Michael is a good friend of nearly 20 years. We grew up together, and have stayed in touch over the years. Michael is a driven professional, working hard, playing hard, and not knowing much in between. This is based on a story he told me, told here in first person, about a crazy experience he had on a recent trip. The names have been changed, but gist of the story remains true to the telling.
*****
We met at Kozy, a nice little breakfast spot in Paris. We were on the early side, but before long the place was hopping. It looked like a combination of locals and tourists. I noticed the locals just grabbed coffees or smoothies and ran, while the tourists grabbed seats to eat their croissants and avocado toast.
I was with my sister, Eve. She had divorced several years back, and it took the last few years to really get her footing back. Her husband, a generally nice guy, turned dick during the divorce. Eve held her ground, and while it was an expensive process, it was worth it. Eve was able to see her teenage daughter graduate high school and head off to college.
Eve was making a good living, and decided it was time to get out a bit. While she wasn't ready for much romance, she was ready for some adventure. She decided that Paris was just the ticket. That said, Eve didn't want to make the trip alone.
Simply put, I was available. My twenties were filled with multi-year relationships that amounted to nothing. Typical millennial issues really, we wanted the most of everything, and found we ended up with the least of most things.
So I had poured myself into work. I had a knack for dealing with people, and parleyed that into a sales position at a startup tech company. We did well, not Facebook or Google or Apple well, but we all rode a nice wave. As I reached my mid-thirties, the wave crested, and the owners sold to a big dinosaur of a company that wanted to be hip.
The result was I given a nice "package" to stay on. The buying company was smart and kept the key salespeople, which kept the pipeline of revenue coming in. The money was good, enough for me to put a down on a condo. But I was pretty burnt out, having put my all into work the past few years. So I negotiated a leave of absence, two months, to just chill.
I'd never taken more than a week off, so when sis asked if I'd like to come with them on the trip, I thought, what the heck. Eve and I had always been close, much closer with each other than with our oldest sibling, Frank. He was cordial, but distant. He lived a simple life in the Midwest somewhere, and we got nice holiday cards from him and his family once a year.
But Eve and I were closer in age, and she was a few years ahead of me. She helped me get through puberty and high school, and I helped her get through the rough years of divorce.
Eve booked us a private tour guide for this first day in Paris, and we'd agreed to meet her at Kozy that morning. To be honest, I could have stayed at the café and watched Paris go by, while drinking my 4 Euro coffees. Sometime near noon I could have just switched to wine, but no, Eve was ready to take in the sights and sounds and smells of Paris.
My ambivalence to getting up changed when Marie walked through the door. Marie was our appointed tour guide. We had no idea it was her, but somehow she knew we were the clients, and she came right over to our table.
"Hello, I'm Marie," she said, in just enough French accent to seem real, but not hiding the fact that she spoke perfect English. "I believe you are Eve?"
I know there was some conversation and small talk. I couldn't tell you a thing that was said. I am pretty sure we all introduced ourselves, offered her a coffee, and what not. But I didn't hear a thing.
It's not that Marie was such a beauty. She was very attractive, but not in a model or celebrity way. In fact she was kind of plain by our jaded American standards. She wore a simple short-sleeved blouse, and a long flowing skirt. It was quite bohemian, but in a way that wasn't forced. Her hair was long and dirty blonde, and blew in the wind just like her skirt. Not really sure there was any wind in the café, but in my mind there sure was.
Marie didn't appear to wear any makeup, which added to this laissez faire appearance. Maybe she did, but if she did it was minimal. Her skin looked as though she spent time outside, but not enough to do damage. She had a beautiful color that indicated time in the sun, or possibly some Mediterranean blood in her ancestry.
The attraction was more with the way she carried herself. There was a confidence about her, but not arrogance. She seemed very comfortable with who she was.
After the pleasantries of early conversation, she suggested that when we were done with breakfast we would take on the city.
"We want the hors d'oeuvres version of Paris, today," I told Marie, to which she laughed, understanding exactly what we wanted. She checked her notes from our online booking, and gave us her thoughts on an itinerary for the day.
"Entrees later, good plan," she said.
I paid the bill and we gathered our stuff-purses, backpacks, and hats.
We walked a few short blocks to the Champ de Mar, the park just southeast of the Eiffel Tower. It offers a fantastic view of the Tower, which Marie told us was our focal point for the day. Whenever we felt lost or unsure of where we were, she would either point to or reference the Tower, and we'd know where we were.
We purchased Metro day passes at the nearby station, and began a whirlwind tour of the city. Eve wanted to see the sights, but was not particularly interested in staying anywhere long, and neither was I. We were there for the week, so we wanted to use the day to get into the vibe, learn our way around, and use that to decide where to go later in the week. We opted not going up the Tower in the morning, figuring we'd do that later or another day. Instead, we wanted to get the lay of the land.
