Sometime late in the night, there's noise in the cell block and I wake up with a start. An awful stench fills my nostrils. I'm sharing my lockup with a drunk who has been sick in the cell and all over himself too. It smells so bad that I start to wretch dry heaves. Damn, I hope my bodyguards Alphonse and Arturo show up early in the morning to get me out of here!
Then I see two passed out drunks being dragged to the holding cell next to mine. They're sick and moaning miserably. The light comes on in their cell and I recognize them- my two guys, my bodyguards!
I wanted the cops to let them know I'm in jail so they could get the room and rental car keys. But it didn't happen, and the stupid asses drank themselves half to death, probably blowing all their money on girls at the bar. Now we all have a new home tonight. I fall back to sleep on a rough bench wondering about tomorrow.
In the morning, a cop comes rattling big keys to let them out. They're free to go, so I give them the motel key and tell them to bring the car while I stay for some questioning. The duty cop sits across a small table from me with a pen and a pad of paper.
"So, why were you out by those trucks behind the bar last night?"
"I told the guys who brought me in that I had to piss."
"You can do better than that! Come on, or we'll be here all day. I'll get paid but you won't."
"OK. OK. I'm Wesley Bruce Arundel, Head of Acquisitions at the Peruvian National Museum of Archaeology in Lima. Here's my card."
"Really! Be serious. You look more like a truck driver to me."
"It's just a disguise..."
"Then why were you sneaking around the parking lot of a rough bar, Mr. Arundel?"
"Ancient artifacts are brought into Brazil and sold to international collectors. I think truckers are somehow getting them out of Peru, and I came here to see if my hunch is right."
"Hmm....You should have said that last night instead of sleeping in here."
"I didn't get a chance. Not with a pistol stuck in my back."
"We can't take any chances over there. It's a mean area. Anyway, you're free to go now, but don't go back there. Clear out of Rio Branco. Go back to Peru and let the police look after your problem."
"Yes, we'll go this morning. I'll wait here 'til my buddies come back with the car."
He's curious about the artifact smuggling, so we talk over a coffee. As I tell him more about my trip up to the Peru-Brazil border region, it's clear that he doesn't know anything about the problem. Drugs and human trafficking, yes, but the illegal trade in cultural pieces, no. I leave him with my contact information in case anything turns up.
Eventually Alphonse and Arturo are back. We drive over to the motel room we never slept in, and use it to shower, change our clothes, and eat some breakfast. My bodyguards are badly hung over, so they load up on juice and headache pills. We finish up with black coffee, load our things into the car and leave. There's nothing more to do in Rio Branco.
"We going back home now, right Jag?" Arturo asks hopefully.
I don't reply at first, so Alphonse speaks up.
"You're going the wrong way, boss!"
"We're on our way to the last stop, Porto Velho."
"Hey... where's that?"
"In Brazil."
"How far?"
"About eight hours following the bus route."
"Shit, man! We'll die before we even get there! My head is pounding."
"Just don't puke in the car. We'll stop every few hours and get there tonight."
"Come on, Jag. Give us a break!"
I look straight ahead and don't say anything, so they slump back trying to fall asleep. Soon they're out like a light and stay that way while I drive through increasingly tropical terrain on the paved road to our last stop in Brazil. We can't get there soon enough
After a few hours I pull into a small town for gas and the brothers wake up. A stretch, a drink, and we're on our way again with Arturo driving. I'd like to catch some sleep, but my body guards are feeling better, and start to brag about their escapades the night before.
"Mine was so hot! She was like a rabbit- every way possible!"
"Nita, she was more a vacuum cleaner. I never had one like her, and she couldn't get enough of me!"
"Maria was an awesome lay. And I gave it to her so good that she's probably hoping I'll be back tonight for some more!"
"Mine told me nobody was better, that my dick was amazing. I turned her inside out with it, man!"
It's hard to listen to this.
"So, do you private room studs have any money left, or did these girls get it all?"
"I still have some," one of them claims while the other one just looks away.
"How much?"
"Enough for a few beers, maybe."
"And you?"
"Can you lend me some until we get back, Jag?"
I have to laugh at them. They're burning through money fast, but having the time of their lives. I just hope they aren't bringing home some disease picked up from all these hookers.
All their bragging passes the time until we take another break. Stepping outside the car, we can feel the oppressive heat and humidity of late afternoon. A heavy rainstorm should be coming soon. Alphonse takes over driving and I climb onto the back seat to sleep after the rough night I spent on a hard bench in jail. I drop off quickly and wake later to driving rain pelting down on the roof.
"Hey! Pull over, Alphonse! I can hardly see the road," I order and he finds an area where there's some space. A minute later a line of three big transports barrels by, driving much too fast. They might have run right over top of us if we were still on the road. We're unnerved and wait until the peak of the storm has passed before starting out again.
The sun is setting when we begin to see some farms and plantations, a sign we're nearing Porto Velho. An hour later we're looking for a cheap motel for the night. We've been on the road so much that I've already decided to get a plane out of here, leaving the rental car behind. The brothers are delighted.
There's no surveillance and no more bars that first night- instead we fall into bed and don't move until the morning sun streams through the threadbare curtains. There's a coffee place nearby and we've still got some food left. Life is good this morning, far better than at this time yesterday.
Porto Velho is pretty much the end of the line for good road transportation in this region of Brazil. Much traffic is loaded onto several long, three-level ferries which ply the Madeira River, a large western tributary that feeds the Amazon. Four or five days ferry travel downriver leads toward Manaus, where many central Brazilian routes converge.
I want to find out more about the transfer of people and goods between land and water transport at Porto Velho, a city of a half a million. Many people here live in the sullen neighbourhoods that surround the wealthier central city. That's how it is all through Latin America, where ramshackle homes often form a grimy ring around a upscale city core. It's a place ripe for petty crime. I wonder if it supports major smuggling activity and human trafficking?
In the morning we arrive at the ferry terminal, and split up to get a sense of how the whole transfer operation takes place here. I want Alphonse and Arturo to watch opposite ends of the terminal, while I go inside to ask questions. It's the same approach we used at the Puerto Moldonado Customs impound terminal in Peru.
I quickly learn that staff at the ferry dock are focused on efficiency. They don't like too many questions.
"Tell me where I get a ticket to Manaus."
"Over there."
"Its for a transport truck. Can I go on board with a big vehicle?"
"Just in the centre lane."
"Is there cargo inspection?"
"No dangerous loads are allowed."
"How much does it cost?"
"Depends on length and weight."
"Will I have to wait long to go on?"
"Sometimes, but later today works."
I continue like this for a few more questions before she loses patience with me and tells me to go to the ticket office if I need any more information.
A few minutes later, I meet up with my bodyguards and they report seeing Intercontinental Freight trucks at the terminal, one of them being unloaded at present. We go over to the area to casually observe what is coming out of the trailer. Is it us, or do these people seem suspicious, taking great pains to ensure that no-one can see what is being taken out?
Now they're eyeing us watching them, and somebody comes to tell us to "shove off!" We stand our ground, then a couple more come over so that we're three on three. A few more drift in, outnumbering us now, and threatening to move us if we won't move ourselves. One big guy picks up a tire iron and wields it in a threatening way.