It is the last day of our vacation in Paris.
"What shall we do?" I ask my wife and daughter.
"Let's go to the Louvre one last time," my wife says. She loves the Italian Renaissance, especially Da Vinci.
"Oh no!" my daughter whines. "Not that old Mona Lisa again!"
We had been in Paris for most of August. That had meant a trip to the Louvre every week!
"If I never see that painting again it will be too soon!"
My daughter had turned 13 this summer – too young to be on her own, too old to want to follow her parents around all day. And I knew about French men and their love of fresh young girls. I wasn't letting her out of my sight!
"How about going to a concert at Notre Dame?" I say. That was MY favorite pastime. I had gone every evening there was a free concert. The first one had been the last one for my wife and daughter. It had been a modern piece of music, with accompanying psychedelic slide projector show and lots of percussion.
"No thank you!" my wife and daughter say in unison.
"Well, let's not spend the day sitting in this apartment!" I say, and we fill our water bottles, pack some left cheese, and head down Rue Hautefeuille towards our favorite bakery – a hole in the wall on Rue Saint-André-des-Arts. We pass the little movie house at the corner of Rue Serpente.
"Hey, look," I say, pointing to a notice on the doors of the theater. "It says the movies are free today!"
I go inside to ask why, and make sure I hadn't mistranslated the sign.
"C'est le rentrée des étudiants," the lady says, "the return of the students. The city pays for the movies, to keep the students off the streets before school starts on Monday."
"Et les touristes?" I ask.
"Yes, yes," she laughs, "it's free for you, too!"
"C'est très bien, très bien. Merci!"
I return to my family with a big smile. "It's free today! Something to keep the students from getting into mischief before they go back to school. How about we see the new animated movie about the rat?"
"You mean Ratatouille," my daughter corrects me.
"Yeah, that's the one..."
"Sounds good to me," my wife says. "It's air-conditioned!"
August had been hot, our apartment doesn't have air conditioning. It was a contentious subject, especially when several hot days in a row would heat through the thick, stone walls. The rock would radiate heat day and night. And since our apartment was on the top floor, the ceiling would get hot, too. "That's why this place was so cheap," she would snort, reminding me that she would have preferred an air-conditioned hotel.
"Is the movie VO?"
Version originale (VO) meant the movie was not dubbed, but subtitled. For an American movie, that meant we got to hear the movie in English instead of dubbed in French. I checked the marquee.
"We're in luck! VO!"
We decide to go to the first afternoon show, when it will be hottest outside. In the meantime, we walk down to the bakery and get our favorite loaf of bread, a baguette.
"Never more than two hours old!" Christine tells us, the owner of the bakery.
"Why make it so often?" I ask.
"Nobody would eat baguettes more than two hours old," she huffs, indignant, as if I had insulted her.
"I'm getting some apple pastries, too," my wife says. When I give her a typical French look that indicates she is eating the wrong thing at the wrong time, she pleads, "It's our last time!"
Her pout is so Parisian that I cannot not resist.
"Trois chaussons aux pommes," I say, careful not to add "s'il vous plait."
I had learned from every shop in Paris, "Non, non, monsieur, if it pleases YOU!" I once asked a waiter at a cafe why he took so long to get me a coffee. He said, "Well, monsieur, you told me to get you a coffee, if it pleased me. I was hungry, so it pleased me to eat something, before I got you your coffee." "How should I have asked?" "Cafe, maintenant!" he barked. Then he smiled. "It is my job to please you, monsieur, your job to tell me what you want." I was never able to bark like a Parisian, but I did stop asking, "s'il vous plaît"!
We take our prize lunch and walk to the fountain at Place Saint-Michel. It is crowded with noisy tourists and littered with wrappers from MacDonald's and Starbuck's. Someone had put soap into the fountain, again, turning the pools into bubble baths. We walk across Boul'Mich, then through the crowded restaurant district of the Quartier Latin. We stop to have our lunch at the Square René-Viviani, looking across the Seine at Notre Dame.
Finishing her cheese and bread, my daughter says, "I'm going to say goodbye at Shakespeare's." She heads over to the English language book store. Though not the same place as described in Hemingway's A Moveable Feast, the bookstore keeps alive the mystique of the original Shakespeare & Company – a book store which lent books to Hemingway (because he couldn't afford to buy them) and published James Joyce's Ulysses.
"I'll come with you," I say, following her. I have seen the young men employed at the bookstore. They are writers and poets who work in exchange for a place to sleep. These male philanthropes were always generous enough to offer a place to stay to any young girl entering the bookstore alone. I often imagine coming back to Paris, alone, and working at Shakespeare's, sleeping with a new conquest every night. Ah, the writer's life...
I got to the shop just in time to hear the cashier ask my daughter if she needed a place to spend the night.
"Not tonight," I say, taking her by the elbow and leading her towards the back.
"I'm going upstairs," she says.
"I'm right behind you."
"Daaad! Please!"
She turns and stands defiant on the stairs. Neither of us moves for several seconds, but I can tell she isn't giving in.
"Don't be long," I say, taking a step back. She turns and bounds up the stairs. "I'm right here," I call, but she has already disappeared.
She isn't long, but does look a little flushed when she comes back down.
"Who do you know here?" I ask.
"Daaad!"
She slips past me, walks quickly to the young man at the cash register, says "goodbye", then leans over the counter and gives him a kiss. She runs outside. I give the young man the evil eye, but he just winks and smiles at me. I follow my daughter outside, where she is in the arms of her mother.
"Let's go to the movies," she says. "I think it's getting a little warm."
I walk behind the two most important women in my life, and realize my little girl is growing up faster than I was accepting it. When we get to the theater, I resolve to be more trusting.
"You can sit by yourself," I say, but it sounds wrong, like I don't want my daughter to sit with us. "I mean, if you want to."
"Daaad!"