Thanks to Ravenna933 for her copyediting and plot development suggestions.
*****
I woke to the call of prayer blasting through the hotel window. I groaned and rolled over, checking the clock on the nightstand. It was just after 6 AM, and I remembered this least favourite aspect of sharing a bed with Rania, the necessity of all Muslims to rise with the sun for morning prayer. Hearing the call to prayer through the window while alone was a shock, though, and just reiterated where I was, thousands of miles from home, in a hotel room in Muscat, there to see my ultra-long-distance now-girlfriend.
After the call to prayer stopped I must have fallen asleep again, because soon after my alarm was going off. I got up, got dressed and headed downstairs to meet the girls for breakfast.
We found each other in the breakfast bar of the hotel, with a free spread easily surpassing anything I'd seen at comparable hotels in the west - fresh fruit, dates, coffee and tea, pita bread with hummus, fresh cheese, a ground meat dish called
keema.
I greeted Rania and her friend Khadija, loaded a plate, and sat down with my quarry.
"So, what's the plan for today?" I asked, knowing they were deliberately keeping me in the dark as much as possible.
"We are going to take you first to Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque", Rania answered. "It's only open for non-Muslim visitors for a few hours in the mornings, and you will have to make sure you are dressed conservatively. It's the largest and most beautiful mosque in the country, apparently, and it is also the only one open to non-Muslim visitors.
"We're trying to finish with the city of Muscat today, because much of the beauty of the real Arabia is out in the wilderness. But we also have some shopping we would like to do, and we're going to make sure you've experienced the real modern Arabia, not just the part that's reserved for tourists. We're going to go to the mall, and then go wander around in the suburbs, out past the airport, where the ordinary people live, so you can see the way we live at home. If the weather looks good, we might also be able to find a place to swim.
"Then, after dinner we are going to drive to a new hotel just east of town, so that we can avoid rush hour traffic tomorrow leaving the city. We'll check in there, and..." Rania lowered her voice. "We have some plans for you at the hotel."
"I wish we could do that first", Khadija interjected, "but the mosque is only open until 11, so we have to get there soon. Whatever was bothering me last night seems to be gone."
We quickly finished breakfast, checked out of the hotel, and as I pulled out of the parking lot, Khadija, sitting in the front seat this time, turned to me.
"Ryan, I think we got off to a bad start yesterday. I am just so unused to speaking frankly to a strange man, and to letting my guard down around men. This cultural conditioning really doesn't wear off overnight, in spite of the fact that I've tried so hard for so long not to let it hold me back. I'd like to start over with you."
"Sounds good", I answered. "I'm Marion Kershaw, but my friends call me Ryan."
Khadija offered her hand. "Khadija Al-Shehri."
"For what it's worth", I continued, "I never thought less of you. Rania was just as nervous as you were at first. You saw her at the end of her trip to Canada, but not during. It took her time for her to grow comfortable with me."
"I know", Khadija said. "You didn't really know her before. But she was a different person when she came back. She didn't want to tell me about you at first, but I could tell something major had happened over there. I finally got it out of her that she had had a Canadian boyfriend, a male roommate, all things I wouldn't have believed possible. But the more she told me about you, the angrier I got. Not at her, I was happy for her. But at my society convincing me there was something strange about it. I mean, you are just another person. Men and women are just people.
"I had, what I guess you could call a crisis of faith. I felt like I had always suspected my society was lying to me, and I finally had my proof that my suspicions were true. I wanted to abandon my Masters degree, my entire life, and make a run for a border somewhere and escape to the west. It was Rania that convinced me to stick with my thesis, that my work on feminism in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was important, and that we needed to make progress at home. But I needed to experience that world, and I still don't know that I'm ever going to get to do that. Saudi women can't travel without a male relative's permission, and my father, bless him, is a wonderful man and a liberal man, but he is still a Saudi father and I am still his daughter. And the odds of me meeting such a liberated man in Saudi seems unlikely."
Khadija's words cut deeply through me. I knew what Rania had gone through, but I hadn't considered what it must be like for the people like Khadija in such a conservative society; for women without a way out. "So..." I was at a loss for words. "So what will you do?"
Khadija smiled. "I rebel in my own ways. I wear makeup. I speak up for myself at school and I don't defer to men. I sometimes let my hair show through my headscarf. I speak up politically in defense of feminism and women's issues. And I'm going to live the life of a wanton western girl, this week, with you, because I know I can trust that you'll never breathe a word to anyone that could hurt me with that knowledge."
"Your secrets are safe with me", I promised.
"We know", Rania called out from the back seat. "We really do appreciate your discretion."
The Grand Mosque was out in the city's western suburbs, lying adjacent to the highway on manicured grounds, an opulent marble building with massive minarets and a high dome. The grounds were mostly empty apart from a few Indian labourers in coveralls tending to the gardens, and I signed the guestbook upon entering, the security guard nodding sleepily at my conservative long sleeves and dress pants.
We wandered the grounds in relative silence, first checking out the small, understated women's prayer hall, and then the opulent men's, one of the most impressive spaces I'd ever been in, featuring a seven-storey chandelier, Islamic tilework on the ceilings, and an enormous Persian carpet so ornate that it had a second, protective carpet covering it in spite of the fact we were all forced to leave our shoes at the door.