Everything about him screamed that here was a man who had let life slide right on by. He stopped his car, a 60's vintage Citroen DS at the fuel pump. It settled down as he climbed out and looked at the pumps and scratched his head. He took the 94 E10 nozzle from the bowser and looked for the doohickey that zeroed the price. As he stared at the dial, he noticed that it zeroed itself, so he stuck the nozzle into the filler and squeezed the trigger. When the flow of petrol came up the neck, it shut itself off, so he put the nozzle back in its place and replaced the filler cap.
The attendant looked at him as he walked through the door, concern on his face. In front of him stood a tall, gaunt man. A faded denim cap sat on his long, straggly grey hair. An equally straggly grey beard hid most of his face. He wore a long sleeveless jacket over what was once a brightly coloured shirt. He wore faded jeans with hand sewn patches on the knees. His feet were stuffed into sandals, the soles of which were cut from the tread of car tyres. 'Did this man have the money to pay for his fuel?' He thought to himself. "Pump 3 is it Sir?" He asked. He had no need to ask, as it was the only one that had been used, but he was told that he had to ask that question.
"I guess so."
"That'll be a hundred and fifteen dollars and twenty-five cents. Will that be cash or card?"
"Cash." He took a crumpled handful of notes from the pocket of his jacket and counted out a hundred and twenty dollars. He slid the money across the counter, stuffed the rest back into his pocket and waited for his change. The coins went into another pocket as he walked back to his car.
The venerable DS raised itself to its previous ride height before it slid out onto the main road.
This much I found out later. On the other side of town from the service station was a caravan park with en-suite cabins. He turned in and stopped by the office. The receptionist (me) looked up as he walked in. "Can I help you?"
"I would like a cabin for at least a week."
"Sure thing. Number 4 is vacant at present. It will be fifty dollars a night. How will you be paying for this?"
"Cash" He took a wad of notes and counted out three hundred dollars. I handed him the key and, walking outside, showed him his cabin.
"Thank you." He said before climbing into his old car and driving towards the cabin. I watched as he took a battered suitcase from the boot and carried it into the cabin.
I was old enough to recognise that his appearance belonged to an age that had died out decades ago. An age of drugs and communes, flower power and free love, an age that my mother told me about. I remembered her watching films of those times. Woodstock, Monterey, Sunbury and several other music festivals of the time, with artists like Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, The Who, and many others long departed. It all seemed so casual and free back then, not like the high-pressure world of today, with its emphasis on achieving great wealth at the expense of others.
My thoughts hovered in the background while I went about my daily routine. It was a quiet time of the year, not many tourists stopping by to enjoy life by the river. I finish for the day at five o'clock and leave the Night Manager to handle any arrivals or departures until the morning. Not that this place was high pressured, far from it, the most exciting thing that happens here is when it rains, and that's not often enough.
He walked past as I left the office. "Where's a good place to get a meal around here?" He asked. He was somehow different from when he came into town this morning, he was clean, his hair and beard had lost much of the straggle of this morning, and his clothes had changed to a pair of un-patched jeans and a clean but un-ironed shirt.
"That depends on what you are looking for. If it's cheap you want we have a Macca's, if it's expensive we have a couple of restaurants that are worth a look, but if you're looking for cheap but good, any of the pubs are okay."
"A pub sounds good, which one would you recommend?"
"The Railway it's as good as any, and I just happen to be heading in that direction, so if you want a lift, jump in." I had just unlocked my car. He walked around to the passenger side and climbed in, shutting the door after him. "You'd better put your seat belt on." He looked as if he was from before the time when belts were made compulsory, but managed to sort it out.
We arrived at the Railway Hotel and I parked in the rear car-park. I led him through the rear door into the dining room. "You order over there." I pointed to the bar. "And they'll give you a table number so that they know where to bring your order."
"Would you like to join me?"
Wow, this came as a shock and left me not knowing what to say for a second or two. "Okay, sure." I led him to the bar and he looked at the menu board. "There's a specials board, they're cheap but good."
He ignored me and ordered a steak, rare, and chips. "This will make a change from roo meat." He said as he waited for me to order. I settled on grilled Barramundi (an indigenous fish from up north) with chips. I was handed the table number and we found an empty table, placed the number on it, and headed for the salad bar.
"What would you like to drink?" I asked him.
"Would you like to share a bottle of Red?"
