I'm sitting in my little Zodiac inflatable, puttering through the anchorage off the town of Avalon, California, and it all looks so familiar to me -- yet kind of far away, too. The sharply sloping beach is not quite a hundred feet away as I slip through the anchorage, the old casino still majestically presides over the harbor, and the rocky sea wall is as it has been all my life -- boulder strewn, imperturbable -- and improbable. Something man-made, to keep nature at arm's length, and the thought is metaphoric in the early morning air.The water below is clear and deep blue -- just as it was fifty years ago, rocks scattered over the sandy white bottom still visible forty-three feet down, the sea as relentlessly clear and full of promise this morning as it was in the late 60s. Nothing appears to have changed, not all that much, anyway, and even my boat looks the same.
I turn and look at her reflection in the water and note she hasn't changed a bit -- not as much as I have. Troubadour is my Alajuela 38, and I bought her new from the manufacturer in Newport Beach 50 years ago this year, and yes, she's seen a few miles pass under her keel, true enough, but she's been in good hands all the while. My hands, as a matter of fact. And I've been looking at my hands these last few days, maybe more than I should, or more than is healthy, but right now, as I putter through the anchorage off Avalon, I can see my hands have changed a lot the last few years, and I have to admit there are days I hardly recognize them anymore. Still, when those moments find me I have to wonder what happened to me, because Troubadour looks the same. Why? Why do I have to be the one get old? It doesn't seem fair to me right now and I'd like to understand.
I remember looking at my grandfather's hands once, when I was a kid -- I called him Pops, by the way -- and wondering what all those brown spots were. And why his fingernails were kind of yellow and ridged. He had a few scars over the almost translucent white skin, too, and most were from cuts he'd sewn up himself -- "once upon a time," he used to say. He'd dip a needle and thread in whiskey and just sew himself up, and he didn't think anything of it. It was what you did to stop the bleeding, so he did it and moved on to the next chore, which was what I ended up doing -- more or less -- over the years. Now, looking at my hand on the outboard motor's tiller I recognized those hands for what they are. They were my hands now, in a way, but they were my grandfather's, too, right down to the yellow ridges on the nails. Am I an echo? I always thought I was just me, but am I, really?
I remember one night as I putter through the anchorage, me and Pops sitting with his third wife, Terry, watching The Petrified Forest, that movie with Bogart and Davis, and he told me about his trip west in 1919, just after the first war. How there weren't highways crossing the United States, not even through roads. He had a car, and God knows how he afforded it, but he and my grandmother -- his first wife -- made the trip west together, from Brooklyn to Los Angeles. A few cities had paved streets -- Kansas City's were paved with blood red brick, he said -- but by and large the roads that connected America's far-flung western cities were primitive things, often little more than sandy tracks winding over windswept prairie or through brittle desert scrub. With the hard, narrow tires that cars had in those days, the wheels tended to settle down in the soft sand tracks, often so deep that drive shafts were worn down by the the sand, and he had to replace two solid steel shafts between El Paso and Flagstaff. Just polished down to nothing, he told me as he sifted through his memories, worn down by endless miles under a relentlessly hot sun. Took them almost three weeks to make the trip, and he admitted to me that night, once the movie was over, he should have taken the train and bought a car once he got to LA, but that wasn't my grandfather's idea of life. He wanted to get out there in the world, smell the road, meet people along the way and maybe have some fun and get in trouble too, because that's what life was all about. I guess he passed that on to me, for better or worse, because in the end I bought Troubadour and sailed to those sandy, out of the way places he never made it too.
Funny, but I didn't plan things that way, not in the beginning. Things just kind of happened.
The way things always kind of happen. Unexpected things, the kind of people you never thought you'd run into, not in a million years. Doing things I never thought I wanted to do, going places that held no interest to me -- until I got there. It's odd, looking back now, how vital the unexpected things became.
Life for me, before Troubadour, had been like the first thirty seconds of a roller coaster ride, the part where the ratcheting chain hauls you up that first huge incline. I was in the lead car right about then, too, looking out at the world during that little pause at the top, just before the car takes off down that first steep drop. There is, I seem to recall, a flash of anticipation up there inside that hovering moment, then that little fluttering exhilaration in your gut as you slowly roll forward -- followed by a dawning awareness that life might be far more interesting somewhere else, anywhere, you're suddenly sure, else on this roller coaster. Maybe I never felt that way, not in that moment before the fall, but about half way through my ride I began to develop an appreciation for smooth bicycles on warm country roads.
Funny thing, though. That was my fault, not the roller-coaster's. And certainly not her fault.
Which, I think, makes Troubadour all the more ironic. Troubadour was a nonstop roller coaster ride, yet she's an old friend now. I know her aches and pains, her ups and downs as well as I know my own -- yet what makes that such an off-putting idea is she's not flesh and bone. She's a boat, but she's been my friend, too. A boat that became a reflection of my life. You go places with friends. You look back at that reflection and, if you've done it right, all you see is love. The ups and downs are all sunny and smooth now.
Yup. Funny. As hell.
+++++
I started playing the piano in kindergarten, maybe a little before. I was pretty good too, or so people told me, for a four year old. My first teacher, a dainty old woman who kept a regal old Steinway grand in her music room, seemed to think I had talent, yet even then I was more interested in composing music, not playing. And not to make to big a deal about it, but I always hated performing in front of people. My first recital was a disaster, and that set the stage for many more crushing performances over the years, but I think, in an odd way, my reaction to that first trembling moment paved the way for Troubadour. I do okay playing one on one, or even with a few people looking over my shoulder, but if you put me in a venue with hundreds of people I just come undone. Just can't do it, if you know what I mean. It's not stage fright...it's stage catatonia. I got over it once, for a while, but you know how these things go. They come back when you least expect them to, and it ain't pleasant when it happens.
Anyway, some time in junior high a bunch of really hip kids decided to form a band. Mind you, these guys were like twelve years old and had never played an instrument in their lives, but two of them got electric guitars for Christmas and started banging out the simple three-chord progressions of songs like Louie-Louie and Hang on Sloopy, and my best friend, Pete, got a massive Ludwig drum set -- because that's what Ringo played, don't you know -- but they needed someone who could play bass. Well, turns out I could. I was playing both the acoustic bass and guitar by that point, and my grandfather had a massive pipe organ in his house that I'd been playing for years, so I had that one under my belt too.
At any rate, they convinced me to join them and I guess you could say I taught them how to play their instruments over the next year. My best friend since kindergarten, Pete Davis, was a soulful twelve year old who liked writing poetry and was a natural on the drums, and we started putting music to the words in his head. Anyway, after he shared his musings with us, somehow real music started to take shape. Hey, you never know, right?
I look back on those first compositions of ours as something else, like a snapshot of life in the early sixties, the wonder of coming of age condensed into two and a half minutes of pre-pubescent wailing about the horrors of acne and the unexpected grief of nocturnal emissions. We were twelve -- going on twenty -- I guess, yet even then sex was becoming the center of our universe, and after we were pegged to play at our school's spring dance, the last weekend of our last year in junior high, that awareness grew front and center into something surreal. We had a couple of our own pieces to play but by and large we were set to grind out a bunch of Beatles and Stones songs, with me doing double duty on bass and keyboards, yet already we could tell the girls were looking at us differently.