The fates aligned with me, the next three trains I hopped all took me south and west heading closer to Texas. The fourth train, mostly loaded with empty petrochemical containers, took me nearly all of the way there deep into Southeast Texas and almost to the coast.
I felt I was somewhere close, but not quite there yet, and it had been a very long time since I had been anywhere near this far south before. There was harvesting in the Rio Grande Valley, but there was an amply supply of Mexicans to do that labor, and hobos were not needed and there were a great many unfriendly Sheriffs in-between.
In the end, I decided to trust my nose; it usually had better sense than the rest of me put together. I had vaguely remembered a town near the coast, but not quite on it, so I just aimed my nose south and determined to keep the Gulf on my left side and marched on forwards. It took awhile to find, but one rainy mid-summer afternoon when I stopped for shelter under a small railroad trestle, I found exactly what I was looking for, a nearly invisible scratched marking on the wood of the trestle with my circled initials on it and dated from 1969.
I had been here before. The town must be nearby, as I now vaguely remembered walking to here to catch a train out of Texas, and the next day I found it. A small backwater rural town of no particular account or importance near the coast called Lovett, Texas.
Things seemed a bit changed since I was last here, folks seemed a bit nicer and the Town Centre definitely looked more prosperous than when I had briefly passed through nearly 30 years ago. The smell of fresh paint and optimism was everywhere. Suited me fine, I could use a fresh coat of each on my own soul.
The first order of business was to find some work, and the first three people I asked all gave me the exact same answer - 'go to the Church'. I expected some trouble with a young lady Deputy Sheriff who politely asked if she could help me, but when I told her I was looking for the Church, she offered to give me a ride directly over there, and then bade me a good day and good luck with my job hunting. Definitely different from the attitude of most Sheriff's offices in most places I had been.
The opportunities available to me for employment via the kindness of the Church did not seem particularly promising. There was a quite successful computer company in town, but I had no skills for that and couldn't even type decently. There was also a revived aviation industry just outside of town a bit at the County airport, but my skills were lacking a bit there too. I joked that I had a fairly strong back and was used to spending all of my time with my fingers in the dirt.
This engendered a loud laugh from a man about my own age who seemed to be the local priest whom everyone called Father Al. He suggested that I go offer my services to a lady by the name of Dr. Rosalyn White, and that he would even offer to drive me over there to meet her himself.
The lady Doc I found out was not a medical doctor, but she was an expert in rare tropical plants and had been recently hired by some millionaire out of Houston to setup and maintain a greenhouse botanical research station down here. The millionaire was, of course, Chris' old friend and the lover of his wife, one Robert Simmons.
Father Al seemed to appreciate the irony of the situation when I told him that an old friend of mine had a different experience with the town's new benefactor and he replied cryptically. "Tis an old saying, the Devil lurks behind the cross. All is not gold that glistens. Swift deep currents often pass below calm ocean surfaces. Listen often, speak less, learn, love and live - all the mysteries of God shall be revealed over time." With that he smiled and let me get out in front of the research station, before giving a friendly wave and he drove off again back to Lovett.
Absolutely typical, I had only been in this town for less a day on two occasions about thirty years apart, and nothing but strangeness occurred each time!
There was still time to find a train north and get up to Washington State for the grape harvesting in the Columbia Valley and maybe a little salmon fishing in the cool mountain rivers. Well I was already here now, so I might as well make the best of it, I convinced myself, and somehow managed to give the glass on the front door of the main greenhouse a firm rapping.
My initial evaluation of the place was not promising. Someone had gone through a considerable amount of time, effort and money to build several good huge greenhouses, but outside of these structures virtually nothing else was done. I soon found out why. The 'good Doctor', to put it mildly, was a bit of a harridan. No employee yet had lasted longer than a single day of working for her.
She seemed a little bit younger than me, but I got the impression that her mileage had been adding up a bit too. She certainly didn't dress for looks; she was definitely 100% 'utility', all go and no show. She didn't think very much of me either, and let me pointedly know so in case I hadn't been paying attention. But since there was no one else to do the work, I was it... and there was certainly an awful lot of work to be done.
The first step was an endless assembly of sturdy metal tables that would be supporting the greenhouse plant growth boxes. This was hard fussy sweaty work, especially under the glass roof of a mid-summer South Texas heat wave, and my boss didn't cut me the slightest amount of slack as she worked beside me just as hard all that afternoon long. I think she had expected me to quit within an hour or two, but seemed surprised that I had held up so well. It wasn't the first time I had toiled under a hot sun under a heartless taskmaster.
She found a camp cot bed for me that after several decades of sleeping on the ground felt like luxury. She had a tent and disappeared into it fairly early after dark without saying a word to me. Probably also pointing a shotgun at the entrance to be ready if I made any nocturnal unwelcome advances.
There was supposedly going to be a house built here for the staff to live in, but everything had been delayed with the constant rain they had been getting here this summer.
By the end of Saturday, most of the plant tables had been assembled in the first and main greenhouse. The rest I was told could wait until later. Now it was time to assemble and emplace the large planters onto the tables and I started right away on this that next Sunday morning.
Rosalyn seemed surprised to see me working on my 'day off', but I had never been much of a church man and 'these planters weren't going to get moved by themselves'. Soon she was helping me and we again spent a long hot day under the broiling glass, neither of us uttering a word of complaint. She was one mighty tough woman, hard as nails.
I could also tell that she was a really a bit of a softie inside, but something had hurt her bad and fairly recently, and her armor was always on. The trouble with heavy inflexible steel armor is that it always has a weak joint or two that leads into the soft unprotected insides, and I found Rosalyn's. At heart she was as sentimental as any old hobo I had ever met.
In no mood yet for sleep, I had been puttering around the campfire near her tent that evening. As usual, she had migrated to her tent right after dinner and I was adding wood to the fire and giving it a good stir to keep it going - I have always loved a good cheerful campfire. Without thinking I started to softly sing a few of my favorite old hobo songs, and was about halfway through "Hallelujah, I'm a Bum" when I heard her come out of the tent and stare at me. I stopped and turned to look at her, and she was crying her eyes out with real tears. That song, she told me, had been her late husband's favorites, and she had heard him sing it often.
His father had worked for the Southern Pacific Railroad all of his life, and often took his children camping in the woods and taught them all of the old railroad and hobo folk songs. Her husband had shared his love of camping with his wife and their young daughter and they had spent many an evening around the campfire singing songs together. She had lost both him and their daughter in a tragic car crash a few years ago, and nothing had been quite right for her ever since.
She asked me to re-sing "Hallelujah" for her and I did, and asked her if her husband had ever taught her "Big Rock Candy Mountain", as it had been written by the same man, Harry McClintock in the 1920's.
"No" she said, but she wanted to hear it, and so I sang it for her, slow and wistfully as if it were a prayer.
"One evening as the sun went down
And the jungle fires were burning,
Down the track came a hobo hiking,
And he said, "Boys, I'm not turning
I'm headed for a land that's far away
Besides the crystal fountains
So come with me, we'll go and see
The Big Rock Candy Mountains
In the Big Rock Candy Mountains,
There's a land that's fair and bright,
Where the handouts grow on bushes
And you sleep out every night.