Principle 1: (Do not) Book a lonely vacation
I first met HIM in Jordan. In August. Jordan is a country in the Middle East. Sandwiched between Syria in the North, Saudi Arabia in the South, Iraq in the East, and Israel in the West. Unlike its neighbours, Jordan is not an oil-producing country. So, it does not have an oil-rich economy. It is, what is known as, a lower middle income country.
Why did I travel to Jordan? Well, I have been to the Middle East before -- to Dubai and Abu Dhabi for instance. But after I was body-shamed on social media, I yearned for solitude. I wanted to get lost. I wanted to disappear.
The reason I chose Jordan was its history. One of the oldest societies in the world, the earliest human habitation in Jordan dates back to almost 2,00,000 years! Its ancient city Petra was the capital of one of the many Arab kingdoms. Petra's ruins, 2300 years old, still remain almost intact, unravaged by time.
But that was not the only reason I chose Jordan. Petra was not my destination. I wanted to lose myself in the turquoise blue waters of the Red Sea. And situated on the banks of the Red Sea is Aqaba, Jordan's only port city. And my destination.
Principle 2: (Do not) Be ready to meet an annoying stranger at the airport
There are no direct flights from India to Jordan. The easiest way to reach Aqaba is to go via Dubai, or Abu Dhabi, or Kuwait City, or Bahrain. From there, another connecting flight will take you to Jordan's capital Amman. From Amman, a 6 -- hour 338 km drive through the Desert Highway (also known as Highway 15) takes you to Aqaba.
There are domestic flights between Amman and Aqaba too. But I had read so much about the Desert Highway and how fascinating the ride is, that I decided to book a cab from Queen Alia International Airport in Amman.
That was where I first met Him. At the Immigration Counter of Queen Alia International Airport.
My immigration check was over and I had collected my luggage. I went over to the Prepaid / Postpaid SIM card kiosks located right outside the immigration counter. And stood confused.
There were 3 kiosks of 3 separate service providers -- Zain, Umniah and Orange. All 3 providing identical services for the same price. I could not make up my mind which prepaid SIM card to buy.
"Go for Zain, they have the best coverage," said a voice behind my back.
I turned around and saw Him. A tall, handsome, clean shaven, relatively young man, carrying a laptop bag on his shoulder. He had no luggage. And He looked Indian.
I said nothing. Since childhood I have been a rebel. In spirit as well as in action. I don't like being told what to do. Certainly not by a stranger. I went over to the Umniah kiosk, showed them my passport, and asked for a prepaid SIM.
"Bad choice," the voice said again. "Umniah has dodgy connection, especially if you are going to Aqaba."
I felt mildly irritated. This is not how I had foreseen the beginning of my vacation -- with unsolicited advice from a stranger. I frowned and replied, "I will take my chances."
"As you wish," He said and went past me outside the exit door. I got the new prepaid SIM installed in my phone. It cost me 10 JD (Jordanian Dinars).
Next stop was the prepaid taxi kiosks. And the charges were exorbitant. The lowest fare was 150 JD. One JD is equal to 117 Indian Rupees, so the entire ride from Amman to Aqaba would set me back by almost 18000 Indian Rupees!
I kept thinking whether the desert ride was indeed worth that amount of money, whether I should have booked a domestic flight instead. And then I heard Him again.
"Hi there!" He waved from the driver's seat of a car inside the parking lot. I was surprised that He was not in a cab.
"Going to Aqaba I suppose?" He smiled and asked.
"How do you know?" I replied with another question.
"I overheard you saying that Aqaba is your destination at the Immigration Check In," He smiled again. "I was right behind you in the queue."
Huh! An eavesdropper. I wasn't impressed.
"Why don't you hop in? I am going to Aqaba, might as well give you a lift," He said.
"Thanks, I will take a cab," I declined Him politely.
"A cab ride will burn a hole in your pocket. And you have no one to share the fare with," He continued to persuade me. "I can see you are travelling alone."
"My problem. None of your business," I had to retort a bit rudely now. This guy was getting on my nerves.
He took off His sunglasses, extended His right hand out of the driver's window, and said in a softer tone, "Alright, lets start over. I am sorry I haven't introduced myself yet. I am Raj."
I hesitated for a second, but decided to accept his handshake. Not doing so would have been rude. "Hi, I am Payal."
