The crossing was rough. The Minch can get turbulent, and the ferry was an hour and a half late reaching Stornoway. We were all right, safe on the MacBrayne ferry, but I wondered about the yacht we saw briefly as we overtook it, disappearing completely into the troughs at times. Distinctive, with its junk rig, reefed right down. Mrs McLeod was waiting for us, and I blessed again the serendipity of telling my workmate where we were going.
"Oh aye, an' my mother lives in Stornoway. I'll tell her ye're coming," Hamish said. Next thing I knew we'd been invited to stay the night when we landed.
"Ye'll have to," said Hamish, "Ma'll be offended if ye don't."
The horizontal rain as we walked up the street to the little house was more than enough to convince me that accepting had been wise. The welcome from Mrs McLeod couldn't have been warmer, and we were soon outside a welcoming meal, toasting our toes before a peat fire, the first we'd seen. Conversation was relaxed, pleasantries exchanged, but we'd been travelling all day, we were tired, and we soon took to our bed, cosy under a thick, home-made comforter. Any plans we might have had for a little horizontal exercise were promptly scuppered as Julie fell asleep almost as soon as her head hit the pillow.
Next morning was bright, dry, sunny and our spirits lifted. Enquiries revealed that the bus we wanted left us time to explore and we wandered down to the harbour.
"Look, over there. Isn't that the yacht we passed." Julie pointed to a tiny vessel across the harbour. I doubt it was an inch longer than twenty-five feet. We wandered closer.
I drew Julie's attention to the port of registration. "He's a long way from home."
"Auckland, New Zealand. Wow. He
is
a long way from home."
"It could explain the junk rig. Someone told me it's popular with single-handers as it's easy to handle."
Julie grinned at me. "It needs to be, if he's come this far alone."
We couldn't see any sign of life, and we didn't want to disturb the yachtsman if he was sleeping, so we moved on. Stereotyping, I suppose, as we both assumed it was a man. It was getting near time now for the bus and we retrieved our rucksacks from Mrs McLeod, bade her a fond farewell, and took ourselves off.
It's pretty wild country on the road south from Stornoway, beautiful but wild. Habitations are few. I was regretting that we hadn't longer to spare, but the few days break from the office grind would have to do. I'd shown the bus driver the spot on the map where we wanted to be set down and he duly dropped us in the middle of nowhere. The main road would have been a mere byway back home, and the minor road which led off into the rocks and heather was little more than a strip of asphalt, barely wide enough for a car. Julie looked at it, then at me. She grinned.
"You sure know how to show a girl a good time," she said.
I grinned back at her. "Come on, there are a few miles yet, my love."
She arched her eyebrows at that, but we moved off together, spirits light, happy in the solitude. We'd gone almost a mile when the track I was looking for led off to the right and we ambled along for another mile or so before I called a halt. In summer, this far north, night comes late, very late, and I knew we'd no need to hurry to find somewhere to pitch the tent. We sat for a while.
I took Julie's hand. "Listen," I said.
We listened. A gurgle from the burn nearby, a cry from a bird, the buzz of insects. "What are we listening for?" Julie said.
"Man."
We listened again. Nothing but mother nature at rest and at peace with herself. Julie squeezed my fingers. "You are man. I am woman. The world is ours alone."
I laughed. "Yeah. Out here it seems that way. Come on, let's be on our way."
Another couple of miles and we could see the loch ahead of us. A mile or so further and we were walking alongside it. I began to look for somewhere to stop, and finally spied a tiny little meadow. It couldn't have been more than twelve feet by twenty, the grass cropped short by the sheep. The ground was stony, but I managed to get the tent pegs in without bending more than a couple. I threw the mats in and unrolled the double sleeping-bag. Heavier than a couple of good singles, but worth the few pounds for the benefits. I glanced at my watch. Ten in the evening, and barely twilight.