The incident at the Japanese bathhouse. Was it only yesterday? If I live to be one hundred the memory of it will be burned into my brain as vivid as it is at this moment.
First of all, the bathhouse. I had been more than a little relieved when, after making a few discrete inquiries, I had discovered that many of the more lurid stories I had read were, at the very least, exaggerations, at most, downright fabrications, written for the sole purpose of titillating the sensibilities of proper Victorian gentlemen such as myself. By law, I discovered, in modern times the genders now must bath in separate rooms within all public bath facilities. That decency law had been enacted over twenty years prior to our arrival in Japan. Either the baths must be totally separate or, just as in our hotel, a partition wall separated each bathing facility into two parts. Women on one side and men on the other.
Let me explain just so there is no occasion for misunderstanding. In my brother-in-law's absence, my niece's welfare is solely my responsibility. And I take this responsibility very seriously. As accustomed as she might be to living in this country, we are, after all, in a foreign country, and her life and that of her father have been threatened more than once since our departure from the first Universal Peace Conference in Rome. If separate bathing facilities meant that I could not have visual contact with my niece during that time, still separate facilities better suited my Victorian sensibilities.
On the other hand, I have lately come to realize that the very thought of viewing my eighteen-year-old niece's body,
sans vêtements
, oh yes, that interests me just a bit
too
much.
It was shortly after dawn ‘Alex' and I were already on the road. Travelling north, we were making our way on horseback out of the city and along a steep, winding mountain road. It was a warm, early summer morning. The sun shown brightly in a cloudless sky. Travelling under an alias as I had since unceremoniously departing Reichenbach Falls in Switzerland, I rode alongside my lovely young niece. Each of us rode on the back of a tall, sturdy roan. I was dressed for a jaunt in the country and she was dressed in a riding habit. As usual ‘Alex' did not ride side-saddle. As usual I found my niece's nonconformity delightful.
We rode for several miles, and the bulk of our journey was uneventful. As we rode, we enjoyed a companionable silence. You may or may not be aware but I often have little regard for the fairer sex. As a rule I find them to be silly, fickle creatures. However my niece is one female who's company I thoroughly enjoy, perhaps because she does not feel the need to fill the silences with mindless prattle. On occasion Alexandrée would point out various points of interest and explain interesting bits of Japanese history with the skill of a seasoned tour guide before lapsing once again into silence. Indeed, Alex knew the country well. For the past seven years her widowed father held the position of French Ambassador to the island nation.
As we neared our destination Alexandrée began to explain to me about the nature of establishment we would be visiting.
Onsen
, she informed me, is the Japanese word for a natural hot spring. The facility she and I would be enjoying was operating in connection to an ancient and exclusive teahouse. This teahouse catered to a very exclusive clientele. The
onsen
was located high up in the mountains and was a private spa facility. This particular bathhouse, she pointed out in a most matter-of-fact manner, was not
technically
a public facility but catered only to invited guests, generally wealthy gentlemen and their mistresses. Thus it was not subject to the segregation laws regarding most public bathhouses.
The more I learned, the worse her revelations became. The spa itself had been formed by the naturally heated mineral water which bubbled up through the mountain's volcanic rock. This water fed several large, deep pools formed naturally into the bedrock. The hot springs themselves were located in a secluded area in the gardens behind the teahouse. I was taken aback. Not only were there to be no separate facilities for men and women, but the baths themselves were actually located out-of-doors. Needless to say, I was less than thrilled with this revelation, but what could I do? By this time I was committed. Tempted as I was, what kind of a coward would I have shown myself to be to turn back at this point?
To say that I was uncomfortable would be an enormous understatement.
The teahouse itself was a quaint little building with red beams and a red tile roof nestled amongst the towering evergreen trees like a setting for a fairytale. At the gate, we alit and two young oriental men came forward to care for our horses. We left our shoes at the front door.
Inside my niece introduced me to an extremely ancient looking Japanese woman not much over three feet tall whom went by the affectionate nickname of
‘Mama-san'