At two o'clock in the afternoon, I boarded the Tirupati Express from Chennai Central station to Tirupati for the 90 mile journey that I fully expected to take almost four hours. Indian trains are not renowned for their speed but at least I had a First Class, Air-Conditioned ticket and the compartment was relatively empty. I settled back with a book and prepared for departure. I had just completed a hectic week of business meetings all across India, finishing in Chennai. I decided to take a few days off before returning to the UK and it made sense to seek out the slightly cooler climate in the hills around Tirupati. I gazed across the platform at the mass of humanity that was still scrabbling to jump on board before we set off and found myself giving silent thanks for the relative tranquillity of the First Class compartment. However, as often happens in these situations, I had given thanks too soon. There was a flurry of activity, the train door was flung open and a flustered female voice shouted in English, "Is this train going to Tirumala?"
"Yes," I replied, "or as close as you can get by train."
"Come along Julia, this is the right train," she yelled. I watched as a porter loaded several bags into the carriage. I stood up to offer my assistance just as the whistle trilled and the train began to shudder into motion. With a final surge, the two women jumped on board and slumped exhaustedly down on the two seats across the table from me. I put their suitcases onto the luggage rack and resumed my seat. "Good afternoon ladies," I said. "Shall I call the steward to fetch you a drink?"
"That's very kind, a couple of gin and tonics would be nice," replied the first woman.
"I'm not sure if they run to that but I'll see what I can do." I wandered off in the direction of the restaurant car. When I returned, I explained that they were on their way.
"That is so kind of you," she replied. "But you must think us very rude. We haven't even introduced ourselves or thanked you for your help. I'm Angel and this is my friend Julia. We are from the USA." She offered a hand which I embraced gently and said, "Not at all, my name is Robert and I am delighted to meet you."
The woman giggled and exclaimed to her friend, "Julia, he's British. Just get that accent."
I turned to Julia and offered my hand. She took it and fluttered her eyelids, "So lovely to meet you," she whispered breathlessly.
Angel, or Angela to be more formal, explained that they were on the last leg of a tour around India and heading to Goa for a week on the beach. However, their travel agent had persuaded them to go via Tirumala so that they could see the Venkateswara Temple. "Did you know, it's the site of the biggest religious pilgrimage in the world?" she asked. "It gets more visitors every year than the Vatican or Mecca."
I replied politely that I was vaguely aware of that fact and that I had indeed been a couple of times before.
"You've been there before?" Angel was incredulous. "Tell us about it."
The drinks arrived and I settled back to my task.
"The whole region is a very important for the Hindu religion. There are hundreds of temples and monuments all around the area but the main temple at Tirumala is one of the most beautiful in India. It is over a thousand years old and is dedicated to the Lord Vishnu, one of the three main Hindu gods, who is believed to have appeared in the Tirumala Hills in the human incarnation of Sri Venkateswara or Lord Balaji. His image is now worshiped in the temple. It wears a diamond crown that is reputed to be the most valuable religious relic in the world. As you know, it is visited by forty million pilgrims a year and is one of the richest temples in India."
"Wow. You really know your stuff. I can't wait to see it." Angel said earnestly. I glanced at Julia who was gazing intently at me.
"It gets very busy. If you are hoping to do darshan or enter the temple to contemplate the image of the Balaji, I recommend you book a timed slot. It only costs about 300 rupees but it could save you hours of queuing. You can do it on-line."
"Well we sure want to get the authentic experience, don't we Julia. Can you help us get tickets?" Angel said.
"Yes, of course, I would be delighted to help. It is not that simple though. If you are going into the temple you will need to obey the dress code. Do you have any traditional Indian dress?
"Of course we do honey, Julia and me have been shopping for America everywhere we have been. We've got everything."
"OK. Now I'm guessing that you are not Hindus, so you will have to arrange to sign a declaration that says you believe in the Hindu gods. We will need to go either to the Vaikuntam Queue Centre in Tirumala or one of the TTD administration offices in Tirupati to get that done. You should also do the darshan or pilgrimage in the right order. That requires you to walk from Tirupati up to Tirumala. It's about three thousand steps on an 11km pathway which has lots of temples, gopurams and other monuments on the way up. You should then bathe at the Swami Pushkarini and afterwards visit the Sri Varahaswami temple which is next to the pushkarini. It is the oldest temple in Tirumala and plays an important part in the legend. Then you go to the Venkateswara Temple to receive the blessing of Balaji and finally you need to return to Tirupati to have darshan at the temple of Padmavathi Ammavari, the wife of Lord Venkateswara."
At that moment, the train stopped at Trivellore, the first stop on the line. No-one entered our carriage but I did buy a bottle of cold mint lassi and some samosas from a platform vendor which I shared with my travelling companions.
Angel and Julia were deep in conversation. "We should definitely do it," said Angel. "It sounds so different from the usual tourist crap,"