She always felt so much at home when she visited the island. Silly really since she spent almost all of her time elsewhere -- working long, tedious hours at the law firm so. Still, her vacations always brought her here -- to the warm breezes, the smell of the ocean, the lush foliage -- so it seemed that each time she was able to visit, she was coming home. This time it would be a little different. In the past she had always stayed at one of the big resorts. The ones with the private beaches, and golf courses, and spas, and all of the amenities to make her feel lazy and pampered. But not this time.
Back in the city, enjoying drinks at a local watering hole with some friends she had been showing some pictures of her last getaway. Almost out of nowhere a well dressed man had asked her if she enjoyed her stay, mentioning the island by name -- obviously recognizing her destination from the pictures he could see from his perch behind and slightly above her table. She turned, surprised that he had been able to identify the place just from her typically tourist pictures, and at the same time a little pleased that there was someone else in this big, barren city that knew "her place". Some pleasantries were exchanged and at some point he had asked her where she stayed when she visited and she had reeled off the names of the various resorts she had sampled. He casually mentioned that she might enjoy the Sugar Mill the next time she was there.
Later, on her computer her search revealed that in fact the island had been a sugar producer in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, cultivating a substantial sugar crop which eventually yielded a significant rum production, the export of which supported the island and most of its inhabitants. Finally she found what she was looking for -- the website of a bed and breakfast located deep in the rain forest. The owners had located an old sugar mill and preserving as much of the old architecture and structure as possible had restored it. A plantation house, the sugar mill itself and numerous outbuildings, all long abandoned and overgrown, had been restored to yield a small hotel and restaurant. The website stressed that every effort had been made to retain the original style and texture such that visitors could experience life as it must have been many years ago, tempered of course by the addition of modern amenities.
So it was this beautiful morning that she found herself in a Land Rover traversing the twisting roads and trails, climbing through the lush rain forest up the side of the mountain, peering through the window for a glimpse of a roof, then a stone wall. Around another bend and they pulled into a courtyard. She had expected it to be hot and humid, but a cool breeze off the ocean made the tropical vegetation soothing and inviting. A young boy appeared to take her bags and show her to reception where she was met by a distinguished looking man who introduced himself as Robert, the owner of the retreat.
Her room was perfect - just what she had expected - open and spacious - a wonderful view of the Caribbean far below, curtains wafting in the breeze. She decided to just sit, relax and enjoy. Fruit and wine appeared and she spent the afternoon lazing in her surroundings.
That evening at dinner she met other guests - not that many and of course Robert appeared as the gracious host. After dinner Robert asked if anyone cared to join him for a cigar and cognac. Surprisingly no one else accepted, but having a weak spot for a good cigar, she nodded. They sat on the open veranda, alone, as he snipped a cigar and prepared it for her - she took it and luxuriated in the heady aroma - and sat back to relax and enjoy the evening. Robert, ever the gracious host asked her if everything was to her liking. She replied that it was all perfect but told him she wanted to know more about the place. Robert took a long drag on his cigar, sipped some cognac and said "I thought you'd never ask. This place is my favorite topic of conversation."
For what seemed like a few minutes but she later realized had been over an hour, he expounded in great detail on the history of the place. It had been in his family for generations - back to when it was a working sugar cane plantation. The fields were lower down, but due to the heat and insects, the living quarters were here, high on the mountainside where the trade winds provided a constant cool breeze. The resort itself had been resurrected from the main house, while the small restaurant and bar was once the cookhouse. There were other outbuildings which he would be happy to show tomorrow if she was interested.
Having slept like a baby, caressed by the cool breeze she was up the next morning looking forward to the promised personal tour. As she was finishing breakfast Robert appeared, joining her for coffee and explaining the realties of life on an 18th century sugar plantation. Finishing he offered his arm and they set off to explore the grounds and the other buildings. One more interesting than the next - as history seemed to unfold itself. The old machinery that crushed the cane, extracting the sweet juice, the large vats where the water was boiled off, leaving the dark, sweet sugar, all seemed to tell their own stories. As they wandered around she spotted off to the side a building that they had not toured, and asked about it. "That building was one that I was hesitant to show you, since it refreshes memories of a darker time, but your curiosity is apparent, so see it you shall." As they walked toward the building, Robert explained that in its day, the plantation had been operated by slave labor. She had not given it much thought, but it became clear that in those days that was the norm. He explained that this building housed the slaves, with sections for the men and the women. As they entered the dark building she realized that it had been kept largely intact. The cots still lined the walls. She closed her eyes and wondered what it must have been like here three hundred years ago when this place had been packed with captive bodies, toiling against their will. They wandered further into the building and then back outside by a back entrance where she noticed still another, small building and inquired. "That is a place that you might find offensive" replied her guide. "It contains some of the more distasteful aspects of the slave trade, but at the same time I find it fascinating, so if you're not easily offended...." She answered by heading off in the direction of the building. When she tried to open the door she found it locked - with a modern deadbolt lock which she found curious. Robert produced a key and as they entered she was further surprised when a flipped a switch and the interior was illuminated by lights. She could not help wondering why anyone would bother to modernize the old building when it was apparently not being used for anything.
Once inside she noted that it was a well balanced mix of the old with the new. Furnishings and fixtures appeared much as they must have two hundred ears ago. At the same time lights and the subtle whisper of air conditioning reminded one that it was indeed the 21st century. Robert's words cut into her reverie as he explained the building.