"Nice to know you Payal," His handshake was warm and friendly, firm but soft, reassuring and comfortable. "We are both from India. May I request you to share the long ride to Aqaba with me?"
His insistence should have made me suspect His intentions. But it didn't. The only response I could give was, "How come you are in a car and not in a cab?"
"Well, I live there. In Aqaba," He reached into His wallet and pulled out a visiting card. "My family owns a car dealership there."
I looked at the visiting card. His name, address, and the name of a Ford car dealership was mentioned. As well as His contact number and email ID. But it wasn't reassuring enough.
"Um... I don't know..." I was looking excuses to avoid His invitation.
"Look, its broad daylight now," He probably sensed my reluctance. "And if it comforts you, I could give you my driving licence and car registration. You could take pics of those and send to your family and friends."
He pulled out His driver's licence and car registration and put them in my hand. I was taken aback a bit by this gesture. It wasn't too bold or grand, but unexpected nevertheless.
He had a Jordanian licence and His car was registered to Aqaba Governorate. I took pics of those on my phone but didn't send to anyone. None in my family knew about my solo trip to Jordan. And I intended to keep it that way.
Principle 3: (Do not) Accept a lift from the stranger
I warily kept my luggage in the boot of His car. It was a massive Ford SUV. Must be from his own showroom, I thought. Jordan has left-hand drive, so He was seated on the left side at the front. I took the right seat and fastened my seatbelt.
"Nice car, very spacious," I tried to initiate a conversation as He began to drive.
"Thank you. Its the latest model of Ford Explorer Platinum," He replied with pride. "I took the 1st one that came to my showroom."
A Ford car dealer. He must be rich. His car looked rich. He had Oakley shades on, and an Omega watch on His wrist. He LOOKED rich.
"So, which city in India are you from, Payal?"
"Gurgaon. Its near Delhi," I replied, not sure if He knew much about Delhi.
"Aha! Gurgaon, the Millennium City! Is it as awesome as they publicise it to be?" He asked.
"Nope. It has the worst traffic congestion in India," I said, "and its roads turn into rivers after just 2 hours of rain."
"Really? I haven't been there. Ever," He expressed genuine surprise. "I have been to Delhi, though. On many occasions. In fact, I am just returning from a business trip to Delhi."
I was curious now. Was He in the same flight as mine? "How long have you been staying in Jordan?"
"Well, my parents migrated from India when I was a child," He said. "But I completed my Bachelors from Delhi University. Then I went to Kellogg School of Management in the U.S. for my MBA. And now I look after the family business."
We started chatting a bit more about our backgrounds, families, His days in Aqaba, my days in Gurgaon. I was gradually opening up to Him without realising it.
He was easy to talk to. A glib talker. Always put you at ease. Never uttered a wrong word. Charming and polite. Cultured and erudite. I started liking Him more and more.
By now, we were outside Amman and had reached the Desert Highway. The 1st word that escaped from my mouth was, "Wow!"
"Yeah. Its breath-taking, isn't it?" He seemed equally excited. "The colour of the sand changes after every kilometre. I have driven thousands of times on this highway, but have never been bored."
He was right. The colour of the desert did indeed change after every 10 minutes or so. From yellow, to golden, to dark brown, to light orange. Miles of desert on both sides of the highway -- golden yellow on the left and orange on the right. I had no idea that deserts could be so beautiful. I started taking pics.
The long metal highway swerved and curved like a black snake in the middle of this golden yellow landscape. The sky above was blue, pure pristine blue, with tiny white clouds floating like cotton balls. There was no sign of any pollution anywhere. Nor any trees.
"Which hotel are you staying at? The Hilton Double Tree?" I was so engrossed at watching nature's beauty that His question somewhat startled me.
"Um... no. I have booked an empty apartment on Airbnb," I replied. "Its cheaper and offers more freedom than a hotel."
"Wow. You have guts," He blurted out. "Alone on your 1st trip to Jordan, and staying alone in a vacant apartment?"
I didn't reply. I knew I had come here to disappear. To spend time alone. There was no need to explain my decision to Him.
"Are you here for business or pleasure?" He was curious now.
"Neither," I replied and didn't want to elaborate.
"Lonely traveller, seeking solitude. Are you?" He asked playfully.
I looked into His eyes. Or rather, His Oakley sunglasses covering His eyes. Did He make a wild guess? Or was it just an impromptu remark? I kept mum.