Pearl bullets glued on string, caught in mesh, and stuffed into oil-sheen cardboard. I pull it out of the box and inspect it against my naked body in the bathroom mirror. Scarce fabric, ready to fray, fall apart, designed for fleeting alleyway encounters. How would that part map to that part of my body, I wondered. It was an anatomical puzzle, and one that would inevitably leave me exposed. Ink spilt against milk and bone. The kind of fabric that drags wherever it touches, and can only be improved by being ripped off.
Who would buy one of these items in the pursuit of sex?
The word "negligee" -- caressed by a soft French accent -- impresses elegance, allure. Nighttime attempts at glamour: forget mundane wants such as warmth and decency. This is material that craves self-destruction.
"I like to see how far I can ramp up desire within one image until it becomes grotesquely comic." British artist Linder Sterling (b.1954) identifies, explores, and unravels these dynamics in her photomontages. Desire for Linder is made grotesque by the visual constructs of public society. Advertising images of fashion and consumer products, or flesh for sale in pornography. Glossy magazines contain these absurd conglomerations. Women with bulbous tits that bounce off-the-page, too plastic and explicit to be soggied as tomorrow's fish-and-chip wrappers.
In one untitled photomontage of 1976, a woman stands in a white lace negligee, so tight that the material sticks to her torso like wet toilet-paper. Her arm is a hoover raised eye-height in a pin-up pose, a camera poised to flash arse-angle. Humanity replaced by flesh to consume. In other images, the protagonist is sex, nothing else. Sometimes, a collaged flower opens her out: verdant body, object to fuck.
Comedy certainly lies in such images -- the oversized teeth and eyes, hoover nozzle for hand, outlandish symbolism -- but what Linder fails to capture is the pleasure-infused potential of degradation. Linder described the untitled photomontage (1976) as "prophetic" insofar that "it prefigures the contemporary business of live-streaming content made from the privacy of a bedroom for a paying online audience". Only an artist would make such a claim.
Truthfully, these human desires are timeless and universal. The craving to be watched, desired, then ruined. Service fulfilled.
The male gaze insufficiently captures this experience. Women have long been represented as the subject of the male gaze in Western museums. Odalisques and nudes are the stereotypes of seduction. At the same time, women are sacred in curatorial spaces -- you can look, but not touch.
I invite force with this black mesh token on my body. My direction of desire through the act of offering service, an open invitation cast with intention. In contrast, this is what makes the iconoclasm of Velazquez's Rokeby Venus (1647-51) perhaps the most (un)feminist act in all of art history. The Suffragette Mary Richardson (1882/3-1961) slashed the canvas five times with a meat chopper. Blade against female flesh. Violence, under the hand of a woman, on an unassuming body caught in a private moment. Active upon passive, this isn't pleasure.
The National Gallery became a crime scene in this act of vandalism. Now, I hold up this black negligee -- my dynamite -- that is worlds away from advertising culture constructed on canvas. No crime scene here, but a trail of intrigue. Clues across the city.
He slipped it into my bag on the tube. I eagerly accepted, eyes bright next to a patch of cum-plastered hair on my temple. Say thank you, slut.
Thank you, Sir.
Sweet dishevelment underground. Now on the tube, three hours ago in a cellar under a Georgian townhouse.
I face a full-length mirror, avoiding my own gaze, hands behind back. Preparation had been careful, from the naked body to the white shirt, pencil skirt, and stilettos. In Euripides' Elektra, one line reads: "A woman who cares only after her beauty, as soon as her husband leaves, is not an honourable woman." Beautified, ready to fulfil instructions: how I look right now can only invite disgrace.