...geography, philosophy, history, nothing
social anthropology a lot of nothing...
- Tuli kupferburg
*****
A LOT OF NOTHING
Christmas Eve. I took the ferry over to the French Quarter. I just wanted to experience the Vieux CarrΓ© when it's quiet. Didn't see how it could be much quieter than Christmas Eve. A stiff wind blowing down Royal Street makes it feel cold, though the temperature is almost 50 and the sun's out. The ferry was crowded this morning with last minute shoppers headed to Holmes or Maison Blanch or wherever, and 9-to-5-types dragging themselves to their offices, their hearts full of hope the boss will let them out early. They should be glad they don't have my boss: he's sending me to Kansas City for Christmas to cover a football game. The regular NFL writers didn't want to go. Anyway, I hope to get out of sports soon.
The Vieux CarrΓ© is quite calm. The drunks from Texas and the Midwest, who come to throw up in the gutters on Bourbon Street are not here. I think they're waiting for the Sugar Bowl next week.
As I pass the TV station I decide to say Merry and Happy to the news folks. The station is located in a maze of buildings between Charter and Royal. Eighteenth century on one side and 1948 on the other. After checking in with the receptionist - Gestapo type with big tits - I walk across the courtyard to the news offices. Margot smiles as I walk in. "Merry Christmas," I say. "Can't wait for it to be over."
"And a Merry Christmas to you, Mr. Scrooge," she says. "Don't be such a cynic."
Margot, now in her 40s, is the lead producer for just about all the local shows. She jokes about being the first French Quarter hippie: Ken, the station manager, says that one day in the 1950s, she wore jeans to work, and before he could admonish her the station owner walked in and mentioned what a nice ass she had. She has worn jeans every day since, though her nice ass is a bit on the large side these days. Still, she's one of the nicest people in the world, and highly competent in a medium known for its incompetence.
"I was kind of hoping you'd drop by today. This is my friend from New York, Emily Fischer," she said, turning in the direction of a blond, academic type sitting on her desk. "You studied anthropology, didn't you?"
"Yes, that's why I'm a sportswriter."
Margot ignored by sarcasm: "Well, Emily and her husband are in the anthropology department at Columbia. She's the department chairman and he's the star."
"Your husband must he Munro Fischer. Mayan stuff, I think. I read one of his books in an archaeology class."
"Well, I'm not quite as well known," Emily smiled.
For a few minutes we discussed anthropology. I was graduated only a few weeks ago, and I knew nothing about "the anthropology of women," her specialty.
Margot and Emily have known each other since graduate school, and they get together whenever Margot goes to New York or Emily comes to New Orleans. Emily was to meet her husband this afternoon for a romantic Christmas in New Orleans, at least that's what Margot said - Margot does all the talking, all the time.
After saying my goodbyes, I walked over to the sports desk down the hall to say hello to Wayne - he's going to Minnesota to do the Viking and Cowboys - then to the studios to talk to the camera guys and techs before exiting out to Chartres, and walking over to Napoleon House.
I stand at the bar and ask for a shot of brandy and a cup of coffee and chicory to warm me up. As it arrives I look over by the tall French doors that open onto Rue St-Louis, and there she is sitting alone, Emily Fischer.
"Dr. Fischer, I presume." OK, it was a bad joke. "May I join you?"
"Certainly, Mr. Strange." She was either kind enough not to laugh my bad joke or she missed the joke altogether.
"Mr. Strange is my father. I'm Jack."
"It was a pleasure to meet you. . . Jack."
And thus began what was to turn out to be a fling - for lack of a better word, - with Dr. Emily Fischer, Ph.D.
I was cold sitting at the French door, but Emily didn't seem to mind a bit. In fact she seemed to relish it. She was wearing a navy blue sweater, which she filled nicely even if such filler was frowned upon in academic. But the dark blue sweater and the blond hair with its sparkling silver highlights. She has a Mayan necklace around her neck, actually a pendant of sorts worn on a silver chain. She was, of course, wearing jeans, which incidentally fit rather well, almost snug. And boots with high heels, the kind obviously popular in northern climes like New York but seldom seen here except on go-go girls and 14-year-olds trying to look 20.
We picked up the boring conversation we had begun earlier about the anthropology of women. I had no idea what she was talking about. I told her I wanted to study The Intermarriage of Transsexual Mennonites with Upper Class Hopi Indians, 1850-1852. She agreed it was a good topic.
"Can I get you something," I asked. "How about an espresso and a Calvados?" They drink that in France instead of breakfast, I think."
I signaled to a waiter, who after ten minutes of staring at the hot-dog vendor in the street, came over and took our order.
"So, what are you and your husband planning to do this week? Whoa, that's a bad question. I mean what are you planning to see and stuff."
"Well to tell you the truth, we're not doing anything," she said. "I didn't tell Margot, but Munro isn't coming back for another two weeks."
"Ouch! That much work still to do?"
"I'd like to think so, but I know better."
"Sorry. I really don't know what to say or do."
"Well you could stay here and talk to me for a while."
So we talked. At least I talked. This time we avoided anthropology, and concentrated on talking about the French Quarter, New Orleans and Louisiana. We had another round of Calva - skipped the coffee this time - and I talked away. I was sure I was boring the hell out of her with my minutiae, but I just kept on going.
"May I buy you lunch?" she asked. My Southern Gentleman objections were met with, "Well, I'm not a Southern Belle, so I can pay."