We bused over to the Arc de Triomphe and did the obligatory walk around. From there we headed down the Champs-Élysées. Marie was quick to point out not only the expensive shops, but the nouveau riche racing their Ferraris and Maserati's up and down the boulevard.
Marie quickly bonded with Eve, as if they were longtime friends. Marie was great at showing us the cool flower markets hidden on the side streets, as well as the crazy expensive shops in the Golden Triangle.
Eve had mentioned feeling a bit American, which Marie assured her was a good thing, but suggested a trip to this tiny shop a few blocks from the end of the Champs could change her feelings. The shop, Vintage Madelaine, was a second hand women's clothing shop adored by locals and tourists alike.
Marie let Eve go on for a bit, then finally stepped in.
Turning to Eve, in almost a whisper, "Do you want to look French?"
Eve blushed, but shook her head 'yes'.
"Eve, I think you should try one of those scarves," said Marie in an inviting way. "On warm days we don't think of scarves, but on cool evenings a Parisian woman would not be caught without one."
"Then, my dear, you need shop for something that you love, something to make you happy, and worry about no one else. That is the French way." And with that, she quickly whipped through a couple of racks, grabbing a handful of things.
"A dress maybe, or possibly a skirt and a cute top," said Marie.
"Like yours!" yelped Eve, giggling.
Marie ruffled through the clothes once again, and pulled a few things.
"Go try these, and don't show us unless you love what you have on!"
Eve retreated to the dressing room. Eve was deep into the rack of scarves. They might as well have been in heaven.
"Michael, you like your wife to wear scarves?" asked Marie.
'"Ah, wife, no, ah, I mean she's not my wife," I said, fumbling for my words. "She's, ah...she's my sister."
Surprised, "Oh, my goodness, I had that all wrong," said Marie "I am so sorry!"
We both laughed, a most relieving laugh.
"Eve is divorced, and she asked if I would come to escort her on this trip."
"That was very nice of you," said Marie. Pausing, then continuing, "And your wife didn't want to come, too?"
"No wife," I countered. "Not yet, anyways."
With that Eve came out of the dressing room, wearing a black floral skirt, just above her knee, and a white cotton top, collared, with the sleeves rolled up.
"In that you don't just look French, I think you have become French," said Marie, much to the smiles of Eve. Success in shopping...this would be a good day.
Eve made her purchases and we headed out. Marie took us across the river to the Left Bank area, and we found a wonderful outside café called the Café Rue de Lille. We ate, drank, and laughed as Marie shared stories of Paris: the great masters of centuries gone by, Paris during the occupation, and secrets of Paris today. It's that something extra you get with a private tour guide. Like a good masseuse, she listened to what we said, but she let her senses of our needs guide the way. The late afternoon was a whirlwind of walking and seeing...Notre Dame, Pont Neuf, Shakespeare and Company Bookstore...and then some.
The afternoon turned to evening, and we ended out tour as we walked across Pont Arts. We reached our Air BNB, and began to say our goodbyes. Everyone hugged, and we felt as though we were leaving a dear friend.
"Do you have any recommendations for someplace for dinner nearby?" I asked.
"Oh, I'm beat," said Eve. "I think I'll have a glass of wine, and hot bath, and put my feet up for the night but you should go."
"Spoken like a true Parisian!" said Marie.
"I'm a bit hungry, so maybe is there just a small bistro nearby I can grab a bite in?" I said. "I'm too wired to hit the hay."
"There is a great little place just up the way, the locals love it," said Marie.
"Can you point the way, it sounds great."
"I can do better, it's on my way home, I'll walk you there."
We made sure Eve made it into the building okay, and then headed north. Marie seemed, well, a bit more friendly now, not that she wasn't friendly, but she was 'off the clock'.
"Do you get tired of Paris?" I asked as we walked.
"No, never. I have been a tour guide for more than 7 years, and done more than 1000 tours, and I still love sharing my city with people, like you."
It was well into the evening, as Paris is in the summer, yet the dark of night was still not upon us. In Paris during the summer, late afternoon/early evening seems to last forever.
"Here we go, Au Petit Fer à Cheval."
Just then a voice called out, "Marie!" A young Frenchman came over and kissed her cheeks, saying something in French I couldn't catch. She responded in equally unintelligible French.
"He says, he can give you a table right over here, in the best spot"
"Marie, would you care to stay for a glass of wine, or maybe dinner, with me?" Wow, where did that come from? I mean, I know I was thinking it, but I thought I was too scared to say it, but out it just came out.