"Sure. Would you like me to get one for you?"
"Nah, I can manage." He went off to get the wine, and when he returned I was surprised at his selection. Here I was expecting something modestly priced, but what he had was definitely from the top shelf, a Coonawarra Cab/Sav. It was very good.
"Where are you from?" I asked by way of starting the conversation.
"Up north, Coober Pedy." He had an economy of words common to those not used to conversation.
"An opal miner were you?" I matched his economy.
"Ya could say that. I picked up a few in my time."
"How long have you been doing that, mining opals?"
"Too fucking long. Sorry about that. I was at it for about twenty-five years, I spent pretty much the entire time underground. We had to do that to survive the heat up there. The day time temperature outside hovers around fifty degrees and it's a good twenty-five degrees cooler underground. In Winter, the overnight temperature is somewhat south of freezing. That means that it's a good twenty-five degrees warmer.
Along with having to shift tonnes of rock out after you've blasted, and after you've sifted through it looking for colour, I decided it was time to chuck it in and do something different."
"Like what?"
"Dunno yet, something'll crop up. It's not as if I'm in a rush. What goes on around here?"
"Not a lot. Most of the action happens in one of the pubs, you know, a fight might break out, usually some bloke objecting to someone else hitting on his sheila that he's ignored all night."
"Like any small town pub in the middle of nowhere. I think I might stay away from them. What else goes on?"
"Most of the people are too old to get into trouble, you see the kids have all pissed off into the cities, they reckon there's nothing to keep them here."
"So there's no work to be had on the farms then?"
"You don't strike me as the type to be caught working on a farm. Anyhow, in this day of mechanisation, there's no work for labourers anymore."
"Apart from working at the motel, what do you do with your time?"
"What time? My day is one of total excitement. I get up at six in the morning, feed the cat, tidy up and jump in my car and head for work. I start at seven and work until five, sometimes longer if we're busy. Then I come home. I'm usually too tired to do much more than watch TV for an hour or so before crawling into the bed I share with my cat."
"No husband then?"
"I had one once, he was about as much use as tits on a bull. I ended up kicking him out after I caught him up to his balls in some sheila that blew into town on her way to somewhere else. Apart from the legal niceties associated with the divorce, I've had no contact with him since."
"So no good looking bloke has come to town that took your fancy?"
"You're the first bloke in I don't know how long. As for good looking, compared to what?"
He looked around at the rest of the diners. "I see what you mean, ordinary looking bunch aren't they?"
A couple of women walked over to our table. "Hi Jan, aren't you going to introduce us to your friend?"
"You've got to be kidding me, the last time I did that you stole him from me. He was lucky to survive the night. I promised that I would never make that mistake again."
"Spoilsport." They giggled there way over to the bar.
Our meals arrived and conversation dropped to almost non-existent while we munched our way through it. "This is good," I said through a mouthful of steak, "I'd just about forgotten what decent meat tasted like."
"So there's not a lot of beef up there, then?"
"Sometimes a truckie will load up a calf that he hit with his bullbar, but anything bigger than that he'd need help, so no, not a lot of beef."
"So it's camel for the carnivores then?"
"Nah, you're forgetting that there's a plague proportion of feral camels up there as well. When the trucks pass through on the way on the way to market, they'll drop a few off at the butchers. Camel isn't bad eating".
"It sounds like a pretty tough life, what made you get into it in the first place?"
"Well, I had thumbed a ride down from the Alice, (Alice Springs) and was in a pub sinking a couple of coldies, when this old bloke came over to me. "I ask you, Mister, how would you like to work for me in my opal mine?" He spoke with a heavy Eastern European accent, it turned out he was a Croatian. He was heavy set, his facial features hidden behind something that was too long for stubble and too short to be a beard.
"Sure, why not?" At this time in my travels, I was looking to do something other than hitch-hike.
He drove out of town for some ten kilometres until we came to a pile of rocks next to a hole in the ground. It looked just like a lot of other piles of rock next to a hole in the ground, but I was in for a shock. Inside was a long, gently sloping shaft leading into the ground before it levelled out. There were doorways off this shaft from time to time, but we kept going for at least a hundred metres to the work-face. Here stood a dust-covered front-end loader of indeterminate age. Just past that was an unusual machine. It had a long cylinder on which were attached grinding teeth.
"What is that?" I asked, pointing to this contraption.