The thing wrapped around his ankle. Every foot kick was slowed down. With mild panic, he yanked his foot until it slipped off and disappeared into the vastness of the water around him. All he could see from the netherworld beneath his neck was a blue-green surface. Tiles of blue-green were separated by white lines of foam, some simply ripples running through the water, some crests whipped by the ocean breeze.
Another slumbering giant of a wave came in. The massive body of the wave rolled on slowly, almost obscuring that it was another six foot surge that lifted him high. The wave let him down slowly, while it raced onward to the beach. The sandbank pushed the wave high. The tip sharpened to a menacing threat. Two seconds later, the tip slammed down into the surface. The entire beach vibrated from the megatons of water pounding down. The skirmish of white foam raced to the beach.
Anton was still treading water beyond the break, where the water was jolly and safe like in a pool. He smelled the mix of rotting Kelp and thick sea salt in the air. The winter water temperature were around 50 degrees. The blood was rushing to heat his body giving him alertness. And his butt cheeks felt so free with the water slushing around them and through the butt crack. His board shorts had been carried sideways and wherever by the current underwater. There was no more turning back.
He was butt naked with no clothing or towel in reach. A beach full of evening visitors was ahead of him. There was a thin line of visitors that had come clothes to the water and were fighting their way through the wet sand. Beyond a long expanse of loose sand was the boardwalk. The boardwalk was primed with a busy crowd of groups meandering, people on beach cruisers, rollerbladers zipping in between, and gaggles of people around the public restrooms and fast food stations. Beyond that lay the bustling beach city. 14 blocks in was his house, the safe spot.
His heart skipped a beat. There was the big emptiness of a lack of heart beat followed by the heavy thumping of a single huge beat that made him weak in the knees. His lips were shivering. The winter ocean was draining his body of warmth. The timer was running down on how much longer he could stay out here in the safety of being naked in public without anybody knowing.
The waves were flat all the way out to the beach. They were in between sets. He looked out to the ocean. Weak waves were running in. He kept swirling his limps to stay afloat. There was the mixture of adrenaline making him feel sick to the stomach and excited about life. There was the mild hypothermia that hurt and made his mind dull, the beauty of calming a busy mind. He slowly paddled into position for the next set coming in.
The sea was dragging out with the lack of waves pushing in. The water was swirling hard around his body, when he crawled hard. And then the first small wave came in. The next was a monster. The looming and dooming face of it grew as it neared him. The menace crested dangerously.
He pushed with all his vigor. The wave grabbed him with forceful forklift arms, ripped him six feet into the air. The wave crashed the next moment. The wave tossed him back down into its belly. Tons of water piled on top of him. A civil war broke out among the water with its warriors pushing and running into every which way. Helplessly, he was torn around. His limps were pushed around like a ragdoll. Even his mouth was helplessly ripped open with salt water freely gushing through his mouth and nose.
His lungs were shut, clinging onto the air they had left. Two seconds later, he stabilized his body into a long plank position with the left arm raised overhead to mimic a long board. He was shooting through the water like a torpedo. The roiling white water ripping on his skin, face, hair, cheeks.
Two seconds, five seconds, seven second, nine seconds, he had to squeeze his throat tight against the urge to breathe. He was still deeply under water. And with painful quickness, the sand rubbed against his underside like sandpaper. He pushed his limps against the solid land to get out of the grip of the wave to escape the searing pain of the skin being filed off. There he was naked on his knees in the sand.
His butt was bared. He had a scrawny butt. He was 6' 3" and 175 lbs. He was athletic, yet the scrawny type that didn't have an ounce of extra fat. His chest had ripples from his ribs poking through. His arms were covered with tattoo sleeves. There was the Russian mermaid riding a submarine. She hugged the submarine. The submarine was shooting torpedoes. There was the line drawing of his first girlfriend reclining seductively in tattoo studio in Arkhangelsk, a freezing cold city at the White Sea, where he had been stationed as a young nineteen year old.
He was acutely aware of his groomed penis hanging between his legs. The area was shaved smooth. The cold water had made his penis shrivel. A couple was walking nearby with their arms around each other. They had a little dog walking with them, which was illegal at the beach. She was chubby and wore old leggings, like one of those inland people.
Wet sand was over half of his body. The water was running out to the ocean past his hands. The water was taking sand with it. His open palm was sinking into the sand. He pushed himself standing, like a sprinter, his body stood diagonally in the air, while he launched forward into a sprint. The woman jumped and screamed in surprise. "Pinche cabron!"