So there we were, all five of us back again in the bar at the old Hotel Patagonia, sitting at a table under a really useless, squeaking ceiling fan that turned no more than about one revolution per minute. Since there was no air conditioning, we all usually chose cold beer to drink. That's what one does in the tropics -- drink cold beer.
The year was 1983, and we were all young then, in our early 20s, foreign correspondents in South America. It felt like being at the end of the earth. It practically was.
But we weren't the kind of reporters whose stories you would read in The New York Times or watch on the nightly news. Those were the celebrity journalists, the A-team. We were free-lancers, since none of the major newspapers thought us experienced enough to hire. If truth be known, we were all fresh out of college and in pursuit of adventure, but with no portfolio to speak of.
We were set apart, on the fringe, frantically searching out stories to sell, one at a time, to various publications. We competed against one another. The money was a pittance, and most of it went toward kamikaze bus travel and cheap hotels. We were nomads, outliers in a strange land. And the thermometer reading was 94.
Tristan was from Australia, Klaus from the Czech republic, and myself from L.A. We were writers. Of the two women in our group, Lovise was from Denmark. Then there was Hadwigis, whose name none of us could pronounce. So she accepted that we called her "Berlin," which is where she was from. Both women were photographers. One by one, along the way, we had all become friends, as well as rivals. And we always seemed to beat a path back to The Hotel Patagonia.
But this isn't about foreign correspondents traipsing the globe. It's about Lovise. And it's about being in the tropics and being in love. For me that is.
Admittedly, it's also about Lovise's new friend, the elusive Anastasia, who was a little older than us, maybe in her early 30s. I was beginning to fall in love with Lovise, but thoughts of Anastasia kept me awake at night.
This much I know: there's just something about being in the tropics. Sex is in the air. Desire permeates everything. Then there's the heat. And those black, breezy nights.
And, to think, this all began because Lovise took a bath with me.
* * *
Hours before joining everyone in the bar, I had pulled into the hotel after 15 days on the lower Amazon River, 400 dusty miles away by Land Rover, gathering information for a story about river dolphins -- no joke. Most of the others had already checked in. I grabbed a room and desperately needed a bath. I was pungent. My clothes smelled atrocious.
Depending on your point of view, The Patagonia was either a decrepit, godforsaken hovel on its last crumbling legs, or a fine example of old-world architecture with its interior archways, high, high ceilings, ornate tile floors and windows that were almost floor-to-ceiling, which one kept open all the time since there was no air conditioning. The rooms seemed cavernous but had little in them other than a bed and a small table and chair or two. And one of those useless, squeaking overhead fans.
The Patagonia was in the middle of Montevideo's old section and had a quaint, colonial feel, with vines hanging over the second-floor balcony, dropping down toward a narrow, cobblestone street below. And real shutters on the windows. Very vintage. I loved it. Except for the heat.
In the middle of the floor of my room, I unbuttoned, unzipped and peeled all my clothes off, then turned on the faucet to the cast-iron, clawfoot tub in the bathroom. There was no shower. And it was there, while I was soaking, that Lovise walked in. Not even a knock on the door.
"You got the last room, Jack. Did you know that?" she said as she walked straight on in to the bathroom. I should have mentioned that some of the doors to the rooms didn't lock. And did I mention that I was naked?
"So I'm going to stay with you until a room opens up," she said, looking down at me in the water and very unimpressed, I feared. She wasn't asking permission as she walked back toward the bed to unload bags, photo lenses and camera cases on the mattress.
Before this, we had never been more intimate than sharing a beer downstairs in the bar. Nonetheless, it didn't seem to bother her that I was naked.
Must not have. Because a few minutes later she was back in the bathroom, stark naked herself, and climbing into the tub with me. She sat at one end, me at the other. The faucet, strangely enough, was on the side rim of the tub. That's South America for you.
Upon seeing her for the first time, someone once said of Lovise: "She appears to have won the gene-pool lottery."
I could see what they meant. She was undeniably captivating. For some reason, I was drawn to her hair, dirty blond and always tied up at the back of her head, in kind of an up-do, a French braid, exposing her neck, with wisps of hair falling down. It gave her this perpetual wind-blown look that $300-an-hour stylists do nowadays for celebrities. And I'll have to admit a preference for necks and bare shoulders. Lovise had a long, slender neck and perfect shoulders.
However, after she sat down in the water, I was caught off guard as she drew her knees up and opened her legs, resting each leg against a side of the tub. She had no pubic hair, which for the 1980s was strange indeed. Actually, she had shaved it, and a blond, barely visible fuzz was just beginning to grow back.
"The less hair you have, the less chance of lice," she said, watching me watching. "It's a trick of the trade that women learn in the tropics, especially if you're going to be mucking around the rainforest. You might try it yourself, Jack." I suddenly felt terribly self-conscious as she stared down at my dick, catching its movements as it was becoming engorged.
The blood was rushing in, not just because I was looking at my beautiful naked friend, but because I had never seen a woman's vagina so completely visible before. I was transfixed on her gorgeous slit. It made her seem so pink, so vulnerable. And even more breathtaking.
"Do you ever cut yourself shaving it?" I asked nervously, immediately wishing I could take back the stupid question.
"No, but my last boyfriend cut me accidentally," she said matter-of-factly. "Took two weeks to heal. He laughed about it. Always remember this, Jack. I don't like boyfriends laughing at me. I tossed him. So there you are." I made a mental note.