There were no commercial flights to San Cristobal. Xavier offered to fly me down in his Lear jet, but when I checked on it I was told that the runways there were too short even for executive sized jets. So I took a Mexicana flight to Tuxtla Gutierrez -- a horrible industrial town in the middle of a raspy desert -- and from there hired a local pilot to fly me up to san Cristobal in his prewar Cessna.
The flight itself turned out to be just as beautiful as Tuxtla was ugly. It took us sailing up the sides of the magnificent range of mountains that starts there in southern Mexico and runs all the way down to panama. From our altitude, which seemed to be no more than treetop level plus a hundred feet or so, I could see long, elegant ribbons of waterfalls winding through mountain forests, and a thin mist that laced its way through the trees so that the whole scene was somehow reminiscent of a Japanese paradise. Occasionally my eyes were tantalized by marvelous little foot trails that ran mysteriously off into the woods, and once or twice I thought I saw Indians trotting along the trails, carrying loads of firewood at least as big as they were, using nothing more than a strap attached to their foreheads.
By the time the pilot landed in a little alpine meadow at the top of the mountain, I was enthralled. Everything around me was brilliant green and dotted with yellow flowers, and a creek ran peacefully through the little meadow that had been dignified with the name of an airport. By the side of the creek a gaggle of Indian women dressed entirely in white laughed and talked as they washed clothes and beat them dry on the blue rocks that also served as their chairs. It was the sort of wonderfully primitive place that under less pressured circumstances I might have chosen for a private retreat, or a romantic holiday with a special lover.
But I had business. The pilot very graciously drove me from the airport into town, a magnificent old colonial pueblo with a weather beaten seventeenth century cathedral facing the village square. I took a hotel on the other side of the plaza, a charming old place with fresh flowers in the courtyard fountain and wildly colored tropical birds cawing madly from their wrought iron cages.
I drank a manzanita in the courtyard, and for the first time began to wonder what I was actually going to do now that I was there. I hadn't the faintest idea who to talk to -- even Xavier's almost universal network of contacts did not reach into this remote little spot -- and very little notion of where to start. Now I found myself regretting that years ago I had turned my schoolgirl nose up at Spanish and concentrated on learning French.
Luckily, the hotel manager spoke English and was able to find me an interpreter, a winsome young mestizo boy with the improbable name of Tolerante dos Rios. A part quiche Indian, Tolerante was sixteen and had one of those angelic Mexican faces with the Walter Keene eyes. I immediately took him to my room so as to avoid being overheard, but when I boldly told him that I wanted to meet whoever might be in charge of the local drug traffic, and would pay for that information, he was so startled that he forgot his English.
"Quieres conocer al cubano?" he said in surprise.
I didn't need Spanish to understand that last word, and now I was just as surprised as he. "You mean there's a Cuban in charge of the drug trade here?" I asked.
"Si, senorita," he said. " Back in the mountains, where they grow the mota and the opio, the Cuban runs everything."
"I want to meet him," I said.
"This is not easy," he replied.
"I didn't expect it to be easy. If you can arrange a meeting, I can fix it so you never have to work again."
He gave me a wary look -- I suppose he was entirely unused to having women speak to him that way. But when I opened my wallet and gave him a hundred dollar bill -- " for your trouble," I said -- he brightened immediately.
"I come for you tonight," he said. "I take you to the Cuban."
"Perfect," I said. "And thank you, darling." I leaned over and planted a motherly kiss on his forehead, whereupon his face lit up in a tremendous blush and he literally sprinted from the room.
I spent the rest of the day seeing the sights, strolling through the Indian market, picking among the baskets of green chilies, mangoes, and the bright red pepper called aji, buying several pairs of the crude, massive golden earrings that the women haul down from the secret mountains in cardboard boxes, then a short trip outside town to a series of caverns that were even more spectacular (although somewhat smaller) than the famous ones at Carlsbad, new Mexico. By the time I returned it was after dark, and I found myself running from my rented car to the hotel in fear that I had missed Tolerante.
But he was there, dressed in white peasant pants and white serape, his hair combed and slicked back, his face shining clean. He looked so adorably innocent that I had the urge to take him in my arms and cuddle him half to death, but I remembered his reaction when I kissed him that afternoon and managed to stifle myself.
"We must hurry, senorita," he said when he saw me. "The fight is already started."
"What fight?" I said. He had mentioned nothing of this in the afternoon.
"Los Gatos del Monte," he said. "You'll see. But please, we must hurry. Apurese, senorita."
"Wait a minute," I said when we were outside. "What does this fight, whatever it is, have to do with the Cuban?"
"His cat is fighting tonight," he said. "He will be there, I know."
Without another word of explanation he started off across the square, and there was nothing I could do but shrug and follow him as best I could. He led me past the church, and then through a maze of impossibly narrow alleyways, finally stopping in front of a silent, darkened tire shop to wait for me to catch up. When I reached him, Tolerante drummed his fingers on the corrugated metal door, and within a few seconds I heard a muffled voice say something in Spanish. Tolerante answered, then took my hand and led me around to the back of the shop.
There a door creaked open and Tolerante ushered me into a large, brightly lit room that must have served as the shop's garage during the daytime. Once my eyes adjusted to the sudden glare, I could see that the room was ringed with people, an amazingly mixed crowd that included Mexicans in fancy dress guayaberas, solemn Indians in their white cotton clothing, a few Caribbean looking blacks, and one woman who I could have sworn was German, although she was dressed in the bright wools of the Indians of Guatemala. The room was surprisingly quiet, as people talked in matter of fact tones, and only an occasional laugh rose above the conversational hum.
Then I noticed a stack of cages standing apart in one corner of the garage. Inside the cages were various felines, but in versions I had never seen before, not even in the pages of national geographic. The animals had long, low bodies reminiscent of weasels, with triangular heads, sharp, pointed noses, and faces that reminded me of raccoon, but without the mask. Some walked restlessly around their cages while others appeared to be almost somnambulant, but they all exuded a mysterious sort of tension, like athletes before an event or, perhaps more aptly, like coiled snakes.
"Los Gatos del Monte," Tolerante said when he saw me staring at them. "Soon they will fight."
"What about the Cuban?" I said.
"I don't see him now. But he will come. I am sure."