The Maharajahs' Express arrives on time at 10 a.m. at Bikaner station. The city of Bikaner is surrounded by the Thar desert in the North Indian state of Rajasthan, east of the border with Pakistan. Sansa and Emily, accompanied by Sudesh and Nilesh follow a guide holding a sign that indicates the tour will visit the Lalgarh Palace while others have opted for a local city tour.
Seated inside the air conditioned limousine the guide tells them: "Lalgarh Palace is a palace and heritage hotel built for Sir Ganga Singh, the Maharajah of Bikaner, between 1902 and 1926. Lakshmi Niwas Palace is a part of Lalgarh Palace, but it has been leased for use as a heritage hotel. The palace was built in the Indo-Saracenic style and was commissioned by the British-conrolled regency for Ganga Singh while he was still in his minority as they considered the existing Junagarh Palace, which perhaps you will visit this afternoon, unsuitable for a modern monarch. Ganga Singh decided that the palace should be named in memory of his father Maharajah Lall Singh."
As the guide leads them around the palace, he tells them: "The palace was arranged around two courtyards with the first and most impressive wing, Laxmi Niwas being completed in 1902. The remaining three wings were completed in stages with completion of the complex accomplished in 1926. Lord Curzon was the palace's first notable guest. Ganga Singh was legendary for his shikars (hunts) at his hunting preserve at Gajner, in particular, his Imperial Sand Grouse hunts at Christmas. As a result, the palace hosted many guests including Georges Clemenceau in 1920, Queen Mary, King George V, Lord Harding, and Lord Irwin. The palace was originally designed to cost 100,000 rupees due to the planned use of cheaper materials including the suggestion of using stucco instead of carved stone in the construction. However all cost-cutting was abandoned in favour of the finest materials for the widespread finely carved stonework and the cost increased to 1 million rupees".
He continues: "The three-storey complex is coated in red sandstone quarried from the Thar Desert. The complex contains the features considered essential for a late 19th-century palace: drawing rooms, smoking rooms, guest suites, several grand halls, lounges, cupolas, pavilions, including a dining room which could seat 400 diners. The complex features magnificent pillars, elaborate fireplaces, Italian colonnades, intricate latticework and filigree work. The Karni Niwas wing houses the Durbar hall (public audience) and an art deco indoor swimming pool. I will allow your most excellent selves to explore at your leisure and remain at this spot to guide you back to the limousine".
After taking lunch on the train, at 2 p.m. everyone goes on the tour of Junagarh Fort in a motorcade of limousines. Emily, Sansa, Nilesh and Sudesh are in the leading limousine with a guide that tells them: "The city of Bikaner is known for the 16th-century Junagarh Fort, a huge complex of ornate buildings and halls. Within the fort, the Prachina Museum displays traditional textiles and royal portraits. Nearby, the Karni Mata Temple is home to many rats that are considered sacred by Hindu devotees". Emily decides the rat infested Temple isn't for her and from the look on Sansa's face, not for her either.
At the fort, the guide tells them: "Junagarh Fort was originally called Chintamani and was renamed Junagarh (Old Fort) in the early 20th century when the ruling family moved to Lalgarh Palace outside the fort limits. It is one of the few major forts in Rajasthan which is not built on a hilltop. The modern city of Bikaner has developed around the fort. The fort complex was built under the supervision of Karan Chand, the Prime Minister of Raja Rai Singh, the sixth ruler of Bikaner. Construction of the walls and associated moat commenced in 1589 and was completed in 1594. It was built outside the original fort of the city, just under a mile from the city centre. Some remnants of the old fort are preserved near the Lakshmi Narayan temple".
He continues: "Historical records reveal that despite repeated attacks by enemies to capture the fort, it was not taken, except for a lone one-day occupation by Kamran Mirza. Kamran was the second son of the Mughal Emperor Babur who attacked Bikaner in 1534, which was then ruled by Rao Jait Singh. The 5.28 hectares large fort precinct is studded with palaces, temples and pavilions. These buildings depict a composite culture, manifest in the mix of architectural styles. I am here for any questions you may have". He finishes by offering each person an information leaflet.
After they have visited some spectacular rooms and chambers of the fort and former palace, they make their way back to the dropping off point, where a convoy of SUVs awaits them. They embark to travel over the dunes to Camp Rajputana arriving at 5:30 p.m. The camp is laid out along military lines on a large square of levelled sand. On three sides of the square there are pitched 5 large tents for guests staying overnight, which doesn't include Emily's group. The remaining side of the square is occupied by tents for the staff, for stores etc. Inside and in front of the guest tents are tables arranged in a large U shape with 10 chairs on each of the three sides and a place setting for each.
Sansa & Emily agree that they wouldn't want to be cooking at a bar-b-que in the heat of the desert, even though, as they take their places at the table, the sun has just dropped below the horizon. The temperature isn't so hot as it was at the Junagarh Fort and they have been informed that the temperature will drop rapidly as night envelopes the camp. The stars above are a glorious sight viewed from such a dark site. The romance of the evening is palpable and so many remark on it.
