go United States in morning. No Japan."
The girl shook her head, saddened Laura couldn't try onsen. It was the one thing she wanted and she was surprised at the empathy from the receptionist. Laura perked up, an idea in her head.
"Onsen are man and woman in Tokyo, hai? I go man onsen?"
The girl thought a second, understanding spreading across her face. She frowned.
Laura learned co-ed onsens were not forbidden or taboo. She used gestures, patience, and creative vocabulary to learn that another woman did not enjoy her soak and the men in the onsen were very rude to her. The other women chose not to try after hearing the story of the first one. No one was touched and nothing terrible happened but the receptionist kept using the word rude to describe the men.
Laura was torn. She wanted to do this so badly. She had experienced a few topless and nude beaches before. She wasn't afraid of her body or especially shy but she didn't know the culture. She felt like an outsider and didn't want to seem stupid or be embarrassed.
Still, she wouldn't have this opportunity for a long time.
"Arigato gozaimus!" she said, bowing to the receptionist. She was bid thank you and good evening back. She turned and headed to the room.
And turned left to the small alcove of the men's onsen.
She breezed through the doorway into the small front room. There were four sinks and small baskets on various shelves around the room. She took her sandals off and put them underneath her basket. A man walked into the room from the pool as she started to pull the belt off her robe. He had a small washcloth on his head and he was naked. She froze, confidence draining out of her. He walked to his basket and took the washcloth off his head. He saw her and his eyes went wide.
"Hoi!" he said, shocked. His hands went to cover his crotch. He looked completely confused and looked around, eyes still wide.
She greeted him good evening in Japanese and turned back to her basket. She pulled the belt off her